Zvishongo's Vakazvimiririra Vakadzi

Gore rino rinocherekedza Solange Azagury-Partridges yemakore makumi maviri neshanu semugadziri. Anozivikanwa nematombo anokosha eruvara uye anotamba, ane fungidziro, mugadziri wezvishongo weLondon akapemberera chiitiko ichi neKuunganidzwa Kwese, kwaanotsanangura sezvishoma pane zvese zvandakamboita.Kubva pakuruka madhaimondi nezvisikwa zvinoyevedza kusvika mhete dzinotaura nyaya mukati. matombo anokosha uye enamel ane mavara, Ms. Zvishongo zveAzagury-Partridges hazvisi zvekungoshongedza chete asi unyanzvi hunopfekwa hunomutsa pfungwa, uye kazhinji kunyemwerera.Aimbova Boucheron creative director inyanzvi pakati peboka riri kukura revakadzi vakazvimiririra vakagadzira zvishongo vakashandura chido chavo chezvishongo kuita mabhizinesi akabudirira, vachigadzira nhaka yenhaka. yamangwana.Kusiyana nevamwe vavo vechirume avo kusvika nguva pfupi yadarika vakatonga pamusika wakazvimirira, zvishongo zvechikadzi izvi zvine mukana wekunzwisisa kubva pane zvakaitika kwavari kuti vakadzi vanoda kupfekei.Lisa Hubbard, sachigaro weNorth and South America weSothebys international jewelry division, anoti kufambira mberi kunopindirana nevatengi vechikadzi vakawanda kupfuura kare. Nekuda kwekuti vanhukadzi vakawanda mazuva ano vave nemaitiro akazvimirira uye vari kurwira zvishongo zvavo, zvine musoro kuti vanhukadzi vabudirire kugadzira zvishongo zvinenge zvichida kupfekwa nemamwe madzimai, vakadaro. Azagury-Partridge, mushure mekupiswa munguva yakapfuura nekudyidzana kwekudyara kwaenda zvakashata, akatsunga kuvandudza bhizinesi rake pazvimiro zvake. Ndinoda kuita zviduku sezvandinogona, uye ndinoda kushanda nenzira yangu. Nekuzvimirira kunouya rusununguko, akadaro.Kunze kwechitoro chake chakashongedzwa zvakanaka cheMayfair, icho mugadziri uye shamwari Tom Dixon anorondedzera seumambo hwemashiripiti, ane zvimwe zvitoro zviviri zvino, chimwe muNew York uye chimwe muParis. Akavhara zvimwe zvitoro zvakawanda uye ari kutsvaga dzimwe nzira dzekuwedzera, pasina mari yezvitoro zvitsva. Muna Gumiguru, akaburitsa kubatana kwake kwechipiri neAmazons British webhusaiti. Iyo e-commerce hofori iri kupa yakasarudzika sterling sirivheri uye lacquered vhezheni yake siginecha Hotlips mhete dhizaini yemapaundi makumi matanhatu nepfumbamwe, kana angangoita $104. Iyo yepakutanga yegoridhe uye enamel version, yakatanga kugadzirwa muna 2005, uye inotengesa mari inodarika $2,300, ndeimwe yematombo anonyanya kutengesa.Mugadziri akati Amazon version, inowanikwa mumarudzi matanhatu, iri kutengesa zvakanaka uye inogona kukurumidza kuonekwa paAmazons American. site. Shanduko dzemwaka dzinodiwa nekutengesa zvishongo zvepamhepo zvinopokana nenguva yakareba inodiwa pakuunganidza kwake zvishongo zvakakosha, saka kutengesa mhete inzira yekuti ndiite zvekutengesa uye kuita kuti zvishongo zvangu zviwanikwe kune vateereri vakawanda, akadaro. Carolina Bucci mumwe mugadziri wezvishongo anoedza nzira dzekuwedzera bhizinesi rake. Makore gumi nemashanu mushure mekutanga kuunganidza kwake goridhe 18-karat, jeweler, akarererwa muItaly uye anogara muLondon, ari kuronga kuunza Caro, rudzi rwezvishongo zvesirivha, muhafu yekupedzisira ye2016. , mutengi akatarisana nefashoni, ichange iine kuunganidzwa kwemwaka uye inotarisirwa kutengeswa nemitengo iri pakati pemadhora zana nemakumi mashanu nemazana maviri nemazana mashanu. (Zvishongo zvake zvakanaka zvinobva pamadhora mazana mapfumbamwe nemakumi mashanu kusvika pamadhora zana).Caro, iyo inoshandisa Ms. Buccis zita remadunhurirwa, richava nemweya wakafanana newake wepakutanga asi richavakwa pane rakasiyana bhizinesi modhi. Handidi zvinopfuura zvitoro zvina kana zvishanu zveCarolina Bucci, sezvo ndinoda kuchengetedza pfungwa iyoyo yekusarurama, asi Caro imhando yandinofungidzira kuva nezvitoro zvakawanda zvakasiyana nevatengesi, akadaro. Kupfeka kucharamba kuri nyaya yakakosha. Akazvarwa mumhuri yeFlorentine jewellers, Ms. Bucci anoti haana kumbobvira abvumidzwa kupfeka zvishongo zvekupfeka achikura, uye akaona kuti zvishongo zvakanaka zvaaigona kupfeka zvaive zvechinyakare pane zvaanoda. Ini ndaida kugadzira zvishongo zvakanaka izvo zvaive zvechokwadi kunhaka yemhuri yangu, asi zvakare zvinonakidza uye zvinoenderana nehupenyu hwangu, akadaro. Kwaari, kugadzira zvishongo ibasa remunhu. Kusiyana nematombo anokosha aanoyeuka amai vake vakapfeka achiri mudiki, pfungwa yake ndeyekugadzira zvimedu zviri nyore asi zveumbozha zvinogona kupfekwa zuva rese, kungave kubata nebasa, vana kana manheru. Hupenyu hwedu hwakasiyana chaizvo mazuva ano, akadaro.Kuchinja kwemugadziri kwakauya paakavhura chitoro chake munzvimbo yeBelgravia muLondon muna 2007. Kusvika panguva iyoyo Id handina kumbobvira ndasangana nevatengi vangu chaizvo, akadaro. Bhizimisi rakanyatsokura mushure mekuvhura chitoro. Chitoro chakamubvumira kuti aratidze mhando yake yese, uye akakurudzirwa nevakadzi vakapinda uye vakava vatengi vakavimbika avo vava kubuda neni, akadaro. Irene Neuwirth anobvuma kuti kuvhura kwake. chitoro paMelrose Nzvimbo muLos Angeles gore rapfuura chave chakakosha mukusimudzira kwekambani yake. Bhizinesi redu rakawedzera kwese nekuda kwechitoro. Aive mumwe wevagadziri vezvishongo zveBarney New York kubva paakaunza muunganidzwa wake une mavara, wechikadzi muna 2003, Ms. Neuwirth anoti hukama hwake nevaridzi vezvitoro vanotengesa zvishongo zvake, uye nevatengi vechikadzi vanozvitora, ndizvo zvakamukurudzira kubudirira.Ive ndakavaka bhizinesi rangu nekuvaka hushamwari hunoshamisa, akadaro. Ndinonzwa kuti ndiyo nzira yakanangana nevakadzi yekuita bhizinesi, iyo, munyika yezvishongo, inovapa mukana. Neuwirths vatengi vanowanzo tenga chidimbu mushure mekuona mugadziri akachipfeka. Kuita sebhero rezvishongo zvako hachisi chinhu chinowanwa nyore nyore nemugadziri wechirume, uye Suzanne Syz anotenda kuti vagadziri vechikadzi vanewo mukana wekunzwisisa zvinonzwika zvakanaka.Tinoziva zvinokwana. Ndinopfeka madhizaini angu kuti ndione kana akasununguka. Weve tese taiva nezvishongo munguva yakapfuura izvo zvairema zvakanyanya, mugadziri weSwitzerland akadaro.Ms. Syzs ine mavara, imwe-ye-a-kind haute jewelry inowanzofemerwa nehunyanzvi uye inoroora hunyanzvi hwekuita ne whimsy. Mutengesi