Abasetyhini abaZimeleyo bezacholo

Lo nyaka uphawula isikhumbuzo seminyaka engama-25 uSolange Azagury-Partridges njengomyili. Eyaziwa ngokuba ngamatye anqabileyo anemibala kunye nokudlala, indlela yokucinga, i-London jeweler ibhiyozele umsitho ngengqokelela yeYonke into, ayichaza njengencinci yayo yonke into endakha ndayenza. amatye anqabileyo kunye ne-enameli enemibala, Nksk. Ubucwebe be-Azagury-Partridges abuyihombisi nje kodwa bubugcisa obunxitywayo obuxhokonxa iingcinga, kwaye rhoqo uncumo.Owayesakuba ngumlawuli we-Boucheron wobuchule ligqala phakathi kweqela elikhulayo labayili abazimeleyo ababhinqileyo abajike ukuthanda kwabo ubucwebe baba ngamashishini anempumelelo, bedala i-heirlooms. yangomso.Ngokungafaniyo noogxa babo abangamadoda abathe de kwaba mva nje balawula imarike ezimeleyo, aba bajikijeli babasetyhini banenzuzo yokuqonda ngokusuka kumava obuqu ukuba abafazi bafuna ukunxiba ntoni na.ULisa Hubbard, usihlalo woMntla noMzantsi Melika weSothebys International jewelry Division, uthi inkqubela ingqamana nabathengi bezacholo ababhinqileyo kunanini na ngaphambili. Ngenxa yokuba abasetyhini abaninzi namhlanje baneendlela ezizimeleyo kwaye bazilwela ngokwabo ubucwebe, iyavakala into yokuba abasetyhini bayile ngempumelelo amatye anqabileyo afuna ukunxitywa ngabanye abafazi, utshilo. U-Azagury-Partridge, emva kokutshiswa kwixesha elidlulileyo ngamahlakani otyalo-mali ahamba kakubi, uzimisele ukuphuhlisa ishishini lakhe ngokwemiqathango yakhe. Ndifuna ukuba mncinane kangangoko ndinako, kwaye ndifuna ukusebenza ngendlela yam. Ngokukhululeka kuza nenkululeko, utshilo. Ngaphandle kwevenkile yakhe ehonjiswe ngokugqithisileyo kaMayfair, echazwa ngumyili kunye nomhlobo uTom Dixon njengobukumkani bomlingo, unezinye nje iivenkile ezimbini ngoku, enye iseNew York enye eParis. Uvale ezinye iivenkile ezininzi kwaye ujonge ezinye iindlela zokwandisa, ngaphandle kweendleko zeevenkile ezintsha.Ngo-Okthobha, ukhuphe intsebenziswano yakhe yesibini kunye newebhusayithi yaseBritane yaseAmazons. Isigebenga se-e-commerce sibonelela ngesilivere eqaqambileyo kunye nenguqulelo elayitiweyo yoyilo lwesisayino sakhe seHotlips seringi yeeponti ezingama-69, okanye malunga ne-104 yeedola. Igolide yokuqala kunye ne-enamel version, eyaqala ukuyilwa ngo-2005, kwaye ithengisa ngaphezu kwe-2,300 yeedola, yenye yezona zinto zithengisa kakhulu. indawo. Utshintsho lwamaxesha onyaka olufunwa yintengiso yobucwebe be-intanethi aluvisisani nexesha elide elifunekayo kwingqokelela yakhe yobucwebe obuxabisekileyo, ngoko ke ukuthengiswa kweringi yindlela yam yokwenza ihosesaling kunye nokwenza ubucwebe bam bufumaneke kubaphulaphuli ababanzi, utshilo. UCarolina Bucci ngomnye umyili wezacholo ozama iindlela zokwandisa ishishini lakhe. Kwiminyaka elishumi elinesihlanu emva kokuba eqalise ukuqokelela igolide ye-18-karat, i-jeweler, eyakhuliswa e-Italy kwaye isekelwe eLondon, iceba ukwazisa i-Caro, i-brand jewelry yesilivere, kwisiqingatha sokugqibela se-2016. , umthengi ogxile kwifashoni, iya kuba neengqokelela zamaxesha onyaka kwaye kulindeleke ukuba ithengise ngamaxabiso aphakathi kwe-150 yeedola kunye ne-2,500 yeedola. (Izacholo zakhe ezintle zisusela kwi-950 yeedola ukuya kwi-100,000 yeedola) .Caro, esebenzisa uNksz. Igama lesidlaliso likaBuccis, liza kuba nomoya ofanayo nolo phawu lwakhe lokuqala kodwa liya kwakhiwa kwimodeli yoshishino eyahlukileyo. Andifuni ngaphezulu kweevenkile ezine okanye ezintlanu zaseCarolina Bucci, njengoko ndifuna ukugcina loo mvakalelo yokukhetheka, kodwa iCaro luphawu endicinga ukuba luneevenkile ezininzi ezahlukeneyo kunye nabathengisi, utshilo. Ukunxiba kuya kuhlala kungumba ophambili, nangona kunjalo. Uzalelwe kusapho lwabenzi bobucwebe be-Florentine, uNksz. UBucci uthi akazange avunyelwe ukuba anxibe izacholo zesinxibo ekhula, kwaye wafumanisa ukuba izacholo ezintle anokuthi azinxibe yayizezesintu kakhulu kwizinto azithandayo. Ndandifuna ukwenza ubucwebe obuhle obuyinyani kwilifa losapho lwam, kodwa ekwamnandi kwaye ehambelana nobomi bam, watsho.Kuye, ukuyila izacholo ngumzamo wobuqu. Ngokungafaniyo namatye anqabileyo akhumbula umama wakhe awayewanxibile xa wayengumntwana, ingcamango yakhe kukudala amaqhekeza alula kodwa anqabileyo anokunxitywa imini yonke, nokuba usebenza nomsebenzi, abantwana okanye ukuhlwa. Ubomi bethu buhluke kakhulu kule mihla, watsho.Inguquko yomyili yeza xa wayevula ivenkile yakhe kwindawo yaseBelgravia eLondon ngo-2007. Kude kube lelo xesha, andizange ndidibane nabathengi bam ngokwenene, utshilo. Ishishini ngokuqinisekileyo lakhula emva kokuvula ivenkile. Ivenkile yamvumela ukuba abonise uluhlu lwakhe lonke, kwaye wakhuthazwa ngabasetyhini abangena kwaye baba ngabathengi abathembekileyo abaguqukayo ngoku kunye nam, watsho.U-Irene Neuwirth uyavuma ukuba ukuvula eyakhe Ivenkile eMelrose Indawo eLos Angeles kulo nyaka uphelileyo ibaluleke kakhulu kuphuhliso lwenkampani yakhe. Ishishini lethu linyukile kuyo yonke indawo ngenxa yevenkile. Sisixhobo sophawu esimangalisayo, utshilo.Ebengomnye wabayili bezacholo abathengisa kakhulu kwiBarney New Yorks ukusukela oko wazisa ingqokelela yakhe enemibala, yobufazi ngo-2003, uNksz. U-Neuwirth uthi bubudlelwane bakhe nabanini beevenkile abathengisa amatye akhe anqabileyo, kunye nabathengi ababhinqileyo abaqokelelayo, oko kuye kwaphembelela impumelelo yakhe.U-Ive wakha ishishini lam ngokwakha ubuhlobo obumