Mau Daimana, 'a Hanaia e ka Mekini

OXFORDSHIRE, ʻEnelani - Ma kahi hale ʻoihana keʻokeʻo ma nā puʻu ʻolokaʻa o ka ʻāina ʻEnelani he 16 mau mile mai ʻOxford, ʻo nā mīkini kālā i hoʻohālikelike ʻia e like me nā moku ākea i loko o nā hale hana nui. Ke hoʻohālikelike nei lākou i ke kaomi nui loa a me nā mahana i loaʻa i ka hohonu o ka ʻōpala o ka honua a hana, i loko o nā pule wale nō, ka mea i mālama ʻia i ka mōʻaukala i nā piliona makahiki wale nō: nā daimana kīnā ʻole. ʻO kēia ka Element Six Innovation Center, ka lima ʻoihana o De Beers, ka daimana behemoth i hana mines mai ka Arctic a hiki i Aferika Hema, i hana (a no ka hapa nui o ka 20th kenekulia hoomaluia) i ka honua daimana market, i hooiaio ai i ka honua "he daimana mau loa" a ua hana daimana synonymous me ke komo apo apo. no nā makahiki he nui e pili ana i nā mea like ʻole e like me nā mea hana no nā mea hoʻoheheʻe aila a me ke kinoea, nā lasers mana kiʻekiʻe a me nā ʻōnaehana leo ʻōlelo hou, ua neʻe nā ʻepekema De Beers ma Element Six i ka ʻāina hou i nā mahina i hala iho nei i ka wā i hoʻonohonoho ai ka hui i kāna mau ʻike. ma ka makeke waiwai, ua ha'alele 'o ia: ka hana 'ana i nā pōhaku synthetic. (E noʻonoʻo i kahi makana 16 maikaʻi, ʻaʻole ke apo hoʻopaʻa.) E hōʻike ʻia i loko o ka makana pahu pahu lole ʻulaʻula ʻulaʻula, keʻokeʻo a me ka pēpē-uliuli, kūʻai ʻia mai $200 no ka hapahā carat a i $800 no ka carat hoʻokahi. ʻO nā daimana i hana ʻia e nā hui e like me Diamond Foundry ma ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa a me New Diamond Technology o Rūsia ma ke ʻano he 30 a 40 pakeneka ka liʻiliʻi ma mua o ko lākou mau hoa kūlohelohe, ʻaʻole lākou ma kahi kokoke e like me ka nā mea mai Lightbox, ka mea e hoʻohaʻahaʻa i kona mau mea hoʻokūkū ma kahi o 75 pakeneka. Ma o kāna kumu kūʻai koʻikoʻi a me ke kūʻai ʻana i kuhikuhi ʻia, manaʻo nui ʻo De Beers e lilo i mea pāʻani nui i kēia mākeke ulu, ʻoiai e pale ana i kāna ʻoihana koʻikoʻi." e pili ana i ka ulu ʻana o ka mākeke daimana synthetic no kekahi manawa, ʻoi aku hoʻi i nā makahiki he ʻumi i hala iho nei, no ka mea, ua hoʻomaikaʻi ka maikaʻi o nā pōhaku a ua hoʻomaka ka hāʻule ʻana o nā kumukūʻai hana," wahi a Paul Zimnisky, he mea loiloi ʻoihana daimana kūʻokoʻa a me ke kūkākūkā.De Beers, ʻO ia ka mea e hoʻomalu nei ma kahi o 30 pakeneka o ka hoʻolako ʻana o ka honua i nā pōhaku i ʻeli ʻia (i lalo mai ka ʻelua hapakolu i ka makahiki 1998) a nona nā mea hoʻonaninani maikaʻi ʻo De Beers a me Forevermark, ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia e pane wale ana i ka noi o nā mea kūʻai. "Ma hope o kā mākou noiʻi ʻana, ʻike mākou i kahi ka manawa nui e komo ai i loko o ka mākeke mea hoʻonaninani i kēia manawa ma ka hana ʻana i kahi mea a ka poʻe kūʻai e haʻi mai iā mākou e makemake lākou akā ʻaʻohe mea ʻē aʻe i hana i kēia manawa: nā pōhaku synthetic i nā kala hou a leʻaleʻa, me ka nui o ka sparkle a ma ke kumu kūʻai maʻalahi loa. ʻO nā makana daimana i loaʻa i ka lab-grown," ʻo Bruce Cleaver, ka luna nui, i ʻōlelo ai i ka wā o kahi ninaninau kelepona. ʻAʻole hiki ke noʻonoʻo ʻia ka manaʻo ʻelua makahiki i hala aku nei, ʻoiai ʻo De Beers kahi ʻāpana o ka "Real Is Rare" e hakakā i ka hoʻolaha ʻana o ʻO nā pōhaku synthetic ma ke ʻano he mau mea ʻē aʻe i nā daimana i ʻeli ʻia e alakaʻi ʻia e ka Diamond Producers Association Campaign. ʻOiai ʻo nā pōhaku i hana ʻia e ke kanaka he 2 pakeneka wale nō o ka hoʻolako ʻana i ka ʻoihana daimana, ua wānana ka poʻe loiloi ma Citibank i ka piʻi ʻana i ka 10 pakeneka e 2030. Wahi a Zimnisky. "ʻAʻole kēia he mākeke e kokoke ana e hele." ʻAʻole like me nā daimana mined (ʻaʻole e like me nā pani daimana i hala e like me cubic zirconia, moissanite a i ʻole Swarovski crystals), ua hoʻohana ʻia nā daimana synthetic no nā hana ʻoihana. ʻO De Beers ponoʻī ke "ulu" daimana ma Element Six no 50 mau makahiki, e hana mālie ana i nā pōhaku mai kahi hui kinoea hydrocarbon i loko o kahi reactor kiʻekiʻe, kiʻekiʻe-mehana. a kūʻai aku iā lākou e like me ia, ua hoʻoholo ʻo De Beers, nona nā hoa eli ʻana me Rio Tinto a me Alrosa o Rūsia, ua hoʻoholo e lawe i ka hakakā no ka māhele makeke i ka pā hale hana. Ma waho aʻe o kāna mau hana kiʻekiʻe a me ka wela kiʻekiʻe, ke hoʻohana nei ʻo Element Six i kahi kaʻina hana hou i kapa ʻia ʻo C.V.D., a i ʻole ka hoʻoheheʻe ʻana i ka mahu kemika, e hoʻohana ana i ke kaomi haʻahaʻa i loko o kahi pahu hau i hoʻopiha ʻia me nā kinoea e hana ana i ka hana ʻana i nā papa kalapona e hoʻohui mālie i hoʻokahi. pōhaku. ʻOi aku ka maʻalahi o ke ala hou a ʻoi aku ka maʻalahi o ka nānā ʻana ma mua o ka mea kahiko a no laila hiki ke hoʻonui ʻia ma ke ʻano he ʻoihana waiwai." . Wahi a Clever. "Akā, loaʻa iā mākou ka pōmaikaʻi nui ma mua o nā mea ʻē aʻe, hāʻawi ʻia i ka ʻike-pehea a me nā ʻōnaehana i hāʻawi ʻia e Element Six. No laila, he mea ia a mākou i hoʻoholo ai e noʻonoʻo nui. He nīnau kokoke e pili ana i ka mea e wehewehe ai i ka daimana. ʻO ia kona ʻano kemika, ʻo ia ka hoʻopaʻapaʻa a nā mea hana synthetic a i ʻole ʻo ia kona kumu: i hana ʻia i loko o ka lepo e Mother Earth, ma mua o ka kuke ʻana i ka mīkini? huikau maopopo. Ma kahi koho balota o 2,011 mau mākua i alakaʻi ʻia i kēia mahina no ka Diamond Producers Association e Harris Insights & ʻO Analytics, 68 pakeneka i ʻōlelo ʻaʻole lākou i manaʻo i nā synthetics he mau daimana maoli, 16 pākēneka i ʻōlelo ua manaʻo lākou, a ʻo 16 pākēneka i ʻōlelo ʻaʻole lākou maopopo. Akā ʻo ka ʻae ʻana i kēia mau huahana hou e hiki ke hoʻololi i ka mākeke daimana, no ka mea, ʻo nā daimana i ulu ʻia e ka lab he pau ʻole replicable. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Sally Morrison, ke poʻo o ke kūʻai aku ʻana no Lightbox, ua manaʻo ʻia nā huahana o ka brand e nānā ʻia e nā mea kūʻai aku he mau mea pāʻani. "ʻO ka poʻe a pau ma kēia wahi e kālele ana i kā lākou kūʻai ʻana i ka māhele male," wahi a Ms. wahi a Morrison. "A ke manaʻoʻiʻo nei mākou e nalowale ana lākou i kahi manawa hoihoi loa: ʻo ka ʻoihana kūʻai ponoʻī a me ka wahine ʻōpio, ka wahine kahiko i loaʻa i kahi hōʻiliʻili nani," a me kēlā me kēia wahine "ʻaʻole makemake i ke