Amadayimane Ahlala Phakade,' futhi Enziwa Ngomshini

I-OXFORDSHIRE, ENgilandi - Esakhiweni sezimboni ezimhlophe emagqumeni asemazweni aseNgilandi amakhilomitha angu-16 ukusuka e-Oxford, imishini yesiliva emise okwemikhumbi-mkhathi ikhala ngaphakathi kwamalabhorethri amakhulu. Baphindaphinda ukucindezela okukhulu kanye namazinga okushisa atholakala ekujuleni koqweqwe lomhlaba futhi bakhiqiza, emasontweni ambalwa, lokho ngokomlando imvelo eyayikwazi ukuphatha izigidigidi zeminyaka kuphela: amadayimane angenasici.Lena yi-Element Six Innovation Centre, ingalo yezimboni yakwaDe Beers umbhemu wedayimane osebenze izimayini kusukela e-Arctic kuya eNingizimu Afrika, eyadala (futhi ingxenye enkulu yekhulu lama-20 yalawula) imakethe yedayimane yomhlaba wonke, eyaqinisekisa umhlaba ukuthi "idayimane lingunaphakade" futhi lokho kwenza amadayimane afane nezindandatho zokuthembisana. amashumi eminyaka ezintweni ezihlukahlukene njengamathuluzi omshini wokumba uwoyela negesi, ama-laser anamandla amakhulu kanye nezinhlelo zezipikha ezisezingeni eliphezulu, ososayensi bakwaDe Beers kwa-Element Six baye bathuthela endaweni entsha ezinyangeni ezisanda kwedlula njengoba inkampani ibeka izinto zayo. emakethe enenzuzo ngokwesiko yayigwema: ukukhiqizwa kwamatshe okwenziwa kobucwebe.NgoLwesibili, u-De Beers uzokwethula i-Lightbox, ilebula yobucwebe bemfashini ethengisa (ngokuqhathaniswa) amagugu anesabelomali esiphansi esikhangayo emakethe enkulu. (Cabanga ngesipho esimnandi se-16, hhayi indandatho yokuthembisana.) Izikhonkwane ezikhuliswe elebhu e-pastel, ezimhlophe neziluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka ezikhule elebhu kanye namapendenti, anenani elisuka ku-$200 ngekota yekherati ukuya ku-$800 ngekherati eyodwa, zizokwethulwa ngesipho sekhadibhodi elinombala kaswidi. amabhokisi futhi ekuqaleni ayedayiselwa abathengi ngokuqondile nge-e-commerce.Nakuba amadayimane enziwe izinkampani ezifana ne-Diamond Foundry e-United States kanye ne-New Diamond Technology yase-Russia ngokuvamile abiza ngaphansi kwamaphesenti angama-30 kuya kwangu-40 kunozakwabo bemvelo, awekho eduze nendawo eshibhile njenge- evela ku-Lightbox, ezonciphisa izimbangi zayo cishe ngamaphesenti angu-75. Ngokubiza kwakhe amanani aqinile nokukhangisa okuqondile, i-De Beers ihlose ngokusobala ukuba umdlali ovelele kule makethe ekhulayo, ngesikhathi esifanayo ivikela ibhizinisi layo eliyinhloko."Abasebenzi basezimayini abakhulu babambe ukukhathazeka mayelana nokukhula kwemakethe yobucwebe bedayimane yokwenziwa isikhathi esithile, ikakhulukazi kule minyaka eyishumi edlule, njengoba izinga lamatshe selithuthukile futhi nezindleko zokukhiqiza seziqalile ukwehla," kusho uPaul Zimnisky, umhlaziyi ozimele wemboni yedayimane kanye nomeluleki.De Beers, elawula cishe amaphesenti angama-30 okunikezwa komhlaba ngamatshe ambiwayo (ehle isuka kokuthathu kokuthathu ngo-1998) futhi ephethe izinhlobo ezinhle zobucwebe iDe Beers kanye neForevermark, ithe ibisabela nje esidingweni sabathengi." Ngemva kokwenza ucwaningo lwethu, sibona ithuba elikhulu lokungena emakethe yobucwebe bemfashini manje ngokwenza okuthile abathengi abasitshela ukuthi bayakufuna kodwa okungakaze kwenziwe muntu: amatshe okwenziwa ngemibala emisha nejabulisayo, acwebezelayo futhi ngentengo efinyeleleka