Madhaimondi Anogara Nokusingaperi,' uye Akagadzirwa neMuchina

OXFORDSHIRE, England - Muchivakwa chichena cheindasitiri muzvikomo zvinotendereka zvemaruwa eChirungu mamaira gumi nematanhatu kubva kuOxford, michina yesirivha yakaita sezvikepe zvemuchadenga inorira mukati memarabhoritari makuru. Vari kudzokorora kudzvanyirira kwakanyanya uye tembiricha inowanikwa mukati mepasi uye vachigadzira, mumavhiki mashoma, izvo zvakangoitika kare zvakakwanisa kungoita mabhiriyoni emakore: madhaimondi asina mhosva.Iyi ndiyo Element Six Innovation Center, ruoko rweindasitiri yeDe Beers diamond bhemoth kuti yakashanda migodhi kubva kuArctic kusvika kuSouth Africa, iyo yakasika (uye kune yakawanda yezana remakore rechi20 inodzorwa) misika yemadhaimani yepasi rose, iyo yakagutsikana nenyika "dhaimondi rinogara nokusingaperi" uye izvo zvakaita kuti madhaimani aenderane nekubatana mhete. kwemakumi emakore pazvinhu zvakasiyana sematurusi emafuta uye gasi anodhiraivha, epamusoro-powered lasers uye state-of-the-art speaker masisitimu, masayendisiti eDe Beers kuElement Six akatamira munzvimbo itsva mumwedzi ichangopfuura sezvo kambani inoisa zvibodzwa zvayo. pamusika unopa mari yaiwanzodzivisa: kugadzirwa kwematombo ezvishongo zvekugadzira.Musi weChipiri, De Beers achasuma Lightbox, chishongo chefashoni chinotengesa (zvishoma) matombo anokosha ane mari shoma ane misika yakawanda. (Funga nezvechipo chinotapira 16, kwete mhete yekuvimbisana.) Pastel pink, chena uye yeblue-eblue-lab-grown studs nemapendants, mutengo kubva pa$200 for quarter carat kusvika ku$800 for one carat, zvichaunzwa muchipo chekadhibhodhi chine ruvara rwechihwitsi. mabhokisi uye pakutanga aitengeswa zvakananga kuvatengi kuburikidza ne e-commerce.Kunyangwe madhaimondi akagadzirwa nemakambani akaita seDiamond Foundry kuUnited States neNew Diamond Technology yekuRussia anowanzoita 30 kusvika 40 muzana pasi peawo echisikigo, hapana kwaanosvika kwakachipa se kubva kuLightbox, iyo ichaderedza vakwikwidzi vayo neanenge 75 muzana. Kuburikidza nemitengo yayo ine hutsinye uye kushambadzira kwakananga, De Beers inovavarira zvakajeka kuve mutambi mukuru mumusika uyu uri kukura, panguva imwe chete ichidzivirira bhizinesi rayo guru." nezve kukura kwemusika wekugadzira zvishongo zvemadhaimani kwenguva yakati, kunyanya mumakore gumi apfuura, sezvo kunaka kwematombo kwave nani uye mutengo wekugadzira watanga kuderera," akadaro Paul Zimnisky, muongorori akazvimirira weindasitiri yemadhaimani uye chipangamazano.De Beers. iyo inodzora chikamu chinosvika makumi matatu kubva muzana chematombo anocherwa pasi rose (kubva pazvikamu zviviri muzvitatu muna 1998) uye ine mhando yezvishongo zveDe Beers neForevermark, yakati yaingopindura kudiwa kwevatengi. mukana mukuru wekupinda mumusika wezvishongo zvefashoni zvino nekuita chimwe chinhu chatinoudzwa nevatengi chavanoda asi hapana mumwe munhu ati aita: matombo ekugadzira mumavara matsva uye anonakidza, ane kupenya kwakawanda uye pamutengo unosvikika zvakanyanya kupfuura. iripo lab-yakakura madhaimondi anopihwa," akadaro Bruce Cleaver, mukuru mukuru, panguva