kaumaha a me ke koʻikoʻi o kahi daimana maoli. ʻO ke ola o kēlā me kēia lā." Hoʻopuka ʻia ka ʻōlelo ʻoiai ua hoʻopaʻa inoa ʻia ʻo ia ʻo "nā daimana ulu i ka hale hana" a manaʻo ʻia e kūʻē i kahi pahu vevevet. Ua hana ʻia kahi hoʻolaha hoʻolaha hoʻolaha e Micaela Erlanger, ka mea i kaulana no ka hoʻokomo ʻana i ka mea hana keaka ʻo Lupita Nyongʻo no ka ʻulaʻula. Ke hōʻike nei i nā mea hoʻohālike like ʻole o nā hiʻohiʻona ʻōpio e kolo ana i nā pālule denim a me ka paʻa ʻana i nā sparklers a me ka ʻakaʻaka, hele mai nā hoʻolaha me nā huaʻōlelo e like me "Live, Laugh, Sparkle." ʻoihana," i ʻōlelo ai ʻo Steve Coe, ka luna nui o Lightbox, i kona kū ʻana ma kahi pahu aniani e like me ka nui o ke kīʻaha kīʻaha ma Element Six. Aia i loko he hua daimana, kahi pōhaku e ulu ana ma kahi o 0.0004 iniha i hoʻokahi hola. Ua neʻe ʻo Coe i De Beers 18 mau mahina i hala aku nei e aʻo i nā ala e pili ana i ka mākeke lole synthetic. "ʻAʻole wau hopohopo nui i nā poʻe ʻē aʻe," i ʻōlelo ai ʻo ia. "Ke hoʻonohonoho wale nei mākou i ka huahana ma ke kumukūʻai e pono ai, a ma kahi e kū ai i loko o ʻelima a ʻeono paha makahiki, no laila e hōʻoia i kā mākou mea kūʻai aku i kēia lā ʻaʻole hauʻoli nā mea kūʻai aku i ka lā ʻapōpō." Ua ʻeha nō hoʻi ʻo Coe e hōʻole i ka mea āna i kapa ai he nui o nā "hoʻopiʻi hoʻopunipuni a hoʻopunipuni" e pili ana i nā daimana synthetic: ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o nā mea ʻē aʻe i nā pōhaku i ʻeli ʻia, me nā kaulahao lako pōkole a me nā kapuaʻi kalapona liʻiliʻi." - nā daimana ulu, ua like ia me ka hale kiaʻi ʻo Eiffel i hoʻopaʻa ʻia ma kahi pahu Coke, "wahi āna. "Inā ʻoe e nānā i nā helu kikoʻī, aia nā pae hoʻohana ikehu ma waena o nā daimana kūlohelohe a me nā daimana i hana ʻia e ke kanaka i loko o ka ballpark hoʻokahi." Ua haʻalele ʻo ia i kāna monopoly i ka makahiki 2000, haʻalele i kāna kulekele 60-makahiki o ka mālama ʻana i ka lako a me ke koi e kālele i ka mining a me ke kūʻai aku ma kahi. ʻO kā lākou akamai hoʻolālā, ua komo ʻo De Beers i kahi hui hui me LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton a hoʻokumu ʻo De Beers Diamond Jewelry. (Ua papa ʻia ʻo De Beers e kūʻai pololei a hāʻawi aku paha i kāna mau daimana ma ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa ma muli o nā pilikia antitrust lōʻihi, mai ka wā i hoʻopaʻa ʻia ai.) I ka makahiki 2017, kūʻai aku ʻo De Beers i ka 50 pakeneka o ka LVMH e lawe i ka mana piha o ka brand.Owning Hāʻawi ka brand iā De Beers "i kahi ʻike maikaʻi loa i ka mea āu e manaʻo ai e uku nā kānaka no ka lako waena a me ka wā lōʻihi," wahi a Mr. Wahi a Clever. "He ʻoihana waiwai nui ia no mākou ma ia ʻano. ʻO ia hoʻi ʻo Forevermark." Ua hoʻokumu ʻia kēlā brand, e kālele ana i nā pōhaku i hoʻokumu ʻia i ke kuleana, i ka makahiki 2008, ma kahi ʻāpana e pane i ka makemake o nā mea kūʻai aku no nā daimana hakakā ʻole. "He leʻaleʻa a ʻano ʻano ʻo Synthetics, akā ʻaʻole lākou he daimana maoli i kaʻu puke," wahi a Mr. Wahi a Clever. "ʻAʻole lākou i loaʻa a hāʻawi ʻia i nā manawa nui o ke ola. ʻAʻole pono lākou.