Lu'u-lu'u Suna Dawwama,' kuma Na'ura Ne Ke Yi

OXFORDSHIRE, Ingila - A cikin wani farar ginin masana'antu a cikin tsaunin ƙauyen Ingilishi mai nisan mil 16 daga Oxford, injunan azurfa masu siffa kamar jiragen ruwa na sararin samaniya suna cikin manyan dakunan gwaje-gwaje. Suna maimaita matsananciyar matsin lamba da yanayin zafi da aka samu a cikin ɓawon ƙasa kuma suna samar da, a cikin makonni kawai, abin da yanayin tarihi ya sarrafa kawai sama da biliyoyin shekaru: lu'u-lu'u marasa aibu. lu'u-lu'u behemoth wanda ya sarrafa ma'adinai daga Arctic zuwa Afirka ta Kudu, wanda ya halitta (kuma ga mafi yawan karni na 20 da aka sarrafa) kasuwar lu'u-lu'u ta duniya, wanda ya shawo kan duniya "lu'u lu'u-lu'u ne har abada" kuma ya sanya lu'u-lu'u ya zama daidai da zoben hannu. shekaru da yawa akan abubuwa daban-daban kamar kayan aikin mai da iskar gas, lasers masu ƙarfi da kuma tsarin magana na zamani, masana kimiyya De Beers a Element shida sun koma cikin sabon yanki a cikin 'yan watannin nan yayin da kamfanin ke tsara abubuwan gani. A kasuwa mai riba da al'ada ya guje wa: samar da duwatsun kayan ado na roba. A ranar Talata, De Beers za ta gabatar da Lightbox, alamar kayan ado na kayan ado mai sayar da (dangane) ƙananan kayan ado masu daraja tare da kasuwa mai yawa. (Ka yi tunanin kyautar 16 mai dadi, ba zoben haɗin gwiwa ba.) Pastel ruwan hoda, fari da baby-blue studs da pendants, farashin daga $200 don carat kwata zuwa $ 800 na carat ɗaya, za a gabatar da shi a cikin kyautar kwali mai launin alewa. kwalaye kuma da farko ana sayar da su kai tsaye ga masu amfani da ita ta hanyar kasuwancin e-commerce.Duk da cewa lu'u-lu'u da kamfanoni ke yi kamar Diamond Foundry a Amurka da Sabuwar Fasahar Diamond ta Rasha yawanci farashin 30 zuwa 40 cikin 100 kasa da takwarorinsu na dabi'a, ba su kusa da arha kamar wadanda daga Lightbox, wanda zai rage masu fafatawa da shi da kusan kashi 75. Ta hanyar farashi mai tsanani da tallace-tallace mai nunawa, De Beers a fili yana nufin ya zama babban dan wasa a wannan kasuwa mai girma, yayin da yake kare ainihin kasuwancinsa. game da ci gaban kasuwar kayan ado na lu'u-lu'u na roba na ɗan lokaci, musamman a cikin shekaru goma da suka gabata, yayin da ingancin duwatsun ya inganta kuma farashin masana'anta ya fara faɗuwa," in ji Paul Zimnisky, manazarcin masana'antar lu'u-lu'u mai zaman kanta kuma mai ba da shawara.De Beers, wanda ke sarrafa kusan kashi 30 cikin 100 na samar da duwatsun da ake hakowa a duniya (sau daga kashi biyu bisa uku a shekarar 1998) kuma ya mallaki manyan samfuran kayan ado na De Beers da Forevermark, ya ce yana amsa buƙatun mabukaci ne kawai. babbar dama don shiga cikin kasuwar kayan ado na kayan ado a yanzu ta hanyar yin wani abu da masu amfani suka gaya mana cewa suna so amma babu wanda ya yi tukuna: duwatsun roba a cikin sababbin launuka masu ban sha'awa, tare da ƙyalli da yawa kuma a farashin farashi mai nisa fiye da hadayun lu'u-lu'u masu girma da ake da su," Bruce Cleaver, babban jami'in gudanarwa, ya ce yayin wata hira ta wayar