Nws yog txhua yam hais txog Suits

Thaum ntxov hauv zaj yeeb yaj kiab "Alfie," lub npe ua yeeb yam, tus neeg tsav tsheb limousine nyiam cov poj niam thiab cov khau tis, mus txog rau hauv nws lub txee dai khaub ncaws rau lub tsho liab. "Yog hais tias koj ooze txiv neej zoo li peb ib txhia ua," hais tias Alfie, ua si los ntawm Jude Law, hais rau lub koob yees duab nrog aplomb, "koj tsis muaj laj thawj ntshai liab." Hais lus zoo li ib tug txiv neej uas paub ib tug hankie los ntawm lub hnab tshos square. Nws tuaj yeem lees paub Susan Sarandon, thaum nws kho lub caj dab ntawm nws lub tsho cocktail, "Koj muaj cai ntseeg Chanel." Reprising lub 1966 Michael Caine lub luag hauj lwm thiab flaunting Martin Margiela suits thiab Ozwald Boateng tsho, Mr. Txoj cai yog "noog" bait nyob rau hauv cov yeeb yam (qhib Oct. 21). Nws kuj yog ib daim ntawv tshaj tawm rau cov qauv. "Nws sawv cev rau tiam tshiab ntawm cov tub hluas zoo nkauj," said Simon Doonan, tus thawj coj muaj tswv yim ntawm Barneys New York. Tus. Doonan, uas tau xeeb tub cov yeeb yaj kiab "Alfie" - qhov rais tshwm sim rau lub lim tiam no ntawm Barneys ntawm Madison Avenue thiab hauv Beverly Hills, tau kwv yees tias cov yeeb yaj kiab yuav ua rau muaj kev cuam tshuam rau cov txiv neej hnav khaub ncaws thiab tshwj xeeb ntawm txoj kev hnav khaub ncaws. . Nws tau hais tias "Muaj kev nyiam pom kev hnav raws li nruj me ntsis rau lub chaw ua haujlwm," nws hais. "Qhov no validates lawv rau ib tug dav dav cov neeg tuaj saib, leej twg yuav xav txog lawv li casual attire." Cov neeg tuaj saib yuav pom ib tug pom hauv Alfie lub txee dai khaub ncaws. Tej zaum qhov tsis txaus ntseeg, Alfie tau muab cov khaub ncaws tsis txaus ntseeg ntawm natty striped neckties, snug-fitting suits thiab Paul Smith khau ntawm tus neeg tsav tsheb meager cov nyiaj hli. Charles Shyer, tus thawj coj ua yeeb yaj kiab thiab tus tsim tawm, uas tau ua haujlwm nrog Mr. Txoj cai lij choj thiab Beatrix Aruna Pasztor, tus tsim khaub ncaws hnav, tsim kom muaj lub ntsej muag niaj hnub rau tus cwj pwm. "Tej zaum nws yog 40 thiab lub khw tsuas muaj 38, tab sis nws yuav nws txawm li cas los xij, vim nws yog Gucci," Mr. Shyer hais. "Tsuas yog ntawm nws, nws tsis zoo li me me. Nws zoo nkaus li fashiony. "Cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub, Qub lossis Tsis Yog Rau Linda Augsburg, tus neeg nyiam ntawm vintage costume hniav nyiaj hniav kub, qhov kev qhuas kawg yog tau hais tias lub brooch lossis lub nplhaib nws hnav zoo li ib yam dab tsi uas nws pog yuav muaj." Qhov ntawd yog qhov kuv. nrhiav nyob rau hauv ib daim, ib yam dab tsi uas qw 'cov cuab yeej cuab tam,' "Ms. Augsburg tau hais rau hnub Sunday thaum nws taug kev 26th Street flea khw hauv Manhattan. Tsuas yog cov khoom raug thawb rau lub caij no raws li qhov zoo tshaj plaws garnish rau Marc Jacobs tweed topper lossis Prada ntxaib teeb.Thaum mus yuav khoom rau brooches lossis cocktail rings - cov khoom vaj khoom tsev ntau yam lossis ib qho zoo nkauj wrought paste facsimile - Ms. Augsburg nyiam kev lag luam fleas, uas tseem yog qhov tseem ceeb rau vintage costume hniav nyiaj hniav kub, feem ntau ntawm ib feem ntawm tus nqi ntawm lub khw muag khoom reproductions. Ms. Augsburg muab nws cov kev pab cuam raws li ib tug sherpa nyob rau hauv ib lub sij hawm thaum brooches tshwj xeeb tshaj yog coveted raws li ib tug yam ntxwv ntawm lub eccentric debutante saib yog txhawb rau lub caij nplooj zeeg. Nrog lub qhov muag tau kawm los ntawm ntau xyoo ntawm kev sau, nws yog tus txawj ntse ntawm sifting cov deals los ntawm dross. "Saib qhov no," nws hais txog lub ntsej muag hneev-zoo li tus pin uas ntes nws lub qhov muag. "Nws qw 1950's." Qhov dub enamel tiav yog qhov muab. "Nws tsis tshua pom cov enamel ntawm ib qho khoom tam sim no." Nws pounced ntawm ib lub thawv xoob xoob, txhua tus studded nrog pear-puab crystals thiab rhinestone rondels. Hloov ib qho rau qhov flimsy nyiaj clasp ntawm feem ntau pearls, nws hais tias, thiab koj muaj ib daim uas zoo li ntau richer - ib tug ringer rau Van Cleef & Arpels.Ib teardrop pendant ntes tau nws lub qhov muag. Nws hais tias, "Lub siv lead ua tau teeb tsa rau ntawm lub ntsej muag, zoo li lub pob zeb diamond," nws hais tias, yog ib qho cim ntawm kev ua haujlwm zoo. "Tsis muaj leej twg yuav nplaum rau ntawm lub pob zeb zoo tiag tiag." Kev sim lub heft ntawm lub nplhaib kub-txheej txuas, nws pom tias qhov hnyav dua ntawm daim, qhov ntau dua nws yog hnub tim los ntawm 1940's lossis 50's, thaum costume jewelers txaus siab rau lawv tus kheej. replicating qhov zoo thiab xav ntawm qhov tiag. "Nrhiav ib lub cim rau tom qab," nws hais. Nrhiav vintage sau los ntawm Miriam Haskell lossis Kenneth Jay Lane ntawm lub khw muag khoom yuav tsis zoo li niaj hnub no. “Tab sis tom qab ntawd, koj yeej tsis paub.