Iidayimani zinguNaphakade, kwaye Zenziwe nguMatshini

I-OXFORDSHIRE, eNgilani - Kwisakhiwo esimhlophe semizi-mveliso kwiinduli eziqengqelekayo zamaphandle aseNgilani iikhilomitha ezili-16 ukusuka e-Oxford, oomatshini besilivere abame okweziphekepheke baduma ngaphakathi kwiilabhoratri ezinkulu. Baphindaphinda uxinzelelo olugqithisileyo kunye namaqondo obushushu afumaneka nzulu kuqweqwe lomhlaba kunye nokuvelisa, kwiiveki nje, oko ngokwembali indalo yayilawula kuphela kwiibhiliyoni zeminyaka: iidayimani ezingenasiphako. diamond behemoth eye yasebenza imigodi ukusuka Arctic ukuya eMzantsi Afrika, ukuba wadala (kwaye uninzi lwenkulungwane yama-20 elawulwa) imarike idayimani yehlabathi, ukuba waqinisekisa ihlabathi "idayimani ngonaphakade" kwaye oko kwenza idayimani isithethantonye kunye rings. Kangangamashumi eminyaka kwizinto ezahlukeneyo njengezixhobo zokuqhuba ioyile kunye nerhasi, iilaser ezinamandla aphezulu kunye nenkqubo yesithethi sezobugcisa, izazinzulu zeDe Beers kwi-Element Six ziye zafudukela kwindawo entsha kwiinyanga zamva nje njengoko inkampani ibeka izinto zayo. kwimarike enengeniso ngokwesiko yayiphetshwa: ukuveliswa kwamatye okwenziwa kobucwebe.NgoLwesibini, uDe Beers uya kwazisa i-Lightbox, ileyibhile yobucwebe befashoni ethengisa (ngokomlinganiselo) amatye anqabileyo ebhajethi ephantsi kunye nesibheno sentengiso enkulu. (Cinga ngesipho esiswiti se-16, hayi iringi yothethathethwano.) I-pastel pink, emhlophe kunye neblue-blue-lab-grown-lab-grown studs and pendants, amaxabiso asuka kuma $200 ngekota yecarat ukuya kwi $800 ngecarat enye, ziya kunikezelwa ngesipho sekhadibhodi enombala welekese. iibhokisi kwaye ekuqaleni zithengiswa ngokuthe ngqo kubathengi nge-e-commerce.Nangona iidayimani ezenziwe ziinkampani ezifana neDayimane Foundry eUnited States kunye neNew Diamond Technology yaseRussia idla ngokuxabisa i-30 ukuya kuma-40 ekhulwini ngaphantsi koogxa babo bendalo, akukho ndawo ikufutshane nexabiso eliphantsi njenge. abo bavela kwi-Lightbox, eya kubanciphisa abakhuphisana nabo malunga neepesenti ze-75. Ngexabiso layo elinobundlobongela kunye nokuthengisa okucacileyo, i-De Beers ijolise ngokucacileyo ukuba ngumdlali obalaseleyo kule marike ekhulayo, ngelixa kwangaxeshanye ikhusela ishishini layo eliphambili." malunga nokukhula kwemarike yezacholo zedayimani zokwenziwa kangangexesha elithile, ngakumbi kule minyaka ilishumi idlulileyo, njengoko umgangatho wamatye uphucukile kwaye neendleko zokuvelisa sele ziqalile ukwehla, utshilo uPaul Zimnisky, umhlalutyi ozimeleyo wedayimani kunye nomcebisi.De Beers, elawula malunga neepesenti ezingama-30 obonelelo lwehlabathi lwamatye emigodi (ehla ukusuka kwisibini kwisithathu ngo-1998) kwaye ingumnini weempawu zobucwebe ezintle iDe Beers kunye neForevermark, ithe ibisabela nje kwimfuno yabathengi. ithuba elikhulu lokungena kwimarike yobucwebe befashoni ngoku ngokwenza into abathengi abasixelela ukuba bayayifuna kodwa ekungekho mntu wumbi uyenzileyo: amatye okwenziwa ngemibala emitsha neyonwabisayo, akhazimlayo kwaye afikeleleke kakhulu kunexabiso. iminikelo yedayimane ekhoyo elebhu, "uBruce Cleaver, umphathi oyintloko, uthe ngexesha lodliwano-ndlebe lwefowuni. Le ngcamango yayiza kuba yinto