yekubvunzurudzwa parunhare. Pfungwa iyi ingadai isingafungidzike kunyange makore maviri apfuura, apo De Beers aive chikamu chemushandirapamwe we "Real Is Rare" kurwisa kusimudzirwa. matombo ekugadzira sedzimwe nzira dzemadhaimondi anocherwa achitungamirwa neDiamond Producers Association Campaign. Kunyange zvazvo matombo akagadzirwa nevanhu achingoita zvikamu zviviri kubva muzana zveindasitiri yemadhaimani, vanoongorora kuCitibank vakafungidzira kuti zvingangokwira kusvika pazvikamu gumi kubva muzana muna 2030. Zimnisky akadaro. "Uyu hausi musika wave kuda kuenda." Chemical yakafanana nedhaimondi rakacherwa (kusiyana neapfuura madhaimondi akatsiva akadai cubic zirconia, moissanite kana Swarovski makristasi), madhaimondi ekugadzira ave achishandiswa kwenguva refu kumaindasitiri. De Beers pachayo yanga "ichikura" madhaimani paElement Six kwemakore makumi mashanu, zvishoma nezvishoma ichigadzira matombo kubva musanganiswa wehydrocarbon gasi mune yakakwira-kudzvanywa, yakakwirira-tembiricha reactor. uye nemutengo wazvo zvinoenderana, De Beers, ane vezera rake mumigodhi vanosanganisira Rio Tinto neRussia Alrosa, afunga kuendesa kurwira mugove wemusika kunzvimbo yerabhoritari. Padivi pekudzvanya kwayo, kudziya kwepamusoro-soro, Element Six iri kushandisa nzira nyowani inozivikanwa seCVD, kana kemikari vapor deposition, iyo inoshandisa yakaderera kudzvanywa muvacuum izere nemagasi anoita kuti agadzire akaturikidzana kabhoni anobatana zvishoma nezvishoma kuita imwechete. ibwe. Nzira nyowani iyi yakachipa uye iri nyore kutarisa kupfuura yekare uye nekudaro inokwanisa kukwirisa sebhizinesi rezvishongo." Synthetics haizombove yakakura sebhizinesi redu rechisikigo, uye mari yedu munzvimbo idiki neiyo kumwewo," Mr. . Cleaver akadaro. "Asi isu tine mukana wakakura kupfuura vamwe vese, tichipihwa ruzivo uye zvivakwa zvakapihwa neElement Six. Saka chinhu chatasarudza kukoshesa zvikuru." (Chirimwa chemadhora mamiriyoni makumi mapfumbamwe nemana chiri kuvaka De Beers muGresham, Ore., chiri kutarisirwa kugadzira hafu yemirioni rough carats pagore mushure mekupedzwa kwayo muna 2020.) mubvunzo unenge wemetaphysical wezvinotsanangudza dhaimondi.Ndiro chimiro chayo chemakemikari, inova nharo yevagadziri vekugadzira kana kuti mavambo ayo: yakasikwa zvakadzika muvhu naAmai Pasi, pane kubikwa mumushini? zvinonzwisisika kuvhiringidzika. Musarudzo yevakuru zviuru zviviri negumi neimwe yakaitwa mwedzi uno kuDiamond Producers Association naHarris Insights. & Analytics, 68 muzana vakati havafungi kuti zvigadzirwa zvemadhaimondi chaiwo, 16 muzana vakati vaifunga kuti ndivo, uye 16 muzana vakati havana chokwadi. Asi kugamuchirwa kwezvinhu zvitsva izvi kune mukana wekushandura musika wedhaimondi, nekuti madhaimondi akakura anoramba achingodzokororwa. "Wese ari munzvimbo ino ari kutarisisa kushambadzira kwavo pachikwata chevaroora," Ms. Morrison akadaro. "Uye isu tinotenda kuti vari kurasikirwa nemukana unonakidza unoshamisa: nyanzvi yekuzvitenga uye mukadzi mudiki, mukadzi mukuru uyo ​​atova nechekuunganidza zvishongo," uye chero mukadzi "asingadi kurema