He mea koʻikoʻi ka maikaʻi o ka waiwai i ka hoʻoholo ʻana i ka lōʻihi o ka spacer, hōʻoluʻolu, a me ka hoʻopiʻi nani. Hiki i nā mea ʻilihune ke alakaʻi i ka ʻaʻahu mua ʻana, nā hopena maʻi, a me ka nalowale o ka luster, ʻoiai nā mea kiʻekiʻe e hōʻoia i ka lōʻihi a mālama i ka nānā poli. Ma ka hoʻomaopopo ʻana i nā nuances o nā metala, nā pōhaku makamae, a me nā mea ʻē aʻe, hiki iā ʻoe ke hana i nā koho ʻike e hōʻike ana i ke ʻano pilikino a me nā noʻonoʻo pono.
Māhele 1: Ka Loiloi ʻana i nā Koho Metala no nā Spacers pōhaku hānau
ʻO nā metala ke kumu o ka hapa nui o nā spacers, e hoʻonui ana i ko lākou helehelena a me ka hana. Eia pehea e koho ai i ka metala pono:
Nā Metala Makamae: Manawa Mau Loa
-
gula (melemele, keokeo, rose):
Ana ʻia ma ka karat (k), me 24k he gula maʻemaʻe. No nā spacers, 14k a i ʻole 18k gula ke kūpono, e hāʻawi ana i kahi kaulike ma waena o ka lōʻihi a me ka palupalu. ʻAʻole ʻoi aku ka maʻalahi o ke gula karat kiʻekiʻe.
-
Manaʻo maikaʻi:
E ʻimi i nā hiʻohiʻona e like me 14k a i ʻole 585 (no ke gula keʻokeʻo 14k). E hōʻoia i ke gula keʻokeʻo i hoʻopaʻa ʻia i ka rhodium no ka hoʻohui ʻana i ka pale ʻana.
-
Pono:
Hypoallergenic, pale ʻino, a loaʻa i nā leo mahana (rose) a i ʻole ʻoluʻolu (keʻokeʻo).
Cons:
Koi nui; Hiki i ke gula rose ke mae i ka manawa inā hoʻohana ʻia nā ala haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa.
Kālā (Sterling and Fine):
-
Kālā Sterling:
ʻO kahi huila o 92.5% kālā a me 7.5% mau metala ʻē aʻe (pinepine keleawe), hiki ke kūʻai aku akā hiki ke hoʻopau ʻia.
-
Kālā Maikaʻi:
99.9% maʻemaʻe, palupalu a emi ʻole ka lōʻihi, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi no nā mea hoʻonaninani, ʻaʻole lawe ukana.
Manaʻo maikaʻi:
E koho i ka nickel-free sterling kala e pale aku i ka ma'i. Kūʻē ke kala i hoʻopaʻa ʻia ʻo Rhodium.
Platinum:
ʻOi aku ka lōʻihi a ʻoi aku ka lōʻihi ma mua o ke gula a i ʻole ke kālā, e paʻa ana i kona ʻulaʻula keʻokeʻo me ka ʻole o ka uhi ʻana.
-
Manaʻo maikaʻi:
Loaʻa nā hōʻailona o ka platinum maoli e like me Pt950, pono e pale i nā mea hoʻopau platinum, he mau metala kumu i uhi ʻia me ka platinum.
-
Pono:
Hypoallergenic, tarnish-kūpaʻa, a mālama i ka waiwai.
-
Cons:
ʻO ke kumukūʻai a me ke kaumaha, hiki ke hoʻopau i nā hoʻolālā maʻalahi.
Nā Metala ʻē aʻe: ʻO kēia manawa a me ka pili kālā
-
Titanium:
ʻO ka māmā a me ka ikaika, kūpono no ka nohona ola.
-
Manaʻo maikaʻi:
E koho i ka titanium aerospace-grade (Grade 1 a i ʻole 2) no ka biocompatibility a me ka pale ʻana i ka corrosion.
-
Pono:
Hypoallergenic, kūʻai aku, a hele mai i nā kala ʻeleʻele ma o ka anodization.
Cons:
He mea paʻakikī ke kūʻai ʻana a me ka hoʻololi ʻana, e kaupalena ana i ka hiki ke hoʻolālā.
Kila kohu ʻole:
Kū'ē i nā'ōpala a me nā'ōpala, kūpono no kaʻaʻahu o kēlā me kēia lā.
-
Manaʻo maikaʻi:
E koho i 316L kila no ka hōʻemi ʻana i ka nickel content a me nā pilikia maʻi.
