Indlela Yokwenza Ubucwebe Bemfashini

Ibhalwe ngu-PAMELA G. HOLLIEDEC. 24, 1984 Lena inguqulo eyenziwe ngedijithali ye-athikili evela kungobo yomlando yokuphrinta ye-Times, ngaphambi kokuqala kokushicilelwa ku-inthanethi ngo-1996. Ukuze kulondolozwe lezi zihloko njengoba zazivele ekuqaleni, i-Times ayizishintshi, azihleli noma azibuyekezi. Kwesinye isikhathi inqubo yokwenza idijithali yethula amaphutha okuloba noma ezinye izinkinga. Sicela uthumele imibiko yezinkinga ezinjalo ku. Phenya amakhasi anoma yimuphi umagazini wemfashini. Izingubo ze-slinky, amajazi kanye namabhantshi amadoda angama-androgynous, imiklamo elula futhi eyinkimbinkimbi kunazo zonke iboniswa ngobucwebe obukhulu, obumangalisayo, amakhilogremu namakhilogremu ayo.Lokhu akuyona i-junk, hhayi ngamathegi amanani ezinkulungwane zamaRandi. Lobu ubucwebe bemvunulo obusezingeni eliphezulu obaziwa ngokuthi ubucwebe bemfashini. Abanye bakubiza ngokuthi unama uma kuyikhophi ebizayo, noma ubucwebe be-faux lapho ubucwebe ngokusobala buwumgunyathi.Ikhwalithi kanye nentengo yalaba bakhohlisi abanobucwebe ibabeka ekilasini elikude namabhengela egolide mbumbulu njengoba ikristalu isuka engilazini esikiwe. Ubucwebe be-Faux bangama-bauble asesitayeleni njengalawo aseqoqweni elisha elithi ''Dynasty''. Lelo qoqo, eligqugquzelwe u-Krystle Carrington ocebile nomuhle ochungechungeni lwethelevishini ethi ''Dynasty'', lihlanganisa ikhola egandayiwe yekristalu engu-$390 kanye nesongo esifanayo nge-$190.''Ubucwebe bemfashini bufike bababona phakathi neminyaka emithathu edlule,'' kusho uShari Hymowitz, okhulumela i-Trifari, inkampani engaphansi kobucwebe bezingubo zeHallmark Cards Inc. ''Sekuyingxenye ebalulekile yebhizinisi.''AdvertisementBoasting Healthier MarginsUkubaluleka kukhule ngokwengxenye ngoba ubucwebe bemfashini buqhosha ngamathegi amanani aphezulu kanye namamajini anempilo kunezinye izingxenye zemakethe yobucwebe bemvunulo. Nakuba isilinganiso samacici obucwebe bemvunulo singabiza phakathi kwama-$5 nama-$25, amacici obucwebe bemfashini angase asukela ku-$50 kuya ku-$150. UkukhangisaAzikho izilinganiso zobukhulu bendawo yobucwebe bemfashini emakethe. Kodwa imboni yobucwebe ebiza izigidi ezingu-800 zamaRandi ikweleta impilo yayo kulo nyaka ngenxa yokuduma kwamabhulukwe acwebezelayo, iziqeshana zezicathulo, izikhonkwane zamalapel, amacici, imigexo nezigqoko zezigqoko.''Imakethe jikelele ibilokhu idlondlobala ezinyangeni ezingu-18 ezedlule, kodwa imfashini ukuthengiswa kobucwebe kwezinye izindawo kwenyuke ngamaphesenti angu-150 kusukela ngale kwekwindla,'' kusho uJane Evans, umongameli weMonet Jewelers, ophikweni lweGeneral Mills. I-Monet, umkhiqizi wobucwebe wezimvunulo omkhulu kunabo bonke esizweni, inesabelo esingamaphesenti angu-35 sokuthengiswa kobucwebe bemfashini ezitolo ezikhethekile kanye nemali elinganiselwa ezigidini ezingu-100 zamaRandi ngonyaka. imiklamo ebiza kakhulu. Umphumela ube ukwanda ekuthengisweni kobucwebe bemfashini.Isibindi Sokuqashelwa Ubucwebe bemfashini bunwetshiwe busuka cishe kumaphesenti angu-5 emakethe yobucwebe bezingubo ukuya kumaphesenti angu-17, kusho u-Miss Evans. ''Laba ngabesifazane abanesibindi sokunakwa,'' esho ngamakhasimende amasha.Enye into ebalulekile ebhizinisini ukubonakala okuphezulu kobucwebe bemfashini. Ngisho nabesifazane abathathwa njengabanesitayela kakhulu bayavuma ukuthi bagqoka imigunyathi yasemfashinini.''Abesifazane abacebile abavamile ukuphinda bagqoke ubucwebe bangempela,'' kusho uKenneth Jay Lane, umklami wobucwebe waseNew York othengisa ubucwebe obungamanga obubiza u-$2,000 ngosuku ngempahla yakhe. Isitolo esingamamitha-skwele ayi-135 eTrump Tower eManhattan. I-Lane iklama amakhophi obucwebe bangempela, kodwa yenza nokwangempela kwangaphandle. Waklama umgexo ka-$250 wobuhlalu obumnyama obunomhlobiso wengwe enamabala amhlophe owawugqokwe ngu-Nancy Reagan.Isikhangiso''Wawugqoka ne-Bill Blass,'' esho. ''Nasemcimbini omunye wesifazane ubenomgexo ofanayo. Ngizenze eziningi ngayo yonke imibala.''Sicela uqinisekise ukuthi awulona irobhothi ngokuchofoza ibhokisi.Ikheli le-imeyili elingavumelekile. Sicela ufake kabusha.Kufanele ukhethe incwadi yezindaba ozoyibhalisela.Buka zonke izincwadi zezindaba ze-New York Times.Izindleko Eziphansi UkunethezekaIphuzu lobucwebe benkohliso liwubukhazikhazi ngezindleko eziphansi. UMnu. ULane, oseneminyaka engu-22 eklama amakhophi, ukholelwa ukuthi abesifazane abaningi bafuna ukuba nezicucu ezifana nezabesifazane abazithandayo. Phakathi kwamakhophi akhe adumile kukhona ikhophi yomugqa womugqa ka-$250 yerubi, umgexo we-emerald nesafire ka-Jacqueline Onassis.Amagugu mbumbulu awamasha. Sekuyisikhathi eside abesifazane abacebile benziwe amakhophi amagugu abo ukuze kuvinjwe amasela. Okusha mayelana nobucwebe mbumbulu ukuthi abesifazane abasezingeni eliphakathi, ikakhulukazi labo abake bagqoka ubucwebe bangempela, manje sebegqoke izinto mbumbulu ngenjabulo.''Umthengi ofunde kangcono akasabuki ubucwebe bemfashini njengobungena esikhundleni sobucwebe bangempela angabuthatha. 'ukukwazi,'' kusho uNkk. I-Hymowitz e-Trifari, omunye wabenzi bobucwebe bezingubo ezintathu abakhulu. ''Ngakho-ke akunandaba ukuthi kubukeka kungokoqobo noma cha.''''Kancane kancane, imigqa phakathi kobucwebe obuhle nobucwebe bemfashini iye yahlanganiswa,'' kusho uGerry Hansen, umongameli woMkhandlu Wezimboni Zobucwebe eNew York. Phambilini, ''abesifazane ababegqoka ubucwebe obuhle'' - ubucwebe begolide namatshe ayigugu - ''babengagqoki ubucwebe bemvunulo.''''Kodwa manje ubucwebe bungaphezu kwezinto ezisetshenziswayo,'' esho. ''Yimfashini. Lolu wuphawu olubalulekile. Manje sibona abesifazane begqoke kokubili ubucwebe obuhle kanye nemfashini. Baze baxube izinto.'' Akukhona nje kuphela ukuthi abasiki bengqephu abasize ubucwebe bemfashini ngokukugcizelela ngezingubo zabo, bangena ebhizinisini ngokwabo. U-Anne Klein, u-Givenchy, u-Emanuel Ungaro kanye no-Yves Saint Laurent bonke benza ubucwebe bemfashini. Ukwengeza Ukwethembeka''Lapho u-Yves Saint Laurent eqala ukuklama eminyakeni emithathu edlule, waletha ukwethembeka esigabeni sobucwebe bemfashini,'' kusho u-Miss Evans e-Monet, okwenza Iqoqo le-YSL.Ngenxa yokuthi ezinye izimfashini zamanje zibonakala zingaphelele ngaphandle kobucwebe obufanelekile, ubucwebe bemfashini nezingubo ziya ngokuya zidayiswa ngokuhambisana.Advertisement''Specialty izitolo zezimpahla zabesifazane bezihlala zingangeni ebucwebe,'' kusho uJohn Cohn, iphini likamongameli kanye nojikelele. umphathi wezokuthengisa we-Independent Retailers' Syndicate, inhlangano yabathengisi bamazwe ngamazwe abangu-185. ''Kodwa manje sebeyabona ukuthi bangenza imali eningi.''Imfashini iyashintshashintsha, ngakho ezinyangeni ezingu-18 ubucwebe bemfashini kungenzeka sebufiphele. Kodwa abenzi bobucwebe bemfashini banethemba lokuthi izinto zabo ezithengiswayo zizuze abalandeli abaningi.''Sengeze i-psychology kule ngxubevange,'' uNkk. UHymowitz uthe, ''ngakho, izinto zihlukile. Uma owesifazane esefunde ukujabulela ubucwebe, buba yingxenye yesitayela sakhe, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi imfashini ishintsha kanjani.''Inguqulo yalesi sihloko ivela ngokunyatheliswa ngoDisemba 24, 1984, ekhasini 1001033 lohlelo lukazwelonke olunesihloko esikhulu esithi: COSTUME UBUCHULU BUZUZA ISIMO. Oda Ukuphrinta Kabusha| Iphepha Lanamuhla|Bhalisa