Iminyaka Eyintsha

Ubucwebe bucishe buphuphuthekise.

Izindonga ezipinki ngokuphaphathekile zaleli bhokisi elincane lesitolo ngamashalofu agcwele amaketanga egolide ajiyile, ashintshwayo, amafindo, alukiwe futhi axhunyiwe. Acwebe ngezinyembezi ezinde nezinhliziyo ezicishe zilingane, ziyizibonelo zokuhloba ngendlela exakile, ephezulu kakhulu emele okuhamba phambili kokuhle kakhulu kubucwebe bemvunulo, kusukela ku-Lanvin no-Mimi di N kuya ku-Panetta, i-Chanel ne-Dior.

Osukwini lwesonto lwakamuva, uJill Garland ubesampula okunye okuthengiswayo kwakhe. Umgexo omkhulu osagolide ohlotshiswe ngamapuleti ejiyomethri uhlanganise intamo yakhe ezacile. Ibhengele elihlotshiswe ngamahingiwe elivela ku-Kenneth Jay Lane libambe isihlakala sakhe sobunxele. Imodeli ephilayo yezinye zezingcezu ezingu-300 azithengisayo esitolo sakhe esihlakaniphile sase-Beverly Hills, u-Garland ungumsunguli we-V Vintage --isitolo esidayisa ama-baubles ama-faux, kodwa okokuqala, i-oda cishe unyaka.

Yize ibhizinisi lingadlondlobala ngempela, uGarland uthi lisahleli liqinile yize izwe liwa ngokukhululeka komnotho. Ubucwebe bemvunulo, kubonakala sengathi, buhambisana namathrendi amakhulu omphakathi -- ukusebenzisa imali encane, kodwa ukuyisebenzisela izinto zekhwalithi ephezulu, ezihlala isikhathi eside, ezingenangqondo, ezihlukile neziluhlaza -- njengasekusetshenzisweni kabusha. Kuphinde kube umphumela wemvelo wokuncipha kokuthengiswa kwezimpahla zokuqala.

“Abantu abachithi imali eningi bethenga izingubo. Konke kubukeka kufana noma kunjalo. Imiklamo onayo kwa-Saks iku-H&M; Ngemva kwesonto futhi ku-Forever 21 ngesonto ngemva kwalokho, ngakho-ke uma ufinyelela okuthile okuyingqayizivele njengobucwebe besikhathi esidlule, uqedela ukubukeka kwakho kodwa awuzizwa ujwayelekile," kusho u-Garland, othengisa kakhulu izingcezu ezisayiniwe (ezinesitembu. ngemuva) ku-$200 kuya ku-$2,000 ibanga lentengo.

Kulawo manani, konke okucwebezelayo esitolo sikaGarland ngokusobala akulona igolide. Okubonakala kuyinsimbi eyigugu engu-$900-ounce ngokuvamile isiliva elikhandiwe. "Amadayimane" acwebile? Ama-Rhinestones. I-"turquoise"? Koqweqwe lwawo olubhakiwe. Ubucwebe be-"Costume" buyindlela nje enesizotha yokuthi "umgunyathi." Ubucwebe obungenazo izinsimbi eziyigugu noma amatshe, nakuba okuningi kwakho, nokho, kukhazimulayo. Futhi kubiza kancane kunokuthenga inhlawulo (funda: yangempela) ubucwebe ngamanani okuthengisa.

Ubucwebe bezimpahla zokugqoka busakhiqizwa nanamuhla, ikakhulukazi e-China, kodwa izingcezu ze-vintage ezithile ezinenani -- ikakhulukazi imigexo, amasongo, amacici, izindandatho nama-brooches adalwe kusukela ngeminyaka yawo-1920s kuya ko-1970s, lapho izingcweti eziningi zaseYurophu ziza e-United. Amazwe ukuthi aqhube ukuhweba kwawo. (Igama elithi "Antique" ngezinye izikhathi lisetshenziselwa ukuchaza ama-bauble enkathi edlule enziwe ngezinsimbi namatshe ayigugu angempela.) Njengoba zihlanganiswe ngesandla futhi zenziwe ngezinto ezingabalulekile, izingcezu zenkathi yangaphambili zazivame ukuhlolwa kakhulu ngenxa yokuthi abazenzi bazo. angakwazi ukuba. Lobo buciko nomuzwa oyingqayizivele wesitayela wenze amagama abaklami anjengo-Miriam Haskell, Trifari kanye ne-Schiaparelli yizimpahla ezishisayo neziqoqekayo kusukela kumzila wezindiza wehlela egumbini lokubhalela -- i-Haskell yobuhlalu be-tapestry, i-Trifari yobuhle, i-Schiaparelli ngobunyoninco obunemibala.

Kodwa mthengi qaphela.