-
Pono:
ʻO ke kumu kūʻai a me ka mālama haʻahaʻa.
Cons:
ʻO ka hiʻohiʻona liʻiliʻi i hoʻohālikelike ʻia me nā metala makamae.
Tungsten & Tantalum:
ʻIke ʻia no ko lākou ʻano paʻakikī, ʻaneʻane ʻaʻole hiki ke ʻohi.
-
Manaʻo maikaʻi:
E koho i ka tungsten paʻa a i ʻole ka tantalum e hōʻoia i ka hōʻoluʻolu a me ka lōʻihi.
-
Pono:
Ke nānā aku nei i kēia manawa, ʻoihana; mālama i ka poli no ka pau ʻole.
-
Cons:
ʻAʻole hiki ke hoʻololi i ka nui; hiki i ka manaʻo kaumaha ke hōʻoluʻolu i kekahi poʻe ʻaʻahu.
Mahele 2: Ka loiloi ʻana i ka maikaʻi o nā pōhaku makamae ma nā Spacers pōhaku hānau
He ʻokoʻa ka maikaʻi o ka pōhaku, a ʻo ke koho ʻana i ka pōhaku kūpono he mea koʻikoʻi ia no ka nani a me ka lōʻihi:
Kūlohelohe vs. Nā Pohaku pōhaku i hana ʻia e Lab
-
Nā Pōhaku Kūlohelohe:
Hoʻohui ʻia nā hoʻohui ʻokoʻa a me nā ʻano kala like ʻole. ʻO nā pōhaku kiʻekiʻe e like me nā rubi a me nā sapphires e mālama i ka waiwai kūʻai hou, akā hiki ke mālama ʻia (wela, hoʻopiha haki) e hoʻomaikaʻi i ka helehelena. Nā manaʻo pili pono e pili ana i nā hana mining.
-
Pono:
ʻO kaʻoiaʻiʻo a me keʻano.
Cons:
Nā lāʻau lapaʻau a me ka loaʻa pono.
Nā Pōhaku i Hana ʻia e Lab:
He like kemika me nā pōhaku maoli, me ka liʻiliʻi o nā hoʻokomo. Kūlike a me ke kumu kūʻai.
-
Pono:
ʻO ka lokahi, ke kumukūʻai, a me ka noʻonoʻo pono.
-
Cons:
ʻO ka nele o ka rarity a me ka nani kūlohelohe.
Pōhaku pōhaku ʻoʻoleʻa (Mohs Scale)
E hoʻohālikelike i ka paʻakikī me ka hana spacers:
-
Paʻakikī (7+ ma Mohs):
He kūpono no ka lole o kēlā me kēia lā, e like me ka sapphire (9), ruby (9), a me ka topaz (8).
-
Kaumaha (5-7):
He kūpono no ka ʻaʻahu i kekahi manawa, e like me ka peridot (6.5) a me ka emerald (7.5).
-
Malū (Ma lalo o 7):
He kūpono no ka ʻaʻahu pinepine ʻole a i ʻole nā pōhaku accent, e like me ka opal (5.56.5) a me ka momi (2.54.5).
-
Manaʻo maikaʻi:
No nā pōhaku makamae, e pale i ka hoʻopili ʻana me nā metala abrasive e like me ka tungsten e pale aku ai i ka haki ʻana.
Oki, Akaka, a me ke kala
-
ʻOki:
ʻO nā pōhaku i ʻoki maikaʻi ʻia e hoʻonui i ka nani. Hōʻalo i nā ʻoki pāpaʻu a hohonu paha e hoʻokaʻawale i ka mālamalama.
-
Maopopo:
ʻOi aku ka maikaʻi o nā pōhaku hoʻomaʻemaʻe maka (ʻaʻohe mea i ʻike ʻia), ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi no nā spacers me nā pōhaku liʻiliʻi.
-
kalakala:
ʻO ka lokahi ke kī. E makaʻala i nā waihoʻoluʻu ʻoi loa, e hōʻike ana paha i ka mālama ʻana i ka wai.
-
Manaʻo maikaʻi:
E noi i ka hōʻike ʻana i nā lāʻau mai nā mea kūʻai aku. ʻO nā pōhaku i mālama ʻole ʻia ke kauoha i nā kumukūʻai kiʻekiʻe.
Mahele 3: Nā Mea Hana ʻokoʻa no nā Spacers Unique
Hāʻawi nā mea hou i nā makemake a me nā ʻano kikoʻī:
Keramika
-
Pono:
ʻAʻole hiki i ka ʻōpala, māmā, a loaʻa i nā kala wiwo ʻole.
-
Cons:
ʻūlū; hiki ke pohā ma lalo o ka hopena.
Resin & Polymer
-
Pono:
ʻO ke ola, māmā, a me ke kumukūʻai. Kūpono no nā ʻano hoʻolālā maʻamau.
-
Cons:
Hiki i ka ʻeleʻele a i ʻole ka ʻoki ʻana i ka wā.
Laau & Iwi
-
Pono:
Hoʻopiʻi kūlohelohe, kaiaola; kaulana i nā ʻano bohemian.
-
Cons:
Pono e hoʻopaʻa ʻia e pale i ka pōʻino wai; ʻaʻole kūpono i nā aniau haʻahaʻa.
Mahele 4: Hoʻohālikelike i nā mea hana me ke ʻano o ke ola a me nā makemake
Pono kāu koho ʻana i nā mea waiwai me kāu pono kūpono a nani:
ʻIke ʻili
-
Koho Hypoallergenic:
Titanium, platinum, a i ʻole 14k+ gula no ka ʻili koʻikoʻi. E pale i nā metala i uhi ʻia i ka nickel.
Papa Hana
-
Nā Kaila Ola:
ʻO nā koho paʻa e like me ka tungsten, titanium, a i ʻole nā spacers sapphire-spaced.
-
ʻAʻahu ʻAʻahu:
ʻO nā momi maʻemaʻe a i ʻole nā pōhaku maoli i ʻoki ʻia emerald i nā hoʻonohonoho platinum.
Nā Manaʻo kālā
-
Splurge-Worthy:
Platinum a i ʻole nā mea hoʻokaʻawale daimana maoli no nā ʻāpana hoʻoilina.
-
Kūʻai-Pono:
Nā pōhaku i hana ʻia e Lab i ke gula 14k a i ʻole ke kila kila.
Nā Manaʻo Kaulike
-
Nā Koho Hoʻomau:
ʻO nā metala i hana hou ʻia, nā pōhaku i hana ʻia e ka lab, a i ʻole nā hōʻailona i hōʻoia ʻia e ka Responsible Jewelry Council (RJC).
Pehea e loiloi ai i ka maikaʻi ma mua o ke kūʻai ʻana
-
Nānā Hale Hōʻailona:
E hoʻohana i ka loupe mea kūʻai aku e hōʻoia i nā peʻa metala (e laʻa, 14k, Pt950).
-
Hoao no ka Magnetism:
ʻO ke gula maʻemaʻe a me ke kālā, ʻaʻole ia he magnet; ʻO ka huki hoʻokalakupua e hōʻike ana i nā mea hao kumu.
-
E loiloi i ka hoʻonohonoho:
Pono e hoʻopaʻa paʻa i ka pōhaku me ka ʻole o nā kihi ʻoi. Hāʻawi nā hoʻonohonoho Bezel i ka pale hou.
-
E nānā no ka hana hana:
E ʻimi no ka hoʻoheheʻe ʻana i ka maʻemaʻe, ka hoʻopau ʻana, a me ka alignment pōhaku makamae.
-
Noi palapala:
No nā pōhaku waiwai nui, e noi i ka palapala GIA a i ʻole AGS.
Hana ʻana i nā manaʻo noʻonoʻo a lōʻihi
ʻO ke koho ʻana i nā spacers birthstone e pili ana i ka maikaʻi o nā mea waiwai he waiwai i ka nani a me ka hana. Ma ka hoʻonohonoho mua ʻana i nā metala paʻa, nā pōhaku makamae i hoʻokumu ʻia, a me ka hana kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe, e hōʻoiaʻiʻo ʻoe i kāu mea nani e kū i ka hoʻāʻo o ka manawa a me nā ʻano. Inā ʻoe e koho i ka leʻaleʻa mau ʻole o ka platinum a i ʻole ka nani o ka titanium, e ʻae i kāu koho e hōʻike i ke kaulike o ke ʻano pilikino a me ka maikaʻi mau loa.
Ke kānalua ʻoe, e nīnau i kahi gemologist i hōʻoia ʻia a i ʻole mea kūʻai waiwai kaulana. Hiki i ko lākou ʻike ke kōkua iā ʻoe e hoʻokele i nā mea paʻakikī, e hoʻohuli i kahi spacer maʻalahi i waiwai aloha.