M'badwo Wokhazikika

Zodzikongoletsera zatsala pang'ono kuchititsa khungu.

Makoma apinki otumbululuka a kabokosi kakang'ono ka miyala yamtengo wapatali ka shopu ndi mashelefu odzaza ndi maunyolo agolide omwe amakhala, mosinthana, amapindika, oluka komanso olumikizana. Zovala zonyezimira zokhala ndi misozi yokulirapo komanso mitima yokulirapo mpaka kukula, ndi zitsanzo za zokongoletsera zonyansa, zapamwamba zomwe zimayimira zabwino kwambiri pazovala zodzikongoletsera, kuchokera ku Lanvin ndi Mimi di N kupita ku Panetta, Chanel ndi Dior.

Patsiku la sabata laposachedwa, Jill Garland anali kuyesa zina mwazamalonda ake. Mkanda wake wowondayo unakhala ndi mkanda waukulu wagolide wokongoletsedwa ndi mbale za geometric. Bangle yokongola yokongola yochokera kwa Kenneth Jay Lane idagwira dzanja lake lakumanzere. Mtundu wamitundu ina mwa zidutswa 300 zomwe amagulitsa kuchokera ku shopu yake yanzeru ya Beverly Hills, Garland ndiye woyambitsa nawo V Vintage - malo ogulitsira omwe akhala akugulitsa mbava zowoneka bwino za zinthuzo, koma choyamba, kuyitanitsa kwa chaka chimodzi.

Ngakhale bizinesi siyikuyenda bwino, Garland akuti idakhazikikabe ngakhale dziko likugwa mwaulere. Zodzikongoletsera zodzikongoletsera, zikuwoneka, zikuphatikizana ndi zochitika zazikulu za anthu -- kugwiritsa ntchito ndalama zochepa, koma kuzigwiritsa ntchito pazinthu zapamwamba, zokhalitsa, zowoneka bwino, zapadera komanso zobiriwira - monga zobwezeretsedwanso. Zimakhalanso zotsatira za chilengedwe za kuchepa kwa malonda a zovala zoyamba.

“Anthu sawononga ndalama zambiri kugula zovala. Chilichonse chikuwoneka chimodzimodzi. Mapangidwe omwe muli nawo ku Saks ali ku H&M; patatha sabata limodzi ndi Forever 21 sabata pambuyo pake, ndiye mukamapeza chinthu chapadera ngati zodzikongoletsera zakale, mumamaliza mawonekedwe anu koma simukumva kukhala wamba," adatero Garland, yemwe amagulitsa zidutswa zosainidwa (zokhala ndi sitampu). kumbuyo) mumtengo wa $200 mpaka $2,000.

Pamitengo imeneyo, zonse zomwe zimanyezimira mu shopu ya Garland momveka bwino si golide. Zomwe zimawoneka ngati chitsulo chamtengo wapatali cha $900-per-ounce nthawi zambiri chimakhala siliva wonyezimira. "diamondi" zonyezimira? Ma Rhinestones. Kodi "turquoise"? Enamel yophika. Zodzikongoletsera "zovala" ndi njira yaulemu yoti "zabodza." Ndi zodzikongoletsera zomwe zilibe zitsulo zamtengo wapatali kapena miyala, ngakhale zambiri zimakhala, zonyezimira. Ndiwotsika mtengo kwambiri kuposa kugula zabwino (werengani: zenizeni) zodzikongoletsera pamitengo yogulitsa.

Zodzikongoletsera zodzikongoletsera zimapangidwabe mpaka pano, makamaka ku China, koma ndi zidutswa za mpesa zomwe zili ndi mtengo wake - makamaka mikanda, zibangili, ndolo, mphete ndi ma brooches zomwe zidapangidwa kuyambira 1920s mpaka 1970s, pomwe amisiri ambiri aku Europe adabwera ku United States. Mayiko kuti azichita malonda awo. ("Antique" ndi mawu omwe nthawi zina amagwiritsidwa ntchito ponena za mikwingwirima yakalekale yopangidwa kuchokera ku zitsulo zamtengo wapatali ndi miyala.) Zosonkhanitsidwa ndi manja ndi kupangidwa ndi zinthu zosakhala zamtengo wapatali, zidutswa za nyengo zakale kaŵirikaŵiri zinali zoyesera kwambiri chifukwa chakuti kuzipanga. angakwanitse kukhala. Umisiri waluso komanso mawonekedwe apadera apanga mayina opanga monga Miriam Haskell, Trifari ndi Schiaparelli kukhala zinthu zotentha komanso zophatikizika kuchokera panjira yopita kuchipinda chochezera - Haskell wamikanda yokongoletsera, Trifari for the legance, Schiaparelli pakusokonekera kokongola.

Koma wogula chenjerani.

