Ka Makahiki Gilded

Aneane makapo ka nani.

ʻO ke kani ʻana i nā paia ʻulaʻula ʻulaʻula o kēia pahu liʻiliʻi o kahi hale kūʻai, he mau papa i piha i nā kaulahao gula mānoanoa, i hoʻohuli ʻia, i hoʻopaʻa ʻia, wili ʻia a pili. Hoʻopili ʻia me nā kulu waimaka nui a me nā puʻuwai e like me ka nui, he mau laʻana lākou o nā mea hoʻonani hoʻonani e hōʻike ana i ka maikaʻi o nā mea maikaʻi loa i nā kāhiko lole, mai Lanvin a me Mimi di N a hiki i Panetta, Chanel a me Dior.

I ka lā pule i hala iho nei, ua hoʻāʻo ʻo Jill Garland i kekahi o kāna mau mea kūʻai ponoʻī. ʻO kahi lei gula nui i hoʻonani ʻia me nā papa geometric i kāʻei i kona ʻāʻī lohi. Hoʻopili ʻia kahi poʻi hinged nani mai Kenneth Jay Lane i kona lima hema. He kumu hoʻohālike ola no kekahi o nā ʻāpana 300 āna i kūʻai aku ai mai kāna hale kūʻai naʻauao ʻo Beverly Hills, ʻo Garland ka mea nāna i hoʻokumu i ka V Vintage - kahi hale kūʻai e kūʻai aku ana i nā baubles o ka faux, akā ʻo ka mua, kauoha no kahi makahiki.

ʻOiai ʻaʻole ʻoi loa ka ulu ʻana o ka ʻoihana, ʻōlelo ʻo Garland e kūpaʻa mau ana ʻoiai ʻo ka hāʻule kūʻokoʻa o ka ʻāina. Me he mea lā, ke hoʻopili nei nā mea kāhiko me nā ʻano o ka lehulehu - e hoʻolilo i ke kālā liʻiliʻi, akā e hoʻolilo iā ia i nā mea kiʻekiʻe, lōʻihi, nostalgic, ʻokoʻa a me ka ʻōmaʻomaʻo - e like me ka hana hou. ʻO ia ka hopena kūlohelohe o ka emi ʻana o ke kūʻai ʻana i nā lole holo mua.

"ʻAʻole hoʻolilo nui nā kānaka i ke kālā i nā lole. Ua like nā mea a pau. Aia nā hoʻolālā āu i Saks ma H&M; i hoʻokahi pule ma hope a ma Forever 21 i hoʻokahi pule ma hope o kēlā, no laila ke hoʻohana nei ʻoe i kahi mea kūʻokoʻa e like me nā mea nani kahiko, hoʻopau ʻoe i kou nānā akā ʻaʻole ʻoe e manaʻo maʻamau, "wahi a Garland, ka mea kūʻai aku i nā ʻāpana i kau inoa ʻia (me kahi peʻa. ma ke kua) ma ke kumukūʻai $200 a $2,000.

No kēlā mau kumukūʻai, ʻaʻole gula nā mea a pau e ʻālohilohi ana i ka hale kūʻai o Garland. ʻO ka mea i ʻike ʻia he $900-per-auneke metala makamae ka hapa nui o ke kālā gilded. ʻO nā "daimana?" Rhinestones. ʻO ka "turquoise"? ʻO enamel kālua. ʻO nā kāhiko "ʻaʻahu" he ala maikaʻi wale nō ia e ʻōlelo ai "hoʻopunipuni." ʻAʻole i loaʻa nā metala makamae a i ʻole nā ​​​​pōhaku, ʻoiai ʻo ka hapa nui o ia mea he nani. ʻOi aku ka emi o ke kumukūʻai ma mua o ke kūʻai ʻana i nā mea nani (heluhelu: maoli) ma nā kumukūʻai kūʻai.

Ke hana ʻia nei nā kāhiko lole i kēia lā, ʻo ka hapa nui ma Kina, akā ʻo nā ʻāpana o kekahi ʻano waina i loaʻa ka waiwai - ʻo ia hoʻi nā lei, nā kūpeʻe lima, nā apo pepeiao, nā apo a me nā brooches i hana ʻia mai ka makahiki 1920 a hiki i ka makahiki 1970, i ka wā i hele mai ai nā mea hana ʻEulopa i United. ʻO nā moku'āina e hana i kā lākou kālepa. (ʻO ka "Antique" kahi huaʻōlelo i hoʻohana ʻia i kekahi manawa e wehewehe i nā baubles o nā au kahiko i hana ʻia mai nā metala a me nā pōhaku makamae maoli.) Hoʻohui ʻia e ka lima a hana ʻia me nā mea waiwai ʻole, ʻoi aku ka hoʻokolohua ʻana o nā ʻāpana o ka wā ma mua no ka mea nā mea hana. hiki ke lilo. ʻO kēlā hana hana a me ke ʻano kūʻokoʻa o ke ʻano i hana ai i nā inoa mea hoʻolālā e like me Miriam Haskell, Trifari a me Schiaparelli i mea wela a hōʻiliʻili ʻia mai ke ala holo a hiki i ka lumi ʻaʻahu - Haskell no ka peʻa tapestry, Trifari no ka nani, ʻo Schiaparelli no ka nani kala.

Akā e makaʻala ka mea kūʻai.

