Akazi Odziyimira Pawokha a Zodzikongoletsera

Chaka chino ndi chikondwerero cha 25 cha Solange Azagury-Partridges monga wopanga. Wodziŵika chifukwa cha miyala yamtengo wapatali yamtengo wapatali komanso yosangalatsa, yochititsa chidwi, katswiri wa miyala yamtengo wapatali wa ku London anakondwerera mwambowu ndi mndandanda wa Chilichonse, chomwe amachifotokoza ngati china chilichonse chimene ndachitapo. miyala yamtengo wapatali ndi enamel yamitundu, Ms. Zodzikongoletsera za Azagury-Partridges sizokongoletsa chabe koma luso lovala lomwe limapangitsa munthu kuganiza, ndipo nthawi zambiri amamwetulira.Mtsogoleri wakale wa Boucheron Creative Director ndi msilikali wakale pakati pa gulu lomwe likukulirakulira la opanga akazi odziyimira pawokha omwe asandutsa chidwi chawo chodzikongoletsera kukhala mabizinesi opambana, kupanga zolowa. la mawa.Mosiyana ndi anzawo achimuna omwe mpaka posachedwapa adalamulira msika wodziyimira pawokha, odzikongoletsera achikaziwa ali ndi mwayi womvetsetsa zomwe amayi amafuna kuvala. kupita patsogolo kukugwirizana ndi ogula akazi ambiri zodzikongoletsera kuposa kale lonse. Popeza kuti akazi ochulukira masiku ano ali ndi njira zodziyimira pawokha ndipo akulimbirana zodzikongoletsera, ndizomveka kuti amayi angapange bwino zodzikongoletsera zomwe amayi ena amafuna kuvala, adatero. Azagury-Partridge, atawotchedwa m'mbuyomu ndi mabizinesi omwe adasokonekera, adatsimikiza mtima kupanga bizinesi yake pazolinga zake. Ndikufuna kukhala wamng'ono momwe ndingathere, ndipo ndikufuna kugwira ntchito m'njira yangayanga. Ndi ufulu kumabwera ufulu, iye anati.Kupatula pa sitolo yake yokongola kwambiri ya Mayfair, yomwe mlengi ndi bwenzi Tom Dixon akufotokoza ngati ufumu wamatsenga, ali ndi masitolo ena awiri okha, ku New York ndi ku Paris. Watseka masitolo ena angapo ndipo akufunafuna njira zina zowonjezera, popanda ndalama za masitolo atsopano.Mu October, adatulutsa mgwirizano wake wachiwiri ndi webusaiti ya Amazons British. Chimphona cha e-commerce chikupereka mtundu wasiliva wapamwamba kwambiri komanso wonyezimira wamapangidwe ake a mphete a Hotlips a mapaundi 69, kapena pafupifupi $104. Mtundu woyambirira wa golidi ndi enamel, womwe unapangidwa koyamba mu 2005, ndipo umagulitsidwa ndalama zoposa $2,300, ndi imodzi mwazogulitsa kwambiri zamtengo wapatali.Wopangayo adati mtundu wa Amazon, womwe umapezeka m'mitundu isanu ndi umodzi, ukugulitsidwa bwino ndipo posachedwa ungawonekere ku Amazons American. malo. Zosintha zanyengo zomwe zimafunidwa ndi malonda a zodzikongoletsera zapaintaneti zimasemphana ndi nthawi yayitali yofunikira pakutolera zodzikongoletsera zamtengo wapatali, kotero kugulitsa mphete ndi njira yanga yopangira zinthu zambiri ndikupanga zodzikongoletsera zanga kupezeka kwa omvera ambiri, adatero. Carolina Bucci ndi wopanga zodzikongoletsera wina yemwe amayesa njira zowonjezera bizinesi yake. Zaka khumi ndi zisanu atayamba kusonkhanitsa golide wa 18-karat, wodzikongoletsera, yemwe anakulira ku Italy ndipo ali ku London, akukonzekera kuwonetsa Caro, mtundu wa zodzikongoletsera zasiliva, kumapeto kwa 2016. , kasitomala wokonda mafashoni, idzakhala ndi zosonkhanitsa nyengo ndipo ikuyembekezeka kugulitsidwa