tarho. Tunanin da ya kasance wanda ba a iya tunanin ko da shekaru biyu da suka gabata, lokacin da De Beers ya kasance wani bangare na yakin "Real Is Rare" don yaki da talla Duwatsun roba a matsayin madadin lu'u-lu'u da aka haƙa a ƙarƙashin jagorancin Ƙungiyar Masu Shirya Diamond. Duk da cewa duwatsun da mutum ya kera ya kai kusan kashi 2 cikin 100 na kayayyakin da masana'antar lu'u-lu'u ke samarwa, manazarta a Citibank sun yi hasashen yuwuwar hauhawar kashi 10 cikin 100 nan da shekarar 2030. Zimnisky ya ce. "Wannan ba kasuwa ce da ke shirin tafiya ba." A kimiyyance kama da lu'u-lu'u da aka haƙa (sabanin lu'u-lu'u da aka maye gurbinsu da su kamar cubic zirconia, moissanite ko lu'ulu'u na Swarovski), an daɗe ana amfani da lu'u-lu'u na roba don dalilai na masana'antu. De Beers da kansa ya kasance "girma" lu'u-lu'u a Element shida na shekaru 50, a hankali yana samar da duwatsu daga cakuda gas na hydrocarbon a cikin babban matsi mai zafi mai zafi. da kuma farashin su daidai da haka, De Beers, wanda takwarorinsa na hakar ma'adinai sun hada da Rio Tinto da Alrosa na Rasha, ya yanke shawarar kai yakin neman kasuwa zuwa dakin gwaje-gwaje. Tare da matsanancin matsin lamba, ayyukan zafin jiki, Element Six yana amfani da sabon tsari da aka sani da C.V.D., ko jigilar sinadarai, wanda ke amfani da ƙaramin matsa lamba a cikin injin da ke cike da iskar gas wanda ke amsawa don ƙirƙirar yadudduka na carbon wanda sannu a hankali ya haɗu zuwa guda ɗaya. dutse. Sabuwar hanyar tana da arha kuma mai sauƙin saka idanu fiye da tsohuwar kuma don haka tana iya haɓaka matsayin kasuwancin kayan ado." . Cleaver ya ce. "Amma muna da fa'ida mai yawa fiye da kowa, idan aka yi la'akari da fasaha da kayan aikin da Element Six ya samar. Don haka wani abu ne da muka yanke shawarar zama da gaske a kai." Tambayar da ke kusantar abin da ke bayyana lu'u-lu'u. Shin tsarin sinadarai ne, wanda shine hujjar masana'antun roba ko kuma kasancewarsa: wanda aka halicce shi a cikin ƙasa ta hanyar Mother Earth, maimakon dafa shi a cikin na'ura? fahimta a rude. A cikin kuri'a na manya 2,011 da aka gudanar a wannan watan don Ƙungiyar Masu Shirya Diamond ta Harris Insights. & Nazari, kashi 68 cikin 100 sun ce ba sa la'akarin roba a matsayin lu'u-lu'u na gaske, kashi 16 cikin 100 sun ce suna tunanin su ne, kashi 16 kuma sun ce ba su da tabbas. Amma yarda da waɗannan sabbin samfuran yana da yuwuwar canza kasuwar lu'u-lu'u, saboda lu'u-lu'u masu girma a cikin lab ba su da iyaka. "Kowane wanda ke cikin wannan sararin yana mai da hankali kan tallan su akan nau'in amarya," Ms. Morrison ya ce. "Kuma mun yi imani da cewa sun rasa wani damar mai ban sha'awa mai ban sha'awa mai ban sha'awa: ƙwararrun ƙwararrun masu siyar da kansu da kuma ƙaramar mace, tsohuwar mace wacce ta riga ta sami tarin kayan ado," da kowace mace "wanda ba ya son nauyi da mahimmancin lu'u-lu'u na gaske don rayuwar yau da kullum." Ana isar da saƙon duk da cewa an yi marufi da aka yi wa lakabi da "lu'ulu'u-lu'u-lu'u masu girma" da nufin zama akasin akwatin