IXesha Eliqhelekileyo

Ubucwebe buphantse bube yimfama.

Ukukhala kweendonga ezipinki eziluthuthu zale bhokisi incinci yamatye anqabileyo evenkileni ziishelufu ezizele ngamatyathanga egolide ajiyileyo athi, ajike, amaqhina, alukwe kwaye aqhagamshelwe. Bejeweled kunye neenyembezi ezikhule kakhulu kunye neentliziyo ezinobungakanani obuphantse ukuba bulingane, bayimizekelo yezinto zokuhombisa ezigqithisileyo, ezingaphezulu-phezulu ezimele ezona zibalaseleyo kwizacholo zesinxibo, ukusuka kuLanvin kunye noMimi di N ukuya kwiPanetta, iChanel kunye neDior.

Kusuku lwakutsha nje evekini, uJill Garland wayethatha iisampulu zezinye zezinto zakhe zokuthengisa. Intsimbi yomqala enkulu yegolide ehonjiswe ngeepleyiti zejiyometri ezihombisa intamo yakhe ebhityileyo. Ibhengele ehonjisiweyo ehonjisiweyo evela kuKenneth Jay Lane ibambe isihlahla sakhe sasekhohlo. Imodeli ephilayo kwezinye zeziqwenga ezingama-300 azithengisayo kwivenkile yakhe elumkileyo yaseBeverly Hills, uGarland ngumseki weV Vintage-indawo ethengisa izinto ezithengiswayo ebithengisa iibhawuli ze-bedazzled ze-faux, kodwa kuqala, iodolo malunga nonyaka.

Nangona ishishini lingaqhubi ncam, uGarland uthi lihleli lizinzile ngaphandle kokuwa ngokukhululekileyo kwezoqoqosho. Ubucwebe bempahla, kubonakala ngathi, bunxibelelene neendlela ezinkulu zoluntu--ukuchitha imali encinci, kodwa uyichithe kwizinto ezikumgangatho ophezulu, ezihlala ixesha elide, ezingenangqondo, ezizodwa kunye neziluhlaza--njengoko ziphinda zisetyenziswe. Ikwasisiphumo sendalo sokuncipha kwentengiso yempahla yokuqala.

“Abantu abachithi mali ininzi kwiimpahla. Yonke into ibonakala ifana kunjalo. Uyilo onalo eSaks lukwaH&M; kwiveki kamva nakwi-Forever 21 kwiveki emva koko, ke xa ufikelela ngento eyodwa efana nobucwebe bexesha elidlulileyo, ugqibezela inkangeleko yakho kodwa awuziva uyinto eqhelekileyo, utshilo uGarland, othengisa ubukhulu becala iziqwenga ezisayiniweyo (enesitampu. ngasemva) kwi $200 ukuya kwi $2,000 uluhlu lwamaxabiso.

Kuloo maxabiso, yonke into emenyezelayo kwivenkile kaGarland ngokucacileyo ayiyogolide. Into ebonakala ngathi yi-900-per-ounce yentsimbi exabisekileyo ubukhulu becala yisilivere ehonjisiweyo. "Iidayimani" ezikhazimlayo? Amatye eRhinestones. I "turquoise"? I-enamel yokubhaka. Ubucwebe "Isinxibo" yindlela nje ethobekileyo yokuthi "inkohliso." Bubucwebe obungenazo iintsimbi ezixabisekileyo okanye amatye, nangona uninzi lwayo, nangona kunjalo, luyakhazimla. Kukwabiza ngaphantsi kakhulu kunokuthenga ifayini (funda: yokwenene) izacholo ngamaxabiso okuthengisa.

Ubucwebe bempahla zisaveliswa nanamhla, ubukhulu becala eTshayina, kodwa ziziqwenga zediliya ezithile ezinexabiso- ngakumbi iintsimbi zomqala, izacholo, amacici, imisesane kunye neebhrotshi ezenziwe ukusukela ngoo-1920 ukuya kowe-1970, xa uninzi lwamagcisa aseYurophu eza eUnited. Amazwe ukuba enze urhwebo lwawo. (Igama elithi "Antique" ligama elidla ngokusetyenziswa ukuchaza amaqhekeza amandulo enziwe ngeentsimbi ezixabisekileyo namatye okwenene.) Edityaniswe ngesandla aze enziwe ngezinto ezingezizo izinto ezixabisekileyo, amaqhekeza exesha langaphambili ayedla ngokuvavanywa ngakumbi ngenxa yokuba abenzi bawo. unokukwazi ukuba. Obo bugcisa kunye nengqiqo eyodwa yesitayile yenze amagama abayili abanje ngo-Miriam Haskell, iTrifari kunye neSchiaparelli zishushu kwaye ziqokelelwa iimpahla ezisuka kumgaqo weenqwelo-moya ukuya kwigumbi lokunxiba--Haskell ye-tapestry beading, i-Trifari yobuhle, iSchiaparelli ngobuchube obunemibala.

Kodwa umthengi lumka.