pamitengo yapakati pa $150 ndi $2,500. (Zodzikongoletsera zake zabwino zimachokera ku $950 mpaka $100,000).Caro, yomwe imagwiritsa ntchito Ms. Dzina lakutchulidwa la Buccis, lidzakhala ndi mzimu wofanana ndi mtundu wake wapachiyambi koma lidzamangidwa pamtundu wina wamalonda. Sindikufuna masitolo oposa anayi kapena asanu a Carolina Bucci, chifukwa ndikufuna kukhalabe ndi maganizo odzipatula, koma Caro ndi mtundu womwe ndimalingalira kukhala ndi masitolo ambiri ndi ogulitsa, adatero. Wobadwira m'banja la Florentine jewelers, Ms. Bucci akuti sanaloledwe kuvala zodzikongoletsera atakula, ndipo adapeza kuti zodzikongoletsera zabwino zomwe amavala zinali zachikhalidwe kwambiri pazokonda zake. Ndinkafuna kupanga zodzikongoletsera zomwe zinali zoona ku cholowa cha banja langa, komanso zosangalatsa komanso zogwirizana ndi moyo wanga, adatero. Kwa iye, kupanga zodzikongoletsera ndi ntchito yaumwini. Mosiyana ndi miyala yamtengo wapatali yomwe amakumbukira amayi ake atavala ali mwana, lingaliro lake ndilopanga zidutswa zosavuta koma zapamwamba zomwe zimatha kuvala tsiku lonse, kaya ndi ntchito, ana kapena madzulo. Miyoyo yathu ndi yosiyana masiku ano, adatero. Kusintha kwa wopanga kudabwera pomwe adatsegula sitolo yake ku Belgravia ku London mu 2007. Mpaka nthawi imeneyo Id sindinakumanepo ndi makasitomala anga kwenikweni, adatero. Bizinesiyo idakula atatsegula sitoloyo. Sitoloyo idamulola kuwonetsa mitundu yake yonse, ndipo adalimbikitsidwa ndi azimayi omwe adabwera ndikukhala makasitomala okhulupirika omwe tsopano akusintha ndi ine, adatero. Irene Neuwirth amavomereza kuti akutsegula yekha. sitolo ku Melrose Place ku Los Angeles chaka chatha chakhala chofunikira kwambiri pakukula kwamakampani ake. Bizinesi yathu yakula paliponse chifukwa cha sitolo. Ndi chida chodziwika bwino, adatero.Pokhala m'modzi mwa opanga zodzikongoletsera za Barney New Yorks kuyambira pomwe adayambitsa zojambula zake zokongola, zachikazi mu 2003, Ms. Neuwirth akuti ndi maubwenzi ake ndi eni sitolo omwe amagulitsa miyala yamtengo wapatali yake, komanso ndi makasitomala achikazi omwe amawasonkhanitsa, zomwe zamupangitsa kuti apambane. Ndikumva kuti iyi ndi njira yodziwika bwino yomwe azimayi amachitira bizinesi, yomwe, m'dziko laumwini la zodzikongoletsera, imawapatsa mwayi.Ms. Makasitomala a Neuwirths nthawi zambiri amagula chidutswa atawona wopanga atavala. Kuchita ngati chikwangwani cha zodzikongoletsera zanu si chinthu chophweka chotheka ndi wopanga wamwamuna, ndipo Suzanne Syz amakhulupirira kuti opanga akazi alinso ndi mwayi womvetsetsa zomwe zimamveka bwino.Tikudziwa zoyenera. Ndimavala zovala zanga kuti ndiwone ngati zili bwino. Tonse tinali ndi zodzikongoletsera m'mbuyomu zomwe zinali zolemetsa kwambiri, wopanga waku Swiss adati. Zodzikongoletsera zamtundu wa Syzs, zamtundu wamtundu wina nthawi zambiri zimakongoletsedwa ndi zaluso ndipo zimakwatirana mwaluso mwachidwi. Wotchi yake yaying'ono ku Geneva imangotulutsa zidutswa 25 pachaka, ndipo ku New York mwezi watha, adalengeza wotchi yake yoyamba. Amatchedwa Her Ben, wotchi yocheperako iyi, yopangidwa ndi bejeweled idauziridwa ndi Big Ben ku London, ndipo idatenga zaka ziwiri. kuti amalize. Wotchiyo ili