Pob zeb diamonds nyob ib txhis,' thiab ua los ntawm tshuab

OXFORDSHIRE, England - Nyob rau hauv ib lub tsev lag luam dawb nyob rau hauv lub roob dov ntawm lub teb chaws Askiv nyob 16 mais ntawm Oxford, cov tshuab nyiaj zoo li lub dav hlau hum hauv chav kuaj loj. Lawv tau rov ua dua qhov siab thiab qhov kub thiab txias pom qhov tob hauv lub ntiaj teb lub pob zeb thiab tsim tawm, nyob rau hauv ib lub lis piam, dab tsi keeb kwm xwm tswj tsuas yog ntau tshaj li billions xyoo: flawless diamonds.Qhov no yog lub Element Six Innovation Center, muaj caj npab ntawm De Beers, lub pob zeb diamond behemoth uas tau ua haujlwm mines los ntawm Arctic mus rau South Africa, uas tsim (thiab rau feem ntau ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th tswj tau) lub ntiaj teb pob zeb diamond lag luam, uas ntseeg tau lub ntiaj teb no "ib pob zeb diamond nyob mus ib txhis" thiab uas ua rau cov pob zeb diamond synonymous nrog kev koom tes rings.Focused rau ntau xyoo dhau los ntawm cov khoom sib txawv xws li cov cuab yeej rau cov roj thiab roj drillers, lub zog lasers thiab lub xeev-of-the-art speaker systems, De Beers cov kws tshawb fawb ntawm Element Six tau tsiv mus rau thaj chaw tshiab hauv lub hlis tsis ntev los no raws li lub tuam txhab teeb tsa nws qhov kev pom. Nyob rau hauv kev lag luam muaj txiaj ntsig nws ib txwm zam: kev tsim cov pob zeb hluavtaws hluavtaws.Hnub Tuesday, De Beers yuav qhia Lightbox, cov khoom lag luam zam kos npe muag (kwv yees) cov pob zeb siv nyiaj tsawg nrog kev lag luam loj. (Xav txog 16 khoom plig qab zib, tsis yog lub nplhaib sib koom ua ke.) Pastel liab dawb, dawb thiab me nyuam mos-xiav lab-loj studs thiab pendants, luv nqi ntawm $ 200 rau ib quarter carat rau $ 800 rau ib carat, yuav muab tso rau hauv khoom qab zib-xim duab los qhia khoom plig cov thawv thiab pib muag ncaj qha rau cov neeg siv khoom ntawm e-lag luam.Txawm hais tias pob zeb diamond tsim los ntawm cov tuam txhab xws li Pob Zeb Diamond Foundry hauv Tebchaws Meskas thiab New Diamond Technology ntawm Russia feem ntau raug nqi 30 txog 40 feem pua ​​​​tsawg dua lawv cov khoom ntuj tsim, lawv tsis muaj nyob ze li pheej yig li qhov. ib qho los ntawm Lightbox, uas yuav txo qis nws cov neeg sib tw los ntawm kwv yees li 75 feem pua.Los ntawm nws tus nqi txhoj puab heev thiab taw qhia kev lag luam, De Beers kom meej meej ua tus neeg tseem ceeb hauv kev lag luam loj hlob no, thaum tib lub sijhawm tiv thaiv nws cov lag luam tseem ceeb. "Cov miners loj tau muaj kev txhawj xeeb. hais txog kev loj hlob ntawm cov khoom siv pob zeb diamond hniav nyiaj hniav kub ua lag luam rau qee lub sijhawm, tshwj xeeb tshaj li kaum xyoo dhau los, vim tias cov pob zeb zoo tau txhim kho thiab cov nqi tsim khoom tau pib poob, "said Paul Zimnisky, tus kws tshaj lij kev lag luam pob zeb diamond ywj pheej thiab tus kws pab tswv yim.De Beers, uas tswj txog 30 feem pua ​​​​ntawm lub ntiaj teb cov khoom siv pob zeb mined (los ntawm ob feem peb hauv xyoo 1998) thiab yog tus tswv ntawm cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub zoo De Beers thiab Forevermark, tau hais tias nws tsuas yog teb rau cov neeg siv khoom xav tau. "Tom qab peb tshawb fawb, peb pom ib qho Lub sijhawm loj heev los nkag rau hauv kev lag luam zam zam tam sim no los ntawm kev ua ib yam dab tsi uas cov neeg siv khoom qhia peb tias lawv xav tau tab sis tsis muaj leej twg tau ua tiav: pob zeb hluavtaws hauv cov xim tshiab thiab lom zem, nrog ntau lub ci ntsa iab thiab ntawm tus nqi nkag mus deb dua. Bruce Cleaver, tus thawj coj ntawm lub chaw kuaj mob uas twb