Ma diamondi Ndi Kwamuyaya, 'ndipo Amapangidwa ndi Makina

OXFORDSHIRE, England - M'nyumba yoyera yamafakitale m'mapiri otsetsereka a kumidzi yaku England mtunda wa mamailosi 16 kuchokera ku Oxford, makina asiliva owoneka ngati zombo zakuthambo amalira mkati mwa ma laboratories akulu. Iwo akubwereza kupsyinjika kwakukulu ndi kutentha komwe kumapezeka pansi pa nthaka ndikutulutsa, m'masabata ochepa chabe, zomwe chilengedwe chinatha zaka mabiliyoni ambiri: diamondi zopanda cholakwika.Iyi ndi Element Six Innovation Center, mkono wa mafakitale wa De Beers, diamondi behemoth kuti wagwira ntchito migodi ku Arctic kuti South Africa, amene analenga (ndipo ambiri a zaka za m'ma 20 ankalamulira) msika wa diamondi padziko lonse, amene anatsimikizira dziko "diamondi ndi kosatha" ndipo anapanga diamondi n'chimodzimodzi ndi chinkhoswe mphete.Focused kwa zaka zambiri pazinthu zosiyanasiyana monga zida zopangira mafuta ndi gasi, ma lasers amphamvu kwambiri komanso makina olankhula amakono, asayansi a De Beers ku Element Six asamukira kudera latsopano m'miyezi yaposachedwa pomwe kampaniyo ikukonzekera zowonera. Pamsika wopindulitsa womwe mwamwambo ankaukana: kupanga miyala yodzikongoletsera yopangidwa.Lachiwiri, De Beers adzayambitsa Lightbox, chizindikiro cha zodzikongoletsera zodzikongoletsera zogulitsa (pafupifupi) miyala yamtengo wapatali yamtengo wapatali yomwe ili ndi malonda ambiri. (Ganizirani mphatso yokoma 16, osati mphete ya chinkhoswe.) Zovala zapastel pinki, zoyera ndi zolendala zabuluu zokhala ndi labu, zamtengo kuchokera pa $200 pa quarter carat kufika ku $800 pa carat imodzi, zidzaperekedwa mumphatso yamakatoni amitundu yamaswiti. Ngakhale kuti diamondi zopangidwa ndi makampani monga Diamond Foundry ku United States ndi New Diamond Technology yaku Russia nthawi zambiri zimawononga 30 mpaka 40 peresenti poyerekeza ndi anzawo achilengedwe, sizili zotsika mtengo ngati kuchokera ku Lightbox, yomwe idzachepetse omwe akupikisana nawo ndi pafupifupi 75 peresenti. Kupyolera mumtengo wake wamtengo wapatali ndi malonda odziwika bwino, De Beers ikufuna kukhala mtsogoleri pa msika womwe ukukula, pamene ikuteteza bizinesi yake yaikulu." za kukula kwa msika wa zodzikongoletsera za diamondi kwa nthawi yayitali, makamaka m'zaka khumi zapitazi, popeza miyala yamtengo wapatali yapita patsogolo ndipo ndalama zopangira zidayamba kutsika," adatero Paul Zimnisky, katswiri wodziyimira pawokha wamakampani a diamondi komanso mlangizi.De Beers. yomwe imayang'anira pafupifupi 30 peresenti ya miyala yokumbidwa padziko lonse lapansi (kutsika kuchokera pa magawo awiri pa atatu aliwonse mu 1998) ndipo ili ndi zodzikongoletsera zabwino za De Beers ndi Forevermark, idati ikungoyankha zofuna za ogula." mwayi waukulu wolowa mumsika wa zodzikongoletsera za mafashoni tsopano pochita zomwe ogula amatiuza kuti akufuna koma zomwe palibe wina wachitapo: miyala yopangidwa mumitundu yatsopano ndi yosangalatsa, yonyezimira kwambiri komanso pamtengo wofikirika kwambiri kuposa Zopereka za diamondi zomwe zidalipo kale, "adatero Bruce Cleaver, wamkulu wamkulu, panthawi yofunsa mafunso pafoni. Miyala yopangidwa m'malo mwa diamondi yokumbidwa motsogozedwa ndi Diamond Producers Association Campaign. Ngakhale miyala yopangidwa ndi anthu imatenga pafupifupi 2 peresenti yokha ya zinthu za diamondi, akatswiri ofufuza ku Citibank aneneratu kuti akwera mpaka 10 peresenti pofika chaka cha 2030. adatero Zimnisky. "Uwu si msika womwe watsala pang'ono kutha." Chemical yofanana ndi diamondi yokumbidwa (mosiyana ndi zida za dayamondi zakale monga cubic zirconia, moissanite kapena Swarovski crystals), ma diamondi opangidwa akhala akugwiritsidwa ntchito kwa mafakitale. De Beers mwiniwake wakhala "akukula" diamondi ku Element Six kwa zaka 50, pang'onopang'ono akupanga miyala kuchokera ku gasi wa hydrocarbon osakaniza muzitsulo zothamanga kwambiri, zotentha kwambiri. ndi kuwagulitsa molingana, a De Beers, omwe anzawo aku migodi akuphatikiza Rio Tinto ndi Alrosa waku Russia, aganiza zolimbana ndi gawo la msika ku labotale. Pamodzi ndi ntchito yake yothamanga kwambiri, yotentha kwambiri, Element Six ikugwiritsa ntchito njira yatsopano yotchedwa C.V.D., kapena kuyika kwa nthunzi yamankhwala, yomwe imagwiritsa ntchito kutsika kochepa mu vacuum yodzaza ndi mpweya womwe umachita kupanga zigawo za kaboni zomwe zimalumikizana pang'onopang'ono kukhala chinthu chimodzi. mwala. Njira yatsopanoyi ndiyotsika mtengo komanso yosavuta kuwunika kuposa yakaleyo motero imatha kukhala yowopsa ngati bizinesi yodzikongoletsera. . Cleaver anatero. "Koma tili ndi mwayi waukulu kuposa wina aliyense, chifukwa cha luso komanso zomangamanga zomwe zimaperekedwa ndi Element Six. Chifukwa chake tasankha kuchitapo kanthu mwachangu." (Fayilo ya $94 miliyoni yomwe De Beers akumanga ku Gresham, Ore., ikuyembekezeka kupanga ma carat owopsa theka la miliyoni pachaka ikamalizidwa mu 2020.) Funso lodziwika bwino la zomwe zimatanthawuza diamondi. momveka kusokonezeka. Pakafukufuku wa akulu 2,011 omwe adachita mwezi uno ku Diamond Producers Association ndi Harris Insights. & Analytics, 68 peresenti adanena kuti samawona zopangira kukhala diamondi zenizeni, 16 peresenti adanena kuti akuganiza kuti anali, ndipo 16 peresenti adanena kuti sakudziwa. Koma kuvomereza zinthu zatsopanozi kuli ndi mwayi wosintha msika wa diamondi, chifukwa diamondi zomwe zakula ndi labu zimakhala zosasinthika. "Aliyense yemwe ali pamalowa akuyang'ana kwambiri malonda awo pagulu la akwatibwi," a Ms. Morrison anatero. "Ndipo timakhulupirira kuti akusowa mwayi wosangalatsa kwambiri: katswiri wodzigula yekha ndi mkazi wamng'ono, mkazi wamkulu yemwe ali kale ndi zodzikongoletsera," ndi mkazi aliyense" amene safuna kulemera ndi kuopsa kwa diamondi yeniyeni moyo watsiku ndi tsiku."Uthengawu umaperekedwa ngakhale m'matumba olembedwa momveka bwino kuti "maamondi omera mu labotale" ndipo cholinga chake ndi kukhala chosiyana ndi bokosi la velvet. Kampeni yotsatsa idapangidwa ndi Micaela Erlanger, yemwe adadziwika bwino chifukwa choveka wojambula Lupita Nyong'o pa kapeti yofiyira. Pokhala ndi mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya atsikana omwe amavala malaya a denim ndikugwira zonyezimira ndikuseka, zotsatsazi zimabwera ndi zilembo ngati "Live, Laugh, Sparkle." mabizinesi," Steve Coe, manejala wamkulu wa Lightbox, adatero atayimirira pafupi ndi bokosi lagalasi lofanana ndi mbale ya bowling ku Element Six. Mkati mwake munali mbewu ya diamondi, yomwe mwala unkakula pafupifupi inchi 0.0004 pa ola. Asayansi wakale komanso wamkulu waukadaulo ku Element Six, Mr. Coe adasamukira ku De Beers miyezi 18 yapitayo kuti akaphunzire njira zogulira zodzikongoletsera. "Sindikuda nkhawa ndi anyamata enawo," adatero. "Tikungoyika malonda pamtengo womwe uyenera kukhala, komanso komwe zikhala zaka zisanu kapena zisanu ndi chimodzi, motero tikuwonetsetsa kuti makasitomala athu lero sakhala makasitomala osasangalala mawa." Kuphatikiza apo, Mr. Coe adamvanso zowawa kutsutsa zomwe adazitcha zambiri "zabodza komanso zabodza" zokhudzana ndi diamondi zopangidwa: kuti ndi njira zina zokhazikika m'malo mwa miyala yokumbidwa, yokhala ndi maunyolo amfupi komanso magawo ang'onoang'ono a kaboni. - diamondi zokulirapo, zikufanana ndi Eiffel Tower yomwe idayikidwa pachitini cha Coke, "adatero. "Mukayang'ana mwatsatanetsatane manambala, kuchuluka kwa mphamvu zogwiritsira ntchito mphamvu pakati pa diamondi zachilengedwe ndi zopangidwa ndi anthu zili mu ballpark yomweyi." Aka si koyamba kuti De Beers apangire malonda ndi njira zotsatsa poyankha kusokonezeka kwa msika wa diamondi kuyambira pamenepo. idasiya kulamulira mu 2000, kusiya mfundo zake zazaka 60 zowongolera zoperekera ndi kufuna kuyang'ana kwambiri pamigodi ndi kutsatsa m'malo mwake. ukatswiri wawo wa kamangidwe, De Beers adalowa nawo mgwirizano ndi LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton ndipo adayambitsa De Beers Diamond Jewelry. (De Beers anali ataletsedwa kugulitsa mwachindunji kapena kugawira diamondi zake ku United States chifukwa cha nkhani zotsutsana ndi nthawi yayitali, kuyambira atakhazikika.) Mu 2017, De Beers adagula gawo la 50 peresenti la LVMH kuti ayambe kulamulira chizindikirocho. mtunduwo umapatsa a De Beers "mawonedwe abwinoko pazomwe mukuganiza kuti anthu azilipira pazopereka zapakatikati komanso zazitali," a Mr. Cleaver anatero. "Ndi bizinesi yofunika kwambiri kwa ife mwanjira imeneyi. Momwemonso Forevermark." Mtunduwu, womwe umayang'ana kwambiri miyala yamtengo wapatali yosungidwa bwino, udapangidwa mu 2008, mwa zina chifukwa cha chidwi cha ogula cha diamondi zopanda mikangano. "Zopangapanga ndizosangalatsa komanso zapamwamba, koma si diamondi zenizeni m'buku langa," a Mr. Cleaver anatero. "Iwo si osowa kapena amaperekedwa pa nthawi zabwino za moyo. Komanso sayenera kukhala.