uye kukomba kwedhaimondi chaiyo. hupenyu hwemazuva ese." Mharidzo inosvitswa kunyangwe pakaputirwa akanyorwa zvakajeka "dhaimani akarimwa murabhoritari" uye anoitirwa kupesana nebhokisi revelvet. Mushandirapamwe wekutanga wekushambadzira wakaitwa naMicaela Erlanger, uyo akave nemukurumbira wekupfekedza mutambi Lupita Nyong'o pakapeti tsvuku. Iine mhando dzakasiyana siyana dzemhando dzechidiki dzinodzungaira dzakapfeka hembe dzedenim uye dzakabata zvinopenya uye kuseka, kushambadzira kunouya nemategi senge "Rarama, Seka, Sparkle." "Madhaimondi akagadzirwa nevanhu haafanire kudhura zvakafanana nematombo echisikigo - akapatsanurwa zvachose. mabhizinesi," Steve Coe, maneja mukuru weLightbox, akadaro akamira padivi pebhokisi regirazi rakaenzana nembiya yebowling paElement Six. Mukati maive nemhodzi yedhaimondi, kubva pairi dombo raikura zvinosvika 0.0004 inch paawa.Aimbova musayendisiti uye mukuru wezvekuvandudza paElement Six, Mr. Coe akatamira kuDe Beers mwedzi gumi nemisere yapfuura kuti adzidze nzira dzemusika wezvishongo zvekugadzira. "Handina hanya nevamwe vakomana," akadaro. "Isu tiri kungoisa chigadzirwa pamutengo wachanofanirwa kunge chiri, uye kwachave mukati memakore mashanu kana matanhatu, nekudaro tive nechokwadi chekuti vatengi vedu nhasi havasi vatengi vasingafarire mangwana." Pamusoro pezvo, Mr. Coe airwadziwawo kupenengura zvaakadaidza zvakawanda zve "zvinorasika uye zvenhema zvirevo" zvakatenderedza madhaimani ekugadzira: kuti iwo akasarudzika nzira dzematombo anocherwa, ane mapfupi ekupa cheni uye madiki kabhoni tsoka. -madhaimondi akakura, akafanana neEiffel Tower iri kuiswa pagaba reCoke," akadaro. "Kana iwe ukatarisa nhamba dzakadzama, huwandu hwemashandisirwo emagetsi pakati pemadhaimondi echisikigo neakaitwa nevanhu ari munzvimbo imwechete yebhora." Aka hakasi kekutanga De Beers kugadzira mabhureki uye nzira dzekushambadzira mukupindura kukanganisa mumusika wedhaimani kubvira. yakasiya hutongi hwayo muna 2000, ichisiya mutemo wayo wemakore makumi matanhatu wekutonga kugovera uye kuda kuisa pfungwa pamigodhi nekutengesa panzvimbo. hunyanzvi hwavo hwekugadzira, De Beers akapinda mumubatanidzwa neLVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton uye akatanga De Beers Diamond Jewelry. (De Beers yakanga yarambidzwa kutengesa zvakananga kana kugovera madhaimondi ayo muUnited States nekuda kwenyaya dzenguva refu dzeantitrust, kubva zvakagadziriswa.) Muna 2017, De Beers akatenga chikamu che50 muzana cheLVMH kuti atore kutonga kwakazara kwechiratidzo. mhando inopa De Beers "maonero ari nani pane zvaunofunga kuti vanhu vachabhadhara kune yepakati-uye yenguva refu," Mr. Cleaver akadaro. "Iri bhizinesi rakakosha kwatiri nenzira iyoyo. Ndizvo zvakaita Forevermark." Chiratidzo ichi, chinotarisa pamatombo anokosha anowanikwa, chakasikwa muna 2008, chikamu chekupindura chido chevatengi chekuda madhaimondi asina kurwisana. "Synthetics inonakidza uye ine fashoni, asi haasi madhaimani chaiwo mubhuku rangu," Mr. Cleaver akadaro. "Haawanzowanikwi kana kupihwa panguva dzakanaka dzehupenyu. Uyewo havafaniri kudaro.