karammiski. Micaela Erlanger ne ya shirya wani kamfen na farko, wanda ya shahara wajen sanya wa ’yar fim Lupita Nyong’o tufatar jan kafet. Nuna simintin simintin gyare-gyare na samari daban-daban waɗanda ke tsalle cikin rigunan denim da riƙon walƙiya da dariya, tallace-tallacen sun zo da layukan rubutu kamar "Rayuwa, dariya, kyalkyali." "Bai kamata lu'u lu'u-lu'u da mutum ya yi tsada daidai da duwatsun halitta ba - da gaske sun bambanta gaba ɗaya. kasuwanci, "Steve Coe, babban manajan Lightbox, ya ce yayin da yake tsaye kusa da akwatin gilashin girman kwano a Element Six. A ciki akwai nau'in lu'u-lu'u, wanda dutse ke tsirowa kusan inci 0.0004 a cikin sa'a guda. Wani tsohon masanin kimiyya kuma shugaban kirkire-kirkire a Element Six, Mr. Coe ya koma De Beers watanni 18 da suka gabata don nazarin hanyoyin zuwa kasuwar kayan ado na roba. "Ni ban damu da sauran mutanen ba," in ji shi. "Muna sanya samfurin a farashin da ya kamata, da kuma inda zai kasance a cikin shekaru biyar ko shida, don haka tabbatar da cewa abokan cinikinmu a yau ba abokan ciniki ba ne marasa farin ciki gobe." Bugu da ƙari, Mr. Har ila yau Coe ya ji zafi don ya musanta abin da ya kira da yawa daga cikin "da'awar yaudara da yaudara" a kusa da lu'u-lu'u na roba: cewa sun kasance mafi ɗorewa madadin duwatsun da aka haƙa, tare da gajeren sarƙoƙi da ƙananan sawun carbon. - lu'u-lu'u masu girma, yana kama da Hasumiyar Eiffel da aka jera akan gwangwanin Coke," in ji shi. "Idan ka dubi cikakkun lambobi, matakan amfani da makamashi tsakanin lu'u-lu'u na halitta da na mutum sun kasance a cikin ballpark iri ɗaya." Wannan ba shine karo na farko da De Beers ya kirkiro samfurori da dabarun talla don mayar da martani ga rushewa a kasuwar lu'u-lu'u ba tun lokacin. A shekara ta 2002, ya ba da ikon mallakarsa a cikin 2000, yana watsar da manufofinsa na shekaru 60 na sarrafa wadata da buƙatu don mai da hankali kan hakar ma'adinai da tallace-tallace maimakon. Ƙwarewar ƙirar su, De Beers ya shiga cikin haɗin gwiwa tare da LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton kuma ya kafa De Beers Diamond Jewelry. (An hana De Beers sayar da lu'u-lu'u kai tsaye ko rarraba lu'u-lu'u a cikin Amurka saboda daɗaɗɗen batutuwan antitrust, tun lokacin da aka daidaita.) A cikin 2017, De Beers ya sayi hannun jari na kashi 50 na LVMH don ɗaukar cikakken ikon mallakar alamar. Alamar tana ba De Beers "kyakkyawan ra'ayi game da abin da kuke tsammanin mutane za su biya don samar da matsakaici da na dogon lokaci," Mr. Cleaver ya ce. “Kasuwa ce ta musamman a gare mu ta wannan ma’ana. Haka ma Forevermark." Wannan alamar, wacce ke mai da hankali kan duwatsu masu daraja, an ƙirƙira su a cikin 2008, wani ɓangare don mayar da martani ga sha'awar mabukaci na lu'u-lu'u marasa rikici. Akwatin haske yana da cikakken dacewa da wannan dabarun. "Synthetics suna da daɗi kuma suna da kyan gani, amma ba ainihin lu'u-lu'u ba ne a cikin littafina," Mr. Cleaver ya ce. "Ba su da wuya ko kuma a ba su a lokuta masu kyau na rayuwa. Haka kuma bai kamata su kasance ba.