"Cishe wonke umenzi wayenamazinga amaningi ahlukene," kusho uJulia C. UCarroll, umqoqi oshisekayo obhale izincwadi ezintathu, "Ukuqoqa Ubucwebe Bezingubo 101," "202" kanye nezizophuma maduze "303." "Izingcezu kuphela ezazisesimweni esihle ekuqaleni ezazisezingeni eliphezulu futhi zibiza ngaleso sikhathi ezizothola imali enhle namuhla." Iyiphi imali enhle? Izinkulungwane, nakuba abaqoqi abaningi bethi izingcezu ezijabulisayo nezekhwalithi zingatholakala ngemali encane efika ku-$25.

NgokukaJoyce Jonas, uchwepheshe waseNew York ohlola ubucwebe nobucwebe, izigaba zobucwebe zakudala zihamba ngale ndlela: Kukhona izinto ezisezingeni eliphezulu “ezaklanywe ngendlela emangalisayo, zaklanywa kahle, zenziwa ngobuhle. Babenemibala emihle futhi begcwele impilo," kusho uJonas. Isigaba sesibili "sasibiza ngokusesilinganisweni hhayi njengoba siklanywe ngendlela ebabazekayo." Isigaba sesithathu: "ukulahla." Ngakho-ke, ngenxa yokuthi ucezu lunegama elifana ne-Haskell noma i-Trifari akusho ukuthi libiza imali eningi. Izinto okufanele uzibheke: isignesha, noma isitembu, ngemuva kanye nocezu olusesimweni esihle.

Okungenani lezo yizinto okufanele uzibheke uma unendaba nobucwebe bevini njengotshalomali.

Ngokukhula, abantu abaningi benza kanjalo. Ubucwebe bekhwalithi ephezulu bezinga eliphezulu bubonise izinzuzo zonyaka ezingaguquguquki ezingu-10% kuya ku-15% ngenani, nakuba abaningi emkhakheni benombono wokuthi iyindawo ephephile yemali kunemakethe yamasheya.

"Intengo yegolide iyehla yenyuka futhi amadayimane asengamantongomane njengamanje, kodwa i-vintage imane nje ngokuchofoza nje," kusho uJane Clarke, umnikazi weMorning Glory Antiques. & Ubucwebe, isitolo sezitolo esiku-inthanethi esinikeza umlando omningi kanye noswidi wamehlo we-rhinestone. “Ngicabanga ukuthi ubucwebe bakudala buthengwa ngenjabulo yakhona. Iqiniso lokuthi uma kuthengwa kahle, kube ukutshalwa kwezimali okuhle komlando, lokho kuhlanganisa. Kodwa intokozo iyikho." Buza noma yimuphi umlandeli wobucwebe bevini, bazokutshela: Ukuwugqoka kukwenza uzizwe ukhethekile. Akukhona nje kuphela ukuthi izingcezu zihlukile kangangokuthi ziqoqa izincomo nemibuzo, kodwa futhi kukhona umuzwa womlando kanye nokuziqhenya kokuziveza okungase kusetshenziswe ngenzuzo endala kakhulu kunezingcezu ngokwazo -- ukubukisa ngalokho onakho.

Unayo i-cleavage? Tshala i-Boucher lily brooch eduze kwayo.

Unamehlo amahle? Umbala uwafanise namacici enkinobho yobuso besikhova se-Coro.

Intamo njengedada? Zama i-Goldette ene-triple chain ene-Victorian cameo.

Njenganoma yini enemfashini, iyinoma yini ekusebenzelayo. Kodwa kukhona futhi izitayela ezijwayelekile.

Okushisayo njengamanje izingcezu zezitatimende ezimibalabala, ezingenangqondo. Ku-V Vintage, lokho kusho amasongo e-charm. KwaMorning Glory Antiques, izingidi. Ziyizingcezu ezingaveli kuphela esikhathini esedlule kodwa ezivusa nomlando womuntu. Futhi lokho kuvame ukuba yisizukulwane: Abesifazane bathenga lokho ababone kugqokwe omama babo.

Lokho kusho ukuthi ama-boomers athambekele ekuthengeni izingcezu ezimibalabala, eziwubukhazikhazi kusukela ku-'40s kanye nezitayela ezikhazimulayo, ezilula zama-'50s, kuyilapho u-Xers kanye ne-Millennials bedonsela ekumomeni okuphilayo kwama-'60s nezitayela zobuhlanga zama-'70s.

“Lapho abantu becasukile, lapho bezizwa bengakhululekile ngalokho okwenzeka emhlabeni, babheka emuva esikhathini lapho babezizwa belondekile, futhi kubantu abaningi kwakuwubuntwana babo: Yini engangiyibona eduze kwami ​​ngesikhathi lapho ngizizwa ngivikelekile. ngikhululeke kakhulu kunalokho engikuzwa namuhla?" Kusho uClarke. "Kwenzeke okufanayo ngesikhathi sokucindezeleka."

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latimes.com/image Bona ubucwebe obengeziwe bakudala, kanye namagalari ezithombe anwetshiwe afaka bonke ubucwebe kulesi sigaba.