engenakwenzeka kwiminyaka emibini edlulileyo, xa uDe Beers wayeyinxalenye yephulo elithi "Real Is Rare" lokulwa nokukhuthazwa. amatye okwenziwa njengezinye iidayimani ezembiweyo ezikhokelwa yiPhulo loMbutho wabavelisi beDayimane. Nangona amatye enziwe ngabantu athatha kuphela ipesenti ezi-2 zemveliso yedayimani, abahlalutyi baseCitibank baqikelele ukunyuka okunokwenzeka ukuya kwi-10 ekhulwini ngo-2030." Watsho uZimnisky. "Le asiyiyo imarike eza kuhamba." Ikhemikhali ifana nedayimani ezembiweyo (ngokungafaniyo nezinto ezithatha indawo yedayimane yexesha elidlulileyo ezifana ne-cubic zirconia, i-moissanite okanye i-Swarovski crystals), iidayimani zokwenziwa kudala zisetyenziselwa iinjongo zoshishino. I-De Beers ngokwayo iye "ikhula" idayimani kwi-Element Six iminyaka engama-50, ngokuthe ngcembe ivelisa amatye kumxube wegesi ye-hydrocarbon kwi-high-pressure, i-high-loat reactor. kunye nexabiso lawo ngokufanelekileyo, uDe Beers, oontanga bakhe basezimayini baquka iRio Tinto kunye neRashiya yaseAlrosa, ugqibe ekubeni athabathe umlo wesabelo semarike kwindawo yokusebenzela. Ecaleni koxinzelelo oluphezulu, imisebenzi yobushushu obuphezulu, i-Element Six isebenzisa inkqubo entsha eyaziwa ngokuba yi-CVD, okanye i-chemical vapour deposition, esebenzisa uxinzelelo oluphantsi kwivacuum ezaliswe ziigesi ezisabelayo ukwenza iileya zekhabhoni ezithi ngokuthe ngcembe zidibanise zibe yinto enye. ilitye. Indlela entsha inexabiso eliphantsi kwaye kulula ukuyijonga kunendala kwaye ngenxa yoko iyakwazi ukulinganiswa njengeshishini lezacholo. . Utshilo uCleaver. "Kodwa sinethuba elikhulu ngaphezu kwakhe wonke umntu, sinikwe ulwazi kunye neziseko ezibonelelwe ngu-Element Six. Ngoko yinto esigqibe kwelokuba sizimisele ngayo.” (Ishishini le-94 lezigidi zeerandi esakhiwa nguDe Beers eGresham, eOre., kulindeleke ukuba lenze isiqingatha sesigidi seekharati ezirhabaxa ngonyaka emva kokugqitywa kwaso ngo-2020.) umbuzo ophantse ube yimetaphysical wento echaza idayimani.Ingaba yikhemikhali yayo, eyingxoxo yabenzi bokwenziwa okanye ngaba imvelaphi yayo: idalwe nzulu emhlabeni nguMama woMhlaba, kunokuba iphekwe kumatshini? ngokuqondakalayo udidekile. Kuvoto lwabantu abadala abayi-2,011 olwenziwe kule nyanga kuMbutho wabaVelisi beDayimane nguHarris Insights. & Analytics, 68 ekhulwini bathi abazange bacinge synthetics ukuba idayimani yokwenene, 16 ekhulwini bathi babecinga ukuba, yaye 16 ekhulwini bathi abaqinisekanga. Kodwa ukwamkelwa kwezi mveliso zintsha kunamandla okuguqula imarike yedayimani, kuba iidayimani ezikhule kwilebhu ziphindaphindeka ngokungapheliyo. USally Morrison, intloko yentengiso ye-Lightbox, uthe iimveliso ze-brand zenzelwe ukujongwa ngabathengi njengezincedisi zokudlala. “Wonke umntu okule ndawo ugxile kwintengiso yakhe kudidi lwabatshati,” uNksz. Utshilo uMorrison. "Kwaye sikholelwa ukuba baphoswa lithuba elinomdla kakhulu: ingcali yokuzithengela kunye nomfazi omncinci, umfazi omdala osele eqokelele ubucwebe," kunye nawuphi na umfazi "ongafuni ubunzima kunye nobunzulu bedayimani yokwenene ubomi bemihla ngemihla."Umyalezo ugqithiswa nangona kukho ukupakishwa okubhalwe ngokucacileyo "iidayimani ezikhule kwilabhorethri" kwaye kujongwe ukuba zibe ngokuchaseneyo nebhokisi