kakhulu kunaleyo. Iminikelo yedayimane ekhona elebhu,” kusho uBruce Cleaver, isikhulu esiphezulu, ngesikhathi exoxa ngocingo. amatshe okwenziwa njengezinye izindlela esikhundleni samadayimane ambiwayo aholwa yi-Diamond Producers Association Campaign. Nakuba amatshe enziwe abantu enza cishe amaphesenti amabili kuphela embonini yedayimane, abahlaziyi beCitibank babikezele ukuthi kungenzeka kukhuphuke ngamaphesenti ayishumi ngo-2030." Kusho uZimnisky. "Lena akusiyo imakethe esizophela." Ngomakhemikhali afana namadayimane ambiwe (ngokungafani namadayimane adlule njenge-cubic zirconia, i-moissanite noma amakristalu e-Swarovski), amadayimane okwenziwa kudala esetshenziselwa izinjongo zezimboni. I-De Beers ngokwayo "ikhula" amadayimane e-Element Six iminyaka engu-50, kancane kancane ikhiqiza amatshe engxube yegesi ye-hydrocarbon endaweni yokushisa ephezulu, eshisa kakhulu. futhi intengo yazo ngokufanele, uDe Beers, ontanga yakhe basezimayini abahlanganisa i-Rio Tinto kanye ne-Alrosa yaseRussia, unqume ukuyisa impi yesabelo semakethe endaweni yaselabhorethri. Ngokuhambisana nokusebenza kwayo okunomfutho ophezulu, izinga lokushisa eliphezulu, i-Element Six isebenzisa inqubo entsha eyaziwa ngokuthi i-C.V.D., noma i-chemical vapor deposition, esebenzisa ukucindezela okuphansi endaweni engenalutho egcwele amagesi asabela ukuze enze izingqimba zekhabhoni ezihlangana kancane kancane zibe into eyodwa. itshe. Indlela entsha ishibhile futhi kulula ukuyiqapha kunendala ngakho-ke iyakwazi ukulinganiswa njengebhizinisi lobucwebe." I-Synthetics ayisoze yaba nkulu njengebhizinisi lethu lemvelo, futhi utshalomali lwethu esikhaleni luncishiswe kunakwezinye izindawo," uMnu. . Kusho uCleaver. “Kepha sinenzuzo enkulu ngaphezu kwawo wonke umuntu, uma sibheka ulwazi nengqalasizinda ehlinzekwa yi-Element Six. Ngakho-ke yinto esinqume ukuthi sizimisele ngayo kakhulu." (Imboni ka-De Beers eyakha amaRandi ayizigidi ezingama-94 eGresham, e-Ore., kulindeleke ukuthi ikhiqize ama-carats angamahhafu wesigidi ngonyaka ngemva kokuqedwa kwayo ngo-2020.) umbuzo ocishe ube yi-metaphysical walokho okuchaza idayimane.Ingabe isakhiwo salo samakhemikhali, okuyimpikiswano yabakhiqizi bokwenziwa noma imvelaphi yalo: eyadalwa ekujuleni komhlaba nguMama woMhlaba, kunokuba iphekwe emshinini? udidekile ngokuqondakalayo. Kunhlolovo yabantu abadala abangu-2,011 eyenziwe kule nyanga ye-Diamond Producers Association nguHarris Insights. & Ukuhlaziya, amaphesenti angu-68 athi awacabangi ukuthi ama-synthetics angamadayimane angempela, amaphesenti angu-16 athi acabanga ukuthi ayenjalo, kanti amaphesenti angu-16 athi awaqiniseki. Kodwa ukwamukelwa kwale mikhiqizo emisha kunamandla okuguqula imakethe yedayimane, ngoba amadayimane akhule elebhu aphindaphindeka ngokungapheli.U-Sally Morrison, inhloko yezokuthengisa ye-Lightbox, uthe imikhiqizo yomkhiqizo yayihloselwe ukubukwa ngabathengi njengezesekeli zokudlala. “Wonke umuntu okulesi sikhala ugxile kwezokukhangisa emkhakheni wamakoti,” uNksz. Kusho uMorrison. "Futhi sikholelwa ukuthi baphuthelwa yithuba elithakazelisa ngendlela emangalisayo: uchwepheshe ozithengayo nowesifazane osemncane, owesifazane osekhulile osevele eneqoqo lobucwebe," nanoma yimuphi owesifazane "ongafuni isisindo nobucayi bedayimane langempela." impilo