wake mudiki muGeneva anongogadzira zvidimbu makumi maviri neshanu pagore, uye muNew York mwedzi wapera, akazivisa wachi yake yekutanga. Yakanzi Her Ben, iyi diki-edition, yakavanzika wachi yakafuridzirwa neBig Ben muLondon, uye yakatora makore maviri. kupedzisa. Iyo wachi ine zviso zviviri, zvese zvakaonekwa mumadhaimani uye sarudzo yerose kana chena goridhe kana dema titanium. Nguva inomira yakamira kunze kwechifukidziro chekunze, nepo iri mukati iwachi chaiyo. Chinyorwa chakatarisana chinoyeuchidza mutakuri: Unogona kunonoka, asi nguva haizodaro.Ms. Syz anoti vatengi vake vakasarudzwa, kunyanya muEurope nekuUnited States, vazhinji vacho vanotora mifananidzo saiye, vanowana zvishongo zvechinyakare zvakanyanya uye vanokoshesa musanganiswa wake wezvishongo zvehaute uye rurimi-mu-matama maitiro. , uye zvishamiso zvechisikigo ndidzo kurudziro yake huru. Anoveza zvivezwa zvake zvidiki muwakisi, obva aita kuti zvizivikanwe mugoridhe, titanium nematombo anokosha kumashopu ake muGeneva, Paris neLyon, France. Anongogadzira zvidimbu gumi nezviviri kusvika ku20 pagore.Her Black Label Masterpiece Nha. II Hove brooch yakatora makore matatu kuti ipedze. Ihombe, inopenya emerald inomiririra dama rehove inonzi puffer, uye pamusoro pacho pakafukidzwa nemadhaimani anodarika zviuru zvishanu nesafire. (Zvimwe zvimedu zvinobva muunganidzwa zvinotengeswa nemamiriyoni gumi emadhora.) Mugadziri wekuTaiwan anoti bhizimisi rake iye zvino rada kusvika 65 muzana muAsia, 20 muzana kuMiddle East uye 15 muzana muUnited States neEurope. Akavhura imba yekutandarira yeHong Kong mwaka wechirimo chapfuura, uye ari kutamisa muzinda wake kubva kuTaipei mukuyedza kuzvisimbisa munzvimbo yezvemari yepasi rose ine vatengi vane tariro. emarudzi emhando yepamusoro kuvhara zvitoro muguta, anotenda kuti vanotora zvishongo zvakakomba vanopfuura nemuHong Kong vanogara vachitsvaga chimwe chinhu chakasiyana. Pachine kudiwa kukuru kubva kune vateresi chaivo kana vakaona kukosha kwekudyara, akadaro. Chao, wekutanga muTaiwanese jeweler kuita kuti basa rake rive chikamu chekuunganidzwa kwekusingaperi kweSmithsonian Institutions National Museum of Natural History, kukura bhizinesi rake kwakakosha asi hakufanirwe kuuya nemubhadharo wekugadzira chishongo chakakwana: Chigadzirwa ndicho chakakosha. Chikero hachina basa.Ndinombozvibvunza kuti: Iri ibhizimusi here? Unyanzvi uhwu? Ndezvangu here? Ms. Chao akadaro. Ndinofanira kuisa pfungwa pakugadzira zvishongo zvakanakisisa zvandinogona, pakushamisa vanhu uye kuvaita kuti vaone kuti zvishongo zvingava sei unyanzvi.THE DESIGNERSSOLANGE AZAGURY-PARTRIDGELondonSolange Azagury-Partridge akanga achishanda kune mutengesi wekare wezana remakore rechi20 muLondon apo, akaodzwa mwoyo nemhete yekubatana. sarudzo dziripo, akagadzira zvake. Mhete yakakonzerwa yakayemurwa neshamwari uye vaaizivana navo zvekuti akaunza brand yake muna 1990. Muna 2002 akasarudzwa naTom Ford kuti ave director director kuBoucheron muParis, chiitiko chaanotsanangura sekuenda kuOxbridge yekugadzira zvishongo. Anozivikanwa nezvishongo zvake musanganiswa weruvara, hunhu uye njere, ari