Phantse wonke umenzi wayenamanqanaba amaninzi awahlukeneyo, utshilo uJulia C. UCarroll, umqokeleli okhutheleyo obhale iincwadi ezintathu, "Ukuqokelela i-Costume Jewelry 101," "202" kunye nokukhululwa ngokukhawuleza "303." "Ziziqwenga kuphela ezikwimeko entle ezaziphezulu kakhulu kwaye zibiza ngelo xesha ziya kufumana imali entle namhlanje." Yiyiphi imali elungileyo? Amawaka, nangona uninzi lwabaqokeleli luthi amaqhekeza amnandi kunye nomgangatho anokubakho ngexabiso eliphantsi njenge-25 yeedola.

NgokukaJoyce Jonas, ingcali yovavanyo kunye nobucwebe obusekwe eNew York, amanqanaba eentsimbi zakudala ahamba ngolu hlobo: Kukho izinto zodidi oluphezulu “ezaziyilwe ngendlela engaqhelekanga, ziyilwe kakuhle, zenziwe ngobuhle. Babenombala omangalisayo kwaye bezele bubomi,” utshilo uJonas. Inqanaba lesibini "lalinexabiso eliphakathi kwaye alizange liyilwe ngendlela enomdla." Inqanaba lesithathu: "ukulahla." Ke, ngenxa yokuba isiqwenga sinegama elinje ngeHaskell okanye i-Trifari ayithethi ukuba ixabisa yonke into. Izinto ekufuneka uzijonge: utyikityo, okanye isitampu ngasemva kunye neqhekeza elikwimeko entle.

Ubuncinci ezo zizinto ekufuneka uzijonge ukuba ukhathalele ubucwebe bevintage njengotyalo-mali.

Ngokwandayo, abantu abaninzi benjenjalo. Ubucwebe obukwizinga eliphezulu lobudala bubonise i-10% ukuya kwi-15% yeenzuzo zonyaka ngexabiso, nangona abaninzi ebaleni bekholelwa ukuba yindawo ekhuselekileyo yemali kune-stock market.

“Ixabiso legolide liyehla linyuka kwaye idayimani ngamandongomane ngoku, kodwa ivintage yindlela nje yokucofa,” utshilo uJane Clarke, umnini weMorning Glory Antiques. & Ubucwebe, i-boutique ye-intanethi enikezela ngembali eninzi kunye ne-rhinestone eye candy. “Ndicinga ukuba ubucwebe bakudala buthengwa ngenxa yolonwabo. Inyaniso yokuba ukuba ithengwe kakuhle, ibe yimbali entle yotyalo-mali, oko kukudibanisa. Kodwa uvuyo yilonto oluyiyo." Buza nawuphi na umlandeli wobucwebe bezacholo zakudala, kwaye baya kukuxelela: Ukunxiba kukwenza uzive ukhethekile. Ayizizo kuphela iziqwenga ezikhethekileyo kangangokuba ziqokelela izincomo kunye nemibuzo, kodwa kukwakho noluvo lwembali kunye neqhayiya lokuzibonakalisa elingasetyenziselwa inzuzo ekudala kakhulu kuneziqwenga ngokwazo-- ukuqhayisa ngento onayo.

Unayo i-cleavage? Tyala iBoucher lily brooch kanye ecaleni kwayo.

Unamehlo amahle? Umbala uzinxulumanise neperi yamacici eqhosha lesikhova seCoro.

Intamo njengedada? Zama i-triple-chain Goldette ene-Victorian cameo.

Njengayo nantoni na ekwifashoni, yiyo nantoni na ekusebenzelayo. Kodwa kukwakho nemikhwa eqhelekileyo.

Yintoni eshushu ngoku zimibalabala, iziqwenga zeengxelo ezingezizo. Kwi-V Vintage, oko kuthetha i-charm bracelets. Kwi-Morning Glory Antiques, ziilokhi. Ziingceba ezingaveli kuphela kwixesha elidlulileyo kodwa zivusa nembali yomntu. Kwaye loo nto ihlala isenziwa: Abasetyhini bathenga into ababone benxibe oomama babo.

Loo nto ithetha ukuba abaxhamli badla ngokuthenga amaqhekeza amibalabala, ahonjisiweyo ukusuka kwi-'40s kunye nokumenyezela, izimbo ezilula zee'50s, ngelixa i-Xers kunye neMillennials zitsalela kwimilo ephilayo yee-'60s kunye nezimbo zobuhlanga ze-'70s.

“Xa abantu becaphukile, xa beziva bengakhululekanga ngoko kwenzekayo ehlabathini, bakhangela emva kwixesha laxa babeziva benqabisekile, yaye kwinkoliso yabantu yayibubuntwana babo: Yintoni endayibonayo kum ngelo xesha xa ndandiziva ndikhuselekile. ndikhululeke ngakumbi kunokuba ndiziva namhlanje?" watsho uClarke. "Kwaye kwenzeka into efanayo ngexesha loxinzelelo."

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latimes.com/image Bona izacholo ezininzi zakudala, kunye neegalari zefoto ezandisiweyo ezibonisa zonke izacholo kweli candelo.