yevelvet. Iphulo lokusungula intengiso yenziwe nguMicaela Erlanger, owaduma ngokunxibisa umlingisi uLupita Nyong'o kwikhaphethi ebomvu. Zineentlobo ngeentlobo zeemodeli ezincinci ezigingqika kwiihempe zedenim kwaye zibambe izinto ezikhazimlayo kwaye zihleka, iintengiso ziza nethegi efana no "Live, Laugh, Sparkle." "Iidayimani ezenziwe ngabantu akufuneki zibize ngokufanayo namatye endalo - zahluke ngokupheleleyo. amashishini,” utshilo uSteve Coe, umphathi jikelele weLightbox, njengoko wayemi ngakwibhokisi yeglasi elingana nesitya sokujula e-Element Six. Ngaphakathi kwakukho imbewu yedayimane, apho ilitye lalikhula ngokumalunga ne-0.0004 intshi ngeyure.Owayesakuba ngusosayensi kunye nentloko ye-innovation kwi-Element Six, uMnu. UCoe wafudukela eDe Beers kwiinyanga ezili-18 ezidlulileyo ukuya kufunda iindlela zokuthengisa izacholo ezenziweyo. “Andikhathali kangako ngabanye abafana,” watsho. "Sibeka nje imveliso kwixabiso elifanele ukuba lilo, kwaye apho iya kuba khona kwiminyaka emihlanu okanye emithandathu, ngoko siqinisekisa ukuba abathengi bethu namhlanje ayingobathengi abangonwabanga ngomso." Ukongeza, uMnu. U-Coe naye wayesezintlungwini zokuchaza into awayeyibiza ngokuba "ngamabango alahlekisayo nabubuxoki" malunga needayimani ezenziweyo: ukuba zezona ndlela zizinzileyo kumatye ommbiwa, ngamatyathanga obonelelo olufutshane kunye neenyawo ezincinci zekhabhoni. -idayimani ezikhulileyo, zifana ne-Eiffel Tower ebekwe kwitoti yeCoke, "utshilo. "Ukuba ujonga amanani acacisiweyo, amanqanaba okusetyenziswa kwamandla phakathi kwedayimani zendalo kunye nezenziwe ngabantu zikwindawo yebhola yebhola enye. "Eli ayiloxesha lokuqala uDe Beers edale iimpawu kunye nezicwangciso zentengiso ekuphenduleni ukuphazamiseka kwimarike yedayimani ukusukela oko. yanikezela ngolawulo lwayo ngo-2000, ishiya umgaqo-nkqubo wayo we-60 wokulawula ukubonelela kunye nemfuno yokugxila kwimigodi kunye nokuthengisa endaweni yoko.Ngo-2002, emva kokuba iimveliso zefashoni ezifana ne-Dior kunye ne-Chanel zaqala ukungena ngokunyanisekileyo kwiimarike zobucwebe obuhle, zithengisa ukubaluleka ubuchule babo bokuyila, De Beers wangena kwindibaniselwano kunye LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton kwaye waseka De Beers Diamond Jewelry. (I-De Beers yayinqatshelwe ukuthengisa ngokuthe ngqo okanye ukusabalalisa iidayimani zayo e-United States ngenxa yemibandela ye-antitrust yexesha elide, ekubeni ihlaziywe.) Kwi-2017, u-De Beers wathenga i-50 yepesenti yesigxina se-LVMH ukuba athathe ulawulo olupheleleyo lwe-brand.Owning uphawu lunika uDe Beers "umbono ongcono kakhulu malunga noko ucinga ukuba abantu baya kuhlawula unikezelo oluphakathi kunye nexesha elide," uMnu. Utshilo uCleaver. “Lishishini elixabiseke kakhulu kuthi ngaloo ndlela. Kunjalo nakwi-Forevermark." Olo phawu, olugxile kumatye anqabileyo afunyenwe ngokuthembekileyo, lwenziwa ngo-2008, ngokuyinxenye ukuphendula kumdla wabathengi kwiidayimani ezingenangquzulwano.I-Lightbox ihambelana ngokupheleleyo nesi sicwangciso. "I-Synthetics iyonwabile kwaye isefashonini, kodwa ayizizo iidayimani zokwenyani kwincwadi yam," uMnu. Utshilo uCleaver. “Azinqabile okanye zinikwe ngamaxesha amnandi obomi. Kananjalo akufanele kube njalo.