muaj lawm, tau hais thaum sib tham hauv xov tooj.Lub tswv yim yuav tsis xav txog txawm tias ob xyoos dhau los, thaum De Beers yog ib feem ntawm "Real Is Rare" phiaj los nqis tes los tawm tsam kev txhawb nqa. cov pob zeb hluavtaws ua lwm txoj hauv kev mined pob zeb diamond coj los ntawm Pob Zeb Diamond Producers Association Campaign. Txawm hais tias cov pob zeb tsim los ntawm tib neeg tsuas yog kwv yees li 2 feem pua ​​​​ntawm cov pob zeb diamond kev lag luam cov khoom, cov kws tshuaj ntsuam ntawm Citibank tau kwv yees tias yuav nce mus txog 10 feem pua ​​​​los ntawm 2030. Zimnisky hais tias. "Qhov no tsis yog kev lag luam uas tab tom yuav ploj mus." Cov tshuaj zoo ib yam rau mined pob zeb diamond (tsis zoo li yav dhau los pob zeb diamond hloov xws li cubic zirconia, moissanite lossis Swarovski crystals), cov pob zeb hluavtaws tau ntev tau siv rau kev lag luam. De Beers nws tus kheej tau "loj hlob" pob zeb diamond ntawm Element Six rau 50 xyoo, maj mam tsim cov pob zeb los ntawm hydrocarbon gas sib tov nyob rau hauv ib tug high-pressure, high-kub reactor.Tab sis raws li Silicon Valley cov neeg sib tw pib ua lag luam lawv cov khoom hluavtaws raws li qhov kev xaiv, kev xaiv ntsuab. thiab tus nqi rau lawv raws li, De Beers, uas nws cov phooj ywg mining suav nrog Rio Tinto thiab Russia's Alrosa, tau txiav txim siab los sib ntaus sib tua rau kev ua lag luam rau hauv chav kuaj turf. Nrog rau nws cov kev ua haujlwm siab, kub kub, Element Six yog siv cov txheej txheem tshiab hu ua CVD, los yog cov tshuaj vapor deposition, uas siv tsis tshua muaj siab nyob rau hauv lub tshuab nqus tsev uas muaj gases react los tsim cov khaubncaws sab nraud povtseg ntawm cov pa roj carbon monoxide, maj mam sib sau ua ke nyob rau hauv ib tug. pob zeb. Txoj kev tshiab yog pheej yig dua thiab yooj yim los saib xyuas dua li qub thiab yog li muaj peev xwm ua tau raws li kev lag luam hniav nyiaj hniav kub. "Synthetics yuav tsis loj npaum li peb lub lag luam ntuj, thiab peb cov kev nqis peev rau hauv qhov chaw yog dwarfed los ntawm lwm qhov," Mr. . Cleaver hais tias. "Tab sis peb muaj txiaj ntsig zoo dua txhua tus neeg, muab kev paub thiab kev tsim kho vaj tse los ntawm Element Six. Yog li nws yog ib yam uas peb tau txiav txim siab hnyav heev. " (Ib qho $ 94 lab tsob nroj uas De Beers tab tom tsim hauv Gresham, Ore., xav tias yuav tsim ib nrab lab tus carats ib xyoos tom qab ua tiav xyoo 2020.) Ntawm qhov teeb meem yog ib qho yuav luag metaphysical lo lus nug ntawm dab tsi txhais lub pob zeb diamond.Puas yog nws cov qauv tshuaj, uas yog qhov kev sib cav ntawm cov neeg tsim khoom hluavtaws? nkag siab tsis meej pem. Hauv kev xaiv tsa ntawm 2,011 tus neeg laus tau ua lub hlis no rau Lub Koom Haum Tsim Kho Pob Zeb Diamond los ntawm Harris Insights & Analytics, 68 feem pua ​​​​hais tias lawv tsis xav txog cov khoom siv los ua cov pob zeb diamond tiag tiag, 16 feem pua ​​​​hais tias lawv xav tias lawv yog, thiab 16 feem pua ​​​​hais tias lawv tsis paub meej. Tab sis qhov kev lees paub ntawm cov khoom tshiab no muaj peev xwm los hloov pauv lub lag luam pob zeb diamond, vim tias cov pob zeb loj hauv lab yog cov khoom siv tsis tu ncua. "Txhua tus neeg uas nyob hauv qhov chaw no tau tsom mus rau lawv cov lag luam ntawm pawg nkauj nyab," Ms. Morrison hais. "Thiab peb ntseeg tias lawv tau ploj mus rau lub sijhawm nthuav dav: tus kheej-m yuav tus kws tshaj lij thiab tus poj niam hluas, tus poj niam laus uas twb muaj cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub sau," thiab txhua tus poj niam "uas tsis xav tau qhov hnyav