"Aneane he nui nā pae like ʻole o kēlā me kēia mea hana," wahi a Julia C. ʻO Carroll, he ʻohi ʻohi aʻe i kākau i ʻekolu mau puke, "Collecting Costume Jewelry 101," "202" a me ka "303" e hoʻokuʻu koke ʻia. "ʻO nā ʻāpana wale nō i ke kūlana maikaʻi i kiʻekiʻe loa i ka wā mua a loaʻa ke kālā maikaʻi i kēia lā." He aha ke kālā maikaʻi? ʻO nā tausani, ʻoiai ʻo ka hapa nui o nā mea ʻohi e ʻōlelo nei e hiki ke loaʻa nā ʻāpana leʻaleʻa a maikaʻi no ka liʻiliʻi o $25.

Wahi a Joyce Jonas, he mea loiloi a me ka mea loea i New York, ʻo nā pae o nā mea kūʻai waina e like me kēia: Aia nā mea kiʻekiʻe o ka laina "i hoʻolālā maikaʻi ʻia, hana nani, hana nani. He nani ko lākou kala a piha i ke ola, "wahi a Jonas. ʻO ka papa ʻelua i "kūʻai ʻia a ʻaʻole like me ka hoʻolālā ʻana." ʻO ka papa ʻekolu: "hoʻolei." No laila, no ka loaʻa ʻana o ka inoa o kahi ʻāpana e like me Haskell a i ʻole Trifari ʻaʻole i manaʻo ʻia he waiwai nui ia. ʻO nā mea e nānā ai: he pūlima, a i ʻole ke kaha, ma ke kua a me kahi ʻāpana i ke kūlana maikaʻi.

ʻO ka liʻiliʻi ʻo ia nā mea e nānā ai inā mālama ʻoe i nā mea nani vintage ma ke ʻano he hoʻopukapuka.

Ke hoʻonui nei, nui ka poʻe e hana. Ua hōʻike ʻia ka loaʻa ʻana o ka waiwai o nā mea kūʻai waina kiʻekiʻe i ka 10% a i ka 15%, ʻoiai he nui ka poʻe ma ke kula ke kānalua nei i ka manaʻo he wahi palekana ia no ke kālā ma mua o ka mākeke kūʻai.

"Ke piʻi aʻe nei ke kumukūʻai o ke gula a he mau daimana i kēia manawa, akā he ʻano kaomi wale nō ka waina," wahi a Jane Clarke, nona ka Morning Glory Antiques. & ʻO Jewelry, kahi hale kūʻai pūnaewele e hāʻawi i ka nui o ka mōʻaukala me kāna kukui maka rhinestone. "Manaʻo wau ua kūʻai ʻia nā mea nani vintage no ka hauʻoli. ʻO ka ʻoiaʻiʻo inā kūʻai maikaʻi ʻia, he waiwai waiwai maikaʻi loa ia, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi. Akā ʻo ka hauʻoli ka mea ia." E nīnau i kekahi mea hoʻokani pila waina, a e haʻi mai lākou iā ʻoe: ʻO ka hoʻohana ʻana iā ia e hōʻoluʻolu iā ʻoe. ʻAʻole wale ka ʻokoʻa o nā ʻāpana e loaʻa ai ka mahalo a me nā nīnau, akā aia kekahi manaʻo o ka mōʻaukala a me ka haʻaheo o ka hōʻike pilikino i hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia no ka pōmaikaʻi ʻoi aku ka ʻoi aku o nā ʻāpana iā lākou iho - e hōʻike ana i kāu mea i loaʻa.

Loaʻa iā ʻoe ka cleavage? E kanu i kahi brooch lily Boucher ma ka ʻaoʻao pono.

He mau maka nani? Hoʻohālikelike ka waihoʻoluʻu iā lākou me nā apo pepeiao pihi maka o ka Coro.

ʻO ka ʻāʻī e like me ka swan? E ho'āʻo i kahi Goldette kaulahao ʻekolu me ka cameo Victorian.

E like me nā mea a pau me ka lole, ʻo ia ka mea e hana ai iā ʻoe. Akā aia kekahi mau ʻano maʻamau.

ʻO ka mea wela i kēia manawa ʻo nā ʻāpana huaʻōlelo nostalgic. Ma V Vintage, ʻo ia hoʻi nā kūpeʻe lima nani. Ma Morning Glory Antiques, he mau laka. He mau ʻāpana ia ʻaʻole wale mai ka wā kahiko akā hoʻāla pū kekahi i ka mōʻaukala ponoʻī. A ʻo ia ka mea maʻamau: Kūʻai nā wahine i nā mea a lākou i ʻike ai i kā lākou makuahine ponoʻī e ʻaʻahu ana.

ʻO ia ke ʻano o ka poʻe boomers e kūʻai i nā ʻāpana waihoʻoluʻu a nani mai nā makahiki 40 a me nā ʻano ʻālohilohi a maʻalahi o nā makahiki 50, ʻoiai ʻo Xers a me Millennials e hoʻoikaika i nā ʻano kūlohelohe o nā makahiki 60 a me nā ʻano lāhui o nā makahiki 70.

"I ka wā e huhū ai ka poʻe, ke manaʻo ʻole lākou i nā mea e hana nei i ka honua, nānā lākou i hope i kahi manawa i manaʻo ai lākou i ka palekana, a no ka hapa nui o ka poʻe ʻo ko lākou wā kamaliʻi: He aha kaʻu i ʻike ai a puni iaʻu i ka manawa aʻu i manaʻo ai. ʻoi aku ka ʻoluʻolu ma mua o koʻu manaʻo i kēia lā?" wahi a Clarke. "ʻO ia ka mea i hanaʻia i ka wā o ke kaumaha."

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latimes.com/image E ʻike i nā mea nani kahiko, a me nā kiʻi kiʻi i hoʻonui ʻia e hōʻike ana i nā mea nani a pau ma kēia ʻāpana.