ndi nkhope ziwiri, zonse zimazindikiridwa mu diamondi ndikusankha rose kapena golide woyera kapena titaniyamu wakuda. Nthawi kwenikweni imayima pankhope yakunja, pomwe mkati mwake ndi wotchi yeniyeni. Zolemba zotsutsana nazo zimakumbutsa mwiniwakeyo kuti: Mutha kuchedwa, koma nthawi sichidzatero. Syz akuti makasitomala ake osankhidwa, makamaka ku Europe ndi United States, omwe ambiri mwa iwo ndi osonkhanitsa zojambulajambula ngati iyeyo, amapeza zodzikongoletsera zachikhalidwe kukhala zonyowa kwambiri ndipo amayamikira kusakaniza kwake kwa zodzikongoletsera zamtundu wamtundu ndi lilime m'masaya.Cindy Chao amayandikiranso zodzikongoletsera ngati luso. , ndipo zodabwitsa za m’chilengedwe ndizo chisonkhezero chake chachikulu. Amasema ziboliboli zake zazing'ono mu sera, kenako amazizindikira mu golide, titaniyamu ndi miyala yamtengo wapatali pamashopu ake ku Geneva, Paris ndi Lyon, France. Amangotulutsa zidutswa 12 mpaka 20 pachaka.Her Black Label Masterpiece No. II Nsomba brooch inatenga zaka zitatu kuti ithe. Ndi lalikulu, lonyezimira emarodi kuimira tsaya la nsomba puffer, ndipo pamwamba yokutidwa ndi oposa 5,000 diamondi ndi safiro. (Zidutswa zina za m’gululi zimagulitsidwa madola 10 miliyoni.) Wojambula wa ku Taiwan akuti bizinesi yake tsopano ili pafupifupi 65 peresenti ku Asia, 20 peresenti ku Middle East ndi 15 peresenti ku United States ndi ku Ulaya. Adatsegula chionetsero chapamwamba ku Hong Kong mchaka chathachi, ndipo akusamutsa likulu lake kumeneko kuchokera ku Taipei ndicholinga chofuna kukakhazikika ku malo azachuma padziko lonse lapansi omwe ali ndi makasitomala odalirika kwambiri. Mitundu yapamwamba yapadziko lonse kuti atseke masitolo mumzinda, akukhulupirira kuti otolera zodzikongoletsera omwe amadutsa ku Hong Kong nthawi zonse amafunafuna china chake chapadera. Padakali kufunikira kwakukulu kuchokera kwa osonkhanitsa enieni ngati awona mtengo wandalama, adatero.Kwa Ms. Chao, wopanga miyala yamtengo wapatali waku Taiwan woyamba kuti ntchito yake ikhale gawo lazosungirako zokhazikika za Smithsonian Institutions National Museum of Natural History, kukulitsa bizinesi yake ndikofunikira koma sikuyenera kuwononga kupanga miyala yamtengo wapatali: Zogulitsa ndizofunikira. Sikelo ilibe kanthu. Nthawi zina ndimadzifunsa kuti: Kodi iyi ndi bizinesi? Kodi izi ndi zaluso? Ndi kwa ine? Ms. Chao adatero. Ndiyenera kuyang'ana kwambiri pakupanga zodzikongoletsera zabwino kwambiri zomwe ndingathe, podabwitsa anthu ndikuwapangitsa kuwona momwe zodzikongoletsera zingakhalire zojambulajambula.THE DESIGNERSSOLANGE AZAGURY-PARTRIDGELondonSolange Azagury-Partridge anali kugwira ntchito pamalonda akale a m'zaka za zana la 20 ku London pamene, anakhumudwa ndi mphete ya chinkhoswe. zosankha zomwe zilipo, adazipanga yekha. Mpheteyi idasiyidwa ndi abwenzi ndi mabwenzi ake kotero kuti adayambitsa mtundu wake mu 1990. Mu 2002 adasankhidwa ndi Tom Ford kuti akhale director director ku Boucheron ku Paris, zomwe amazifotokoza ngati kupita ku Oxbridge ya zodzikongoletsera. Wodziwika chifukwa cha zodzikongoletsera zophatikiza zamitundu, zokopa komanso nzeru, akukambirana ndi nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale yaku London kuti