muhurukuro neLondon museum kuti agadzirise kuratidzwa kwe2017 kuchasimudza chimiro chezvishongo semhando yakakomba yehunyanzvi.CAROLINA BUCCILondonMuna 1885, sekuru mukuru weCarolina Buccis akavhura homwe yekugadzira chitoro. inoona muFlorence. Bhizinesi remhuri rakashanduka kuita mugadziri wezvishongo zvegoridhe zvakanakisa, uye iko zvino mashopu ayo anoburitsa ese Ms. Buccis kuunganidzwa. Kusanganisa hunyanzvi hwechinyakare nemagadzirirwo emazuva ano senge siginicha yake yakarukwa-yegoridhe uye sirika shinda yehushamwari mabhurekete, mugadziri anoshandisa nguva yake muLondon, Italy neNew York, kwakaberekerwa amai vake uye kwaakatanga bhizinesi rake. Nevatengi vane mukurumbira vakaita saVictoria Beckham naGwyneth Paltrow, akagadzira vateveri vepasirese vezvishongo zveumbozha zvinosiyana asi zviri nyore kuisa nezvimwe zvimedu.CINDY CHAOHong KongCindy Chao akakurira kuTaiwan akakomberedzwa nehunyanzvi, mwanasikana wemuvezi uye muzukuru. yemumwe muvaki ane mukurumbira. Akatanga Cindy Chao The Art Jewel muna 2004 uye agara achiswedera kune zvishongo zvake sezvidhori zvidiki zve 3-D zvine minuscule inotsanangura uye pfungwa yekureruka uye kuenzanisa. Nehuzivi hushoma-hwakawanda hwekugadzira, anongogadzira imwe yemashavishavi ake anosaina gore rega rega uye vanokurumidza kuva vateresi zvinhu. Ballerina Butterfly brooch, yakagadzirwa naSarah Jessica Parker, yakatengeswa kuSothebys muna Gumiguru 2014 nemadhora 1.2 miriyoni, iine $300,000 yemari yacho ichibatsira New York City Ballet.IRENE NEUWIRTHLos AngelesIrene Neuwirths akashinga, zvirevo zveumbozha muraravungu yematombo anokosha. , turquoise uye tourmaline inofarira kapeti tsvuku, inopfekedzwa nevanofarira Reese Witherspoon, Naomi Watts naLena Dunham. Anozivikanwa nekugadzirwa kwemukati memba yake muchikamu cheVenice uye chitoro chake kuMelrose Place muLos Angeles, akasvikirwa kuti ave mucherechedzo wemararamiro asi akatsunga kutarisa zvishongo. Ini ndinoda kuve zita remumba, uye kuita kuti zvishongo zvangu zvipfuure kubva kuchizvarwa kuenda kune chimwe chizvarwa, akadaro Ms. Neuwirth, uyo akahwina 2014 CFDA Swarovski Mubairo weAccessory Design. Semukomana wake, director weLego Movie, Phil Lord, achienda kuLondon muna 2016 kuchirongwa chake chinotevera, Ms. Neuwirth akati arikutarisira kuwana mukana wekusimudzira chimiro chake chepasi rose.SUZANNE SYZGenevaSuzanne Syz akatanga kugadzira zvimedu zvake mushure mekuwana zvishongo zvechinyakare zvehaute zvechinyakare zvekuti zvaanoda. Anoda zvemazuva ano muunganidzi wemifananidzo, basa rake rakafurirwa neshamwari dzake Andy Warhol naJean Michel Basquiat, vaakasangana navo vachigara muNew York kuma1980. Iye zvino achigara kuGeneva, maitiro ake ekuda kukwana kune zvaakasika zvaireva kuti zvakatora makore mashanu kuti apedze kuunganidza kwake kwekutanga uye anoramba achigadzira nhamba shoma yezvimedu. Chisikwa chake chazvino uye wachi yekutanga, Her Ben, akatora makore maviri kuti apedzise uye, zvisingaite yewachi yezvishongo (vanowanzo shandiswa nequartz), ine mechanicha yekufamba kubva naVaucher, imwe yehaute horlogeries vagadziri vakanaka.