Fake Amatenga Malo Ake Pamwamba Pamwamba

Zidutswa zomwe zimagulitsidwa m'misewu yayikulu padziko lonse lapansi pafupifupi ma 1 tambala zimapangidwa mochuluka ndi makina ogwiritsira ntchito zipangizo zotsika mtengo zomwe zingatheke, kotero kuti "golide" kapena "siliva" chip mosavuta ndi miyala kugwa.

Ma fake okwera mtengo amapangidwa ndi zida zapamwamba kwambiri pamanja. Sikuti amangokhala olimba, koma amawonetsanso bwino.

Mwala woika pamanja, ngakhale utakhala weniweni, ukhoza kusintha momwe umanyezimira. Ngati icho chayikidwa chotsika kwambiri, palibe kuwala kokwanira kumachigunda icho kuti chimanyezimira diso; yokwera kwambiri, ndipo ili pachiwopsezo chotuluka.

Nathalie Colin, wotsogolera kulenga wa Swarovski, anati, "Mukadziwa masitepe onse ndi luso lamakono kumbuyo kwake, mudzawona kuti likuyenera mtengo." Swarovski imapanga zodzikongoletsera zokhala ndi kristalo wake, ndi mitengo yomwe imayambira pansi pa $ 100 koma imakwera pamwamba pake. Ndi ntchito yapadziko lonse lapansi, yokhala ndi fakitale yake yoyambirira ya kristalo ku Wattens, Austria; fakitale ku Thailand kumene ntchito zambiri zamanja zimagwiridwa; ndi maofesi ku Paris, kumene mapangidwe amapangidwa.

Chigawo chilichonse chimayamba ndi lingaliro loyambitsidwa ndi olosera zam'makampani. Zomwe adawona m'nyengo yachilimwe ndi chilimwe zikubwera "mbali ziwiri, monga momwe zimakhalira nthawi zambiri," adatero Colin. "Kumbali imodzi, pali chizolowezi cha anthu okongola komanso osangalala. Kumbali inayi, pali zosiyana: zowonongeka kwambiri, zochepa komanso zamakono ndi kukhudza kowala. Ndipo mtundu uliwonse umachokera kuchitsulo, golide wachikasu amabwerera ndi golide wambiri wa rozi.” Gulu la anthu okonza mapulani 35 limapanga zojambula 1,500 nyengo iliyonse, ndipo 400 amasankhidwa, Colin anatero.

Mpaka zitsanzo zitatu zimapangidwa kuchokera ku chidutswa chilichonse; amawunikidwa pa kuvala, pakati pa zinthu zina. Kenako chidutswacho chimayikidwa mu kupanga, "monga zodzikongoletsera zabwino, zonse zopangidwa ndi manja, ndi kudula miyala, kupukuta zitsulo, kuika miyala, zonse zamanja," adatero Colin.

Mkanda wina wochokera ku kasupe / chilimwe cha 2015, Celeste choker, anabadwa "miyezi 20 yapitayo pamene tinayamba kuganizira za minda ndi kufunikira kogwirizanitsanso ndi chilengedwe," adatero.

Mkanda womalizidwawo uli ndi makhiristo odulidwa ndi manja a 2,000, aliyense amapaka pamanja pa Plexiglas disc kuti apange maziko okhala ndi miyala 220 ya amethyst, turquoise, blue opal ndi emarodi yoyikidwa mu resin kuti apereke mawonekedwe a maluwa osawoneka bwino. Mtengo: $799.

Mosiyana ndi izi, Andrew Prince ndi ntchito ya munthu m'modzi, ndipo zodzikongoletsera zake zimatha kuwononga madola masauzande ambiri. Kaya akupanga zodzikongoletsera za "Downton Abbey" kapena zolemba zake zodziwika bwino, Prince amadzipangira yekha chidutswa chilichonse ndikuchipanga pamanja pakampani yake ku East End ku London.

Iye ndi katswiri pa mbiri ya zodzikongoletsera, ndipo waphunzitsa ku Victoria ndi Albert Museum. Amayang'ana m'masitolo akale komanso m'mafakitale akale kuti apeze miyala yakale, yodulidwa ndi mbali zochepa kotero kuti inkanyezimira pang'ono koma yonyezimira ndi mitundu.

Akuti amasangalala kugwira ntchito zodzikongoletsera chifukwa zimamupatsa ufulu womwe kusamalira miyala yamtengo wapatali sikungatero. Mwachitsanzo, anapangira lamba wa chovala chamadzulo chokhala ndi sitima ya "diamondi" yomwe inkayenda kumbuyo, chinthu chosatheka ndi miyala yeniyeni.

Zovala zamtengo wapatali sizimangopangidwa ndi kristalo kapena magalasi odulidwa kuti azitengera miyala yamtengo wapatali, ndipo izi zakula ndi kutchuka kwa zodzikongoletsera, nthawi zina zopangidwa kuchokera kuzinthu zosayembekezereka kapena zobwezerezedwanso.

"Dziko la zodzikongoletsera linatsegukadi m'ma 1970," atero a Josephine Chanter, wamkulu wa zolumikizirana ku Design Museum ku London. “Okonza zodzikongoletsera anayamba kugwiritsa ntchito zinthu zopanda pake. Zodzikongoletsera sizinali za mtengo wa zipangizo, koma mtengo wa mapangidwe ake." Poyang'ana m'ndandanda wa chionetsero cha nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale cha 2012, "Zosangalatsa Zosayembekezereka: Art ndi Design of Contemporary Jewelry," akunena kuti pafupifupi chirichonse chinaganiziridwa. masewera chilungamo: anamva, akiliriki, misomali, fupa, matabwa, zikopa ndi zina zotero.

Zodzikongoletsera zodzikongoletsera zimatha kupatsa wovalayo ufulu wambiri, nayenso.

Judieanne Colusso, wogulitsa nyumba ndi Colours of Tuscany ku Florence, Italy, ali ndi zodzikongoletsera zenizeni (ndi mwana wamkazi wophunzitsidwa gemology ku London). Komabe, "Ndimakonda zodzikongoletsera, makamaka ndolo chifukwa zimatha kukhala zazikulu kuposa moyo," adalemba mu imelo. "Sikuti nthawi zonse amakhala ndi ndalama zambiri koma amakweza kwambiri chovala ndi nkhope yanu." Zomwe amakonda, iye anati, ndi zingwe zasiliva "zokhala ndi tizidutswa tating'ono tamtendere ndi mauthenga a karma abwino olembedwapo, ndi timiyala tating'ono tabuluu." Wokonda wina wabodza ndi Stefania Fabbro waku Milan, yemwe watsala pang'ono kuwonetsa zodzikongoletsera, Mediterranea, kuphatikiza nsalu ndi miyala yamtengo wapatali.

"Ndimakonda zodzikongoletsera chifukwa zimandilola kuvala zidutswa zamtengo wapatali zomwe zimawoneka zapamwamba popanda mtengo wa zodzikongoletsera," adalemba mu imelo. "Banja langa limayenda pafupipafupi, kotero ndimakonda kuti zidutswazi zimatha kupirira kupakidwa ndi kutulutsidwa." Ngakhale phala (mtundu wagalasi lotsogola lomwe limatha kupukutidwa kuti kunyezimira ngati diamondi) linkagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati zodzikongoletsera kuyambira zaka za m'ma 1720, zidakhala zaka 200 Coco Chanel asanapange zabodza kukhala zamafashoni.

Iye anali couturier woyamba kugulitsa zodzikongoletsera, mu boutique yake pa Rue Cambon ku Paris. Panthawi yake yopuma, adanena kuti ankakonda kukhala ndi sera ndikupanga zojambula zodzikongoletsera, zomwe pambuyo pake zinapangidwa ndi zitsulo zamtundu wa golidi ndi mikanda yagalasi yosungunuka kuti iwoneke ngati miyala yamtengo wapatali kapena zingwe za ngale, siginecha yake. Ataunjikira zonse, makasitomala ake anachitanso chimodzimodzi.

Ngati masiku ano zodzikongoletsera za "mafashoni" ndizofanana ndi "zovala," ndipo ngati mlengi aliyense ali ndi zosonkhanitsa zake, zinayamba, monga momwe amachitira ndi Chanel.

New York Times News Service