"Pafupifupi wopanga aliyense anali ndi magawo osiyanasiyana," adatero Julia C. Carroll, wosonkhanitsa wakhama yemwe adalemba mabuku atatu, "Kusonkhanitsa Zodzikongoletsera Zovala 101," "202" ndi "303" yomwe idzatulutsidwe posachedwa. "Zidutswa zokhazokha zomwe poyamba zinali zapamwamba kwambiri komanso zodula panthawiyo zidzapeza ndalama zabwino lero." Ndi ndalama zabwino zotani? Zikwi, ngakhale osonkhanitsa ambiri amati zidutswa zosangalatsa komanso zabwino zimatha kukhala ndi $25.

Malinga ndi kunena kwa Joyce Jonas, katswiri woona za miyala yamtengo wapatali ndi zodzikongoletsera wa ku New York, magulu a miyala yamtengo wapatali ya mpesa amapita motere: Pali zinthu zapamwamba kwambiri zomwe "zinapangidwa modabwitsa, zopangidwa mwaluso, zopangidwa mokongola. Anali ndi maonekedwe abwino ndipo anali odzaza ndi moyo, "anatero Jonas. Gawo lachiwiri "linali lamtengo wapatali osati lopangidwa mochititsa chidwi." Gawo lachitatu: "kutaya." Chifukwa chake, chifukwa chidutswa chili ndi dzina ngati Haskell kapena Trifari sizitanthauza kuti ndiyofunika ndalama zambiri. Zinthu zoyenera kuyang'ana: siginecha, kapena sitampu, kumbuyo ndi chidutswa chomwe chili bwino.

Osachepera ndizo zinthu zomwe muyenera kuziyang'ana ngati mumasamala za zodzikongoletsera zakale ngati ndalama.

Mochulukirachulukira, anthu ambiri amatero. Zodzikongoletsera zamtengo wapatali zamtengo wapatali zawonetsa phindu lokhazikika la 10% mpaka 15% pachaka, ngakhale ambiri omwe ali m'mundamo ali ndi chidwi choganiza kuti ndi malo otetezeka a ndalama kuposa msika wogulitsa.

"Mtengo wa golidi ukukwera ndi kutsika ndipo diamondi ndi mtedza pakali pano, koma mpesa umangokhalira kudina," atero Jane Clarke, mwini wa Morning Glory Antiques. & Zodzikongoletsera, malo ogulitsira pa intaneti omwe amapereka mbiri yakale komanso maswiti ake amaso a rhinestone. "Ndikuganiza kuti zodzikongoletsera zakale zimagulidwa chifukwa cha chisangalalo chake. Mfundo yakuti ngati idagulidwa bwino, yakhala ndalama zabwino kwambiri za mbiri yakale, ndizowonjezera. Koma chisangalalo ndi chomwe chili." Funsani aliyense wokonda zodzikongoletsera za mpesa, ndipo angakuuzeni: Kuvala kumakupangitsani kumva kuti ndinu apadera. Sikuti zidutswazo ndizopadera kwambiri zomwe zimapindula ndi kuyamikiridwa ndi mafunso, komanso palinso mbiri yakale komanso kunyada kwa kudziwonetsera komwe kungagwiritsidwe ntchito phindu lakale kwambiri kuposa zidutswa zomwezo - kuwonetsa zomwe muli nazo.

Muli ndi cleavage? Bzalani kakombo kakombo ka Boucher pambali pake.

Muli ndi maso okongola? Mtundu ugwirizane nawo ndi ndolo za Coro owl-face button.

Khosi ngati chinsalu? Yesani Goldette yamitundu itatu yokhala ndi Victorian cameo.

Monga chirichonse ndi mafashoni, ndi chirichonse chimene chimakuchitirani inu. Koma palinso zochitika wamba.

Zomwe zili zotentha pakali pano ndi zilembo zokongola komanso zosasangalatsa. Ku V Vintage, izi zikutanthauza zibangili zachithumwa. Ku Morning Glory Antiques, ndi maloketi. Ndi zidutswa zomwe sizimangochokera zakale komanso zimadzutsa mbiri yanu. Ndipo nthawi zambiri zimakhala zamtundu: Azimayi amagula zomwe adawona amayi awo atavala.

Izi zikutanthauza kuti ma boomers amakonda kugula zidutswa zokongola, zokongola kuyambira m'ma 40s ndi zonyezimira, masitayelo osavuta a m'ma 50s, pomwe Xers ndi Millennials amakokera ku mawonekedwe a organic a m'ma 60s ndi mitundu yamitundu ya m'ma 70s.

“Anthu akakhumudwa, akamakhumudwa ndi zimene zikuchitika m’dzikoli, amakumbukira nthawi imene ankadziona kuti ndi wotetezeka, ndipo kwa anthu ambiri unali ubwana wawo: Kodi ndinkaona chiyani pondizungulira pa nthawi imene ndinkadziona kuti ndine wotetezeka? womasuka kuposa momwe ndikumvera lero?" anatero Clarke. "Zimenezinso zinachitika panthawi ya Kuvutika maganizo."

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latimes.com/image Onani zodzikongoletsera zambiri zakale, kuphatikiza zithunzi zowonjezera zokhala ndi zodzikongoletsera zonse zomwe zili mgawoli.