thiab hnyav ntawm pob zeb diamond tiag tiag. Lub neej txhua hnub." Cov lus tau hais txawm tias ntim khoom kom meej meej "laboratory-grown diamonds" thiab npaj los ua qhov ntxeev ntawm lub thawv velvet. Kev tshaj tawm thawj zaug tau tsim los ntawm Micaela Erlanger, uas tau los ua nto moo rau hnav khaub ncaws ua yeeb yam Lupita Nyong'o rau cov ntaub pua plag liab. Featuring ntau yam cam khwb cia ntawm cov tub ntxhais hluas qauv roping nyob rau hauv lub tsho denim thiab tuav sparklers thiab luag, cov tshaj tawm tuaj nrog taglines xws li "Nyob, Laug, Sparkle." "Txiv neej cov pob zeb diamond yuav tsum tsis txhob raug nqi ib yam li tej yam ntuj tso pob zeb - lawv tiag tiag cais tag nrho. kev lag luam, "Steve Coe, tus thawj coj ntawm Lightbox, hais thaum nws sawv ntawm lub khob iav qhov loj ntawm lub tais bowling ntawm Element Six. Sab hauv yog pob zeb diamond noob, los ntawm lub pob zeb loj hlob li 0.0004 nti ib teev. Coe tau tsiv mus rau De Beers 18 lub hlis dhau los los kawm txog txoj hauv kev rau cov khoom siv hluavtaws. Nws hais tias "Kuv tsis txhawj txog lwm tus neeg," nws hais. "Peb tsuas yog tso cov khoom ntawm tus nqi nws yuav tsum yog, thiab qhov twg nws yuav nyob rau hauv tsib lossis rau xyoo, yog li ua kom peb cov neeg siv khoom niaj hnub no tsis zoo siab rau tag kis." Tsis tas li ntawd, Mr. Coe kuj tau mob siab rau debunk qhov nws hu ua ntau qhov "kev dag ntxias thiab kev dag ntxias" nyob ib puag ncig cov pob zeb hluavtaws: tias lawv yog cov kev xaiv zoo dua rau cov pob zeb mined, nrog cov saw hlau luv thiab cov pa roj carbon me me. - loj pob zeb diamond, nws zoo li lub Eiffel Ntauwd tau muab tso rau ntawm lub kaus poom ntawm Coke, "nws hais. "Yog tias koj saib cov lej kom ntxaws, qib kev siv hluav taws xob nruab nrab ntawm cov pob zeb tsim los ntawm ntuj thiab tib neeg tsim nyob rau hauv tib lub ballpark." Qhov no tsis yog thawj zaug De Beers tau tsim cov hom lag luam thiab cov tswv yim tshaj tawm hauv kev teb rau kev cuam tshuam hauv kev lag luam pob zeb diamond txij li thaum. Nws tau tso nws txoj kev ywj pheej hauv xyoo 2000, tso tseg nws txoj cai 60 xyoo ntawm kev tswj cov khoom siv thiab kev thov kom mloog zoo rau kev tsuas thiab kev lag luam xwb. Xyoo 2002, tom qab zam hom xws li Dior thiab Chanel tau pib nkag mus rau cov khoom lag luam zoo nkauj, muag qhov tseem ceeb ntawm lawv cov kev txawj ntse tsim, De Beers tau nkag mus rau hauv kev koom tes nrog LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton thiab nrhiav tau De Beers Pob Zeb Diamond Jewelry. (De Beers tau raug txwv tsis pub muag ncaj qha lossis faib nws cov pob zeb diamond hauv Tebchaws Meskas vim muaj teeb meem kev tiv thaiv ntev, txij li tau txiav txim siab.) Xyoo 2017, De Beers yuav tawm 50 feem pua ​​​​ntawm cov tswv los ntawm LVMH los tswj tag nrho cov hom.Owning Lub hom phiaj muab De Beers "kev pom zoo dua ntawm qhov koj xav tias tib neeg yuav them rau cov khoom nruab nrab thiab mus sij hawm ntev," Mr. Cleaver hais tias. "Nws yog ib qho lag luam muaj txiaj ntsig tshwj xeeb rau peb hauv qhov kev nkag siab ntawd. Yog li ntawd yog Forevermark. " Lub hom phiaj ntawd, uas tsom mus rau lub luag haujlwm ntawm lub pov haum, tau tsim nyob rau xyoo 2008, ib feem hauv kev teb rau cov neeg siv khoom noj rau kev tsis sib haum xeeb-dawb pob zeb diamond.Lightbox yog tag nrho nrog cov tswv yim no. "Synthetics yog kev lom zem thiab zam, tab sis lawv tsis yog pob zeb diamond tiag tiag hauv kuv phau ntawv," Mr. Cleaver hais tias. "Lawv tsis tshua muaj los yog muab rau lub neej lub sijhawm zoo. Tsis yog lawv yuav tsum yog.