yansuku zonke."Umlayezo udluliswa nakuba ukupakishwa kubhalwe ngokucacile "amadayimane akhule elebhu" futhi kuhloswe ukuba kube okuphambene nebhokisi levelvet. Umkhankaso wesikhangiso wokuqala wenziwa uMicaela Erlanger, owaduma ngokugqokisa umlingisi uLupita Nyong'o umata obomvu. Iqukethe amamodeli ahlukahlukene asemancane agidagila amahembe edenim futhi ephethe izinto ezicwebezelayo futhi ehleka, izikhangiso ziza nomugqa wamathegi njengokuthi "Live, Laugh, Sparkle." "Amadayimane enziwe umuntu akufanele abize ngokulingana namatshe emvelo - ahluke ngokuphelele. amabhizinisi," uSteve Coe, umphathi jikelele weLightbox, esho emi eduze kwebhokisi lengilazi elingangesitsha sokuphosa e-Element Six. Ngaphakathi kwakukhona imbewu yedayimane, lapho itshe lalikhula cishe ngamayintshi angu-0.0004 ngehora.Owayengusosayensi owayeyinhloko ye-innovation kwa-Element Six, uMnu. U-Coe uthuthele e-De Beers ezinyangeni eziyi-18 ezedlule ukuyofunda izindlela zokuya emakethe yobucwebe bokwenziwa. "Angikhathazekile kangako ngabanye abafana," esho. "Simane sibeka umkhiqizo ngentengo okufanele ube ngayo, nalapho uzoba khona eminyakeni emihlanu noma eyisithupha, ngaleyo ndlela siqinisekisa ukuthi amakhasimende ethu namuhla awawona amakhasimende angajabule kusasa." Ngaphezu kwalokho, uMnu. U-Coe naye ubesezinhlungwini zokuphikisa lokho akubiza ngokuthi "izimangalo ezidukisayo nezingamanga" mayelana namadayimane okwenziwa: ukuthi ayindlela esimeme kakhudlwana esikhundleni samatshe ambiwayo, ngamaketanga amafushane kanye nezinyathelo ezincane zekhabhoni." Uma kubhekwa ingcindezi edingekayo ukuze kwakhiwe ilebhu. -amadayimane asekhulile, afana ne-Eiffel Tower ebekwe ethini le-Coke," esho. "Uma ubheka izinombolo ezinemininingwane, amazinga okusetshenziswa kwamandla phakathi kwedayimane lemvelo kanye nelenziwe umuntu aku-ballpark efanayo."Akukona okokuqala uDe Beers enza amabhrendi namasu okukhangisa ekuphenduleni ukuphazamiseka kwemakethe yedayimane kusukela. yayeka ukubusa ngo-2000, yashiya inqubomgomo yayo yeminyaka engama-60 yokulawula ukuhlinzekwa kanye nesidingo sokugxila ezimayini nasekukhangiseni esikhundleni. ubuchwepheshe babo bokuklama, u-De Beers ungene ebhizinisini elihlanganyelwe ne-LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton futhi wasungula i-De Beers Diamond Jewelry. (I-De Beers yayinqatshelwe ukuthengisa ngokuqondile noma ukusabalalisa amadayimane ayo e-United States ngenxa yezinkinga zesikhathi eside zokungathembeki, kusukela zixazululiwe.) Ngo-2017, u-De Beers wathenga amaphesenti angu-50 aphethwe yi-LVMH ukuze alawule ngokugcwele umkhiqizo. uhlobo lunikeza u-De Beers "umbono ongcono kakhulu wokuthi yini ocabanga ukuthi abantu bazoyikhokhela ngokuhlinzekwa kwesikhathi esimaphakathi nesikhathi eside," uMnu. Kusho uCleaver. “Ibhizinisi elibaluleke kakhulu kithina ngalowo mqondo. Kanjalo no-Forevermark." Lolo hlobo, olugxile kumagugu atholakala ngokuzibophezela, lwadalwa ngo-2008, ngokwengxenye ukuphendula isifiso sabathengi samadayimane angenazingxabano.I-Lightbox ihambisana ngokugcwele naleli su. "Ama-synthetics amnandi futhi asemfashinini, kodwa akuwona amadayimane angempela encwadini yami," uMnu. Kusho uCleaver. “Ayiyivelakancane noma ayinikezwa ngezikhathi ezimnandi zokuphila. Akufanele futhi kube njalo.