akwaniritse chiwonetsero cha 2017 chomwe chidzakweza mbiri ya zodzikongoletsera ngati zojambulajambula zazikulu.CAROLINA BUCCILondonMu 1885, agogo aakazi a Carolina Buccis adatsegula thumba lokonza sitolo. zowonera ku Florence. Bizinesi yabanja idasintha kuti ikhale yopanga zodzikongoletsera zagolide, ndipo tsopano malo ake ogwirira ntchito amatulutsa zonse za Ms. Zopereka za Buccis. Kusakaniza njira zachikhalidwe ndi zojambula zamakono monga siginecha yake yoluka-golide ndi ulusi wa silika zibangili zaubwenzi, mlengiyo amathera nthawi yake ku London, Italy ndi New York, kumene amayi ake anabadwira ndi kumene anayambira bizinesi yake. Ndi makasitomala otchuka monga Victoria Beckham ndi Gwyneth Paltrow, wapanga otsatira apadziko lonse lapansi a miyala yamtengo wapatali yomwe ndi yapadera koma yosavuta kuyiyika ndi zidutswa zina.CINDY CHAOHong KongCindy Chao anakulira ku Taiwan atazunguliridwa ndi luso, mwana wamkazi wa wosema ndi mdzukulu. wa katswiri wa zomangamanga wotchuka. Adakhazikitsa Cindy Chao The Art Jewel mu 2004 ndipo nthawi zonse amayandikira zodzikongoletsera zake ngati ziboliboli zazing'ono za 3-D zokhala ndi tsatanetsatane pang'ono komanso kuwala komanso kusamala. Ndi filosofi yocheperako kwambiri yopanga, amangopanga imodzi mwa agulugufe ake osayina chaka chilichonse ndipo amakhala otolera zinthu mwachangu. Ballerina Butterfly brooch, yopangidwa ndi Sarah Jessica Parker, idagulitsidwa ku Sothebys mu Okutobala 2014 kwa $ 1.2 miliyoni, ndi $ 300,000 ya ndalama zomwe zidapindula ku New York City Ballet.IRENE NEUWIRTHLos AngelesIrene Neuwirths molimba mtima, zidutswa za mawu apamwamba mu utawaleza wamtengo wapatali wamtengo wapatali , turquoise ndi tourmaline ndizokonda zofiira zofiira, zomwe zimavalidwa ndi Reese Witherspoon, Naomi Watts ndi Lena Dunham. Amadziwika ndi mapangidwe amkati a nyumba yake ku Venice ndi sitolo yake ku Melrose Place ku Los Angeles, adafunsidwa kuti akhale chizindikiro cha moyo koma adatsimikiza mtima kuyang'ana zodzikongoletsera. Ndikufuna kukhala dzina lapanyumba, komanso kuti zodzikongoletsera zanga ziziperekedwa ku mibadwomibadwo, adatero Ms. Neuwirth, yemwe adapambana 2014 CFDA Swarovski Award for Accessory Design. Monga bwenzi lake, director of Lego Movie, Phil Lord, adanyamuka kupita ku London mu 2016 ku projekiti yake yotsatira, Ms. Neuwirth adati akuyembekezera mwayi wokulitsa mbiri yake yapadziko lonse lapansi.SUZANNE SYZGenevaSuzanne Syz adayamba kupanga yekha zidutswa zake atapeza zodzikongoletsera zachikale zachikale kwambiri zomwe amakonda. Wojambula wamakono wamakono, ntchito yake idakhudzidwa ndi abwenzi ake Andy Warhol ndi Jean Michel Basquiat, omwe adakumana nawo akukhala ku New York m'ma 1980. Tsopano wokhala ku Geneva, njira yake yofuna kuchita zinthu mwangwiro pa zomwe adapanga idatengera zaka zisanu kuti amalize kusonkhanitsa kwake koyamba ndipo akupitilizabe kupanga zidutswa zochepa. Wotchi yake yaposachedwa komanso wotchi yoyamba, Her Ben, idatenga zaka ziwiri kuti amalize ndipo, modabwitsa kuti wotchi yazodzikongoletsera (nthawi zambiri imakhala yoyendetsedwa ndi quartz), imakhala ndi makina opangidwa ndi Vaucher, m'modzi mwa opanga ma horlogeries abwino kwambiri.