Inkohliso Ithatha Indawo Yayo Ekugcineni Okuphakeme

Izingcezu ezithengiswa emigwaqweni emikhulu emhlabeni jikelele ngamasenti akhiqizwa ngobuningi ngemishini esebenzisa izinto ezingabizi kakhulu, ukuze "igolide" noma "isiliva" licwebezele kalula futhi kuphume amatshe.

Ama-fake abizayo enziwa ngezinto ezisezingeni eliphezulu ngesandla. Azigcini nje ngokuhlala isikhathi eside, kodwa futhi zibonisa kangcono.

Itshe lokusetha ngesandla, ngisho noma lingelona iqiniso, lingenza umehluko endleleni elicwebezela ngayo. Uma isethwe phansi kakhulu, akukho ukukhanya okwanele okuyishayayo ukuze ikhazimulise iso; iphezulu kakhulu, futhi isengozini yokuphuma.

U-Nathalie Colin, umqondisi wokudala we-Swarovski, uthe, "Uma usuwazi zonke izinyathelo kanye nobuciko ngemuva kwayo, uzobona ukuthi ifanelwe intengo." I-Swarovski yenza ubucwebe bemvunulo enekristalu yayo, ngezintengo eziqala ngaphansi kuka-$100 kodwa zikhuphuke kalula ngaphezu kwalokho. Kuwumsebenzi obanzi wamazwe ngamazwe, nefekthri yayo yokuqala yekristalu e-Wattens, e-Austria; ifektri eThailand lapho umsebenzi omningi wenziwa khona; kanye namahhovisi eParis, lapho kwakhiwa khona imiklamo.

Isiqephu ngasinye siqala ngomqondo oqalwe izibikezelo zethrendi zenkampani. Abakubona ngentwasahlobo nehlobo elizayo kwahamba “ngezindlela ezimbili, njengoba kuvame ukuba njalo,” kusho uColin. "Ngakolunye uhlangothi, kukhona ukuthambekela kwabanemibala egqamile kakhulu nabajabule. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, kukhona okuphambene: kucwebezela kakhulu, kuncane futhi kwesimanje ngokuthinta ukucwazimula. Futhi nanoma imuphi umbala ovela ensimbi, onegolide eliphuzi elibuyayo kanye negolide eliningi eliyirose.” Iqembu labaklami abangu-35 liqhamuka nemidwebo engu-1,500 isizini ngayinye, okuzokhethwa kuyo engu-400, kusho uColin.

Amasampula afika kwamathathu enziwa ucezu ngalunye; zihlolwa ukugqokwa, phakathi kwezinye izici. Khona-ke ucezu lufakwa ekukhiqizeni, "njengobucwebe obuhle, konke okwenziwa ngesandla, ngokusika amatshe, ukupholishwa kwensimbi, ukuhlelwa kwamatshe, konke okwenziwa ngesandla," kusho uColin.

Omunye umgexo ovela eqoqweni lentwasahlobo/ehlobo lika-2015, i-Celeste choker, wazalwa "ezinyangeni ezingu-20 ezedlule lapho siqala ukucabanga ngezengadi kanye nesidingo sokuphinde sixhumane nemvelo," esho.

Umgexo oqediwe uqukethe amakristalu angu-2,000 asikwe ngesandla, isandla ngasinye sisetshenziswa kudiski ye-Plexiglas ukuze kwakheke ingemuva elinamatshe angama-220 anombala we-amethiste, i-turquoise, i-opal eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka kanye ne-emerald efakwe ku-resin ukunikeza uhlobo lwezimbali ezingabonakali. Intengo: $799.

Ngokuphambene, u-Andrew Prince uwumsebenzi womuntu oyedwa, futhi ubucwebe bakhe bezingubo bungabiza izinkulungwane zamaRandi. Kungakhathaliseki ukuthi udala ubucwebe bomgunyathi be-"Downton Abbey" noma iqoqo lakhe elingaziwa, u-Prince uziklamela ngokwakhe yonke ingxenye futhi ayenze ngesandla esitolo sakhe e-East End yase-London.

Uyingcweti kwezomlando wobucwebe, futhi useke wafundisa eVictoria and Albert Museum. Uhlola izitolo zasendulo nezimboni ezindala ukuze athole amatshe amadala, asikwe ngezici ezimbalwa ukuze acwebezele kancane kodwa abebenyezela ngombala.

Uthi uyakuthokozela ukusebenza ngobucwebe bemvunulo ngoba kumnika inkululeko yokuthi ukuphatha amagugu angempela bekungeke. Ngokwesibonelo, wenza ibhande lejazi lakusihlwa elinesitimela "samadayimane" esilandela ngemuva, into engenakwenzeka ngokuphelele ngamatshe angempela.

Ubucwebe bezimpahla zokugqoka abugcini nje kukristalu noma ukusikwa kwengilazi ukuze balingise amagugu, futhi lokhu kuye kwakhula ngokuduma kobucwebe bomqondo, ngezinye izikhathi okwenziwa ngezinto ezingalindelekile noma ezigaywe kabusha.

“Umhlaba wobucwebe wavuleka ngempela ngeminyaka yawo-1970,” kusho uJosephine Chanter, inhloko yezokuxhumana eMnyuziyamu Wokuklama eLondon. “Abaklami bobucwebe baqale ukusebenzisa izinto ezingabalulekile. Ubucwebe abuzange bube mayelana nenani lezinto zokwakha, kodwa ukubaluleka komklamo." Ephuma ebhukwini lombukiso wasemnyuziyamu ka-2012, "Izinto Ezijabulisayo Ezingalindelekile: Ubuciko Nomklamo Wobucwebe Besimanje," uveza ukuthi cishe yonke into yayicatshangelwa. umdlalo fair: wazizwa, acrylic, izinzipho, ithambo, ukhuni, isikhumba nokunye.

Ubucwebe bemvunulo bunganikeza ogqokile inkululeko eyengeziwe, futhi.

U-Judieanne Colusso, umenzeli wezezindlu one-Colours of Tuscany e-Florence, e-Italy, uneqoqo lobucwebe bangempela (kanye nendodakazi eqeqeshelwe i-gemology e-London). Nokho “Ngiyabuthanda ubucwebe bemvunulo, ikakhulukazi amacici njengoba engaba makhulu kunempilo,” ubhale kanje ku-imeyili. "Azihlale zinemali eningi kodwa zinikeza i-lift enhle engutsheni nasebusweni bakho." Izintandokazi zakhe, uthe, amahophu esiliva "anezicucu eziningi ezincane ezinokuthula nemilayezo ye-karma enhle eqoshwe kuzo, namatshe amancane aluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka." Omunye umlandeli wenkohliso nguStefania Fabbro ozinze eMilan, osezokwethula iqoqo lobucwebe, iMediterranea, elihlanganisa indwangu namatshe ayigugu.

“Ngiyabuthanda ubucwebe bemvunulo ngoba bungivumela ukuthi ngigqoke izingcezu eziwubukhazikhazi obubukeka busezingeni eliphezulu ngaphandle kwentengo yobucwebe obuhle,” ebhala ku-imeyili. "Umndeni wami uhamba njalo, ngakho-ke ngiyathanda ukuthi lezi zingcezu zingakwazi ukubekezelela ukuguga nokupakishwa nokupakishwa." Noma unamathisele (uhlobo lwengilazi enomthofu engapholishwa ukuze icwebezele njengamadayimane) yayisetshenziswa kubucwebe kusukela ngeminyaka yawo-1720s, kwaba eminye iminyaka engama-200 ngaphambi kokuthi uCoco Chanel enze ama-fake abe yimfashini ngempela.

Ube yi-couturier yokuqala ukuthengisa ubucwebe bemvunulo, esitolo sakhe sezimpahla eRue Cambon eParis. Ngesikhathi sakhe sokuphumula, wathi, wayethanda ukuhlala ne-wax futhi enze izifanekiso zobucwebe, kamuva ezakhiwa ngensimbi enombala wegolide nobuhlalu bengilazi obuncibilikisiwe ukuze zibukeke njengamatshe ayigugu ayigugu noma izintambo zamaparele, isignesha yakhe. Lapho enqwabelanisa konke, amakhasimende akhe enza okufanayo.

Uma namuhla ubucwebe "bemfashini" bungenye igama elifanayo elithi "imvunulo," futhi uma umklami ngamunye eneqoqo lakhe, kwaqala, njengoba kwenza izitayela eziningi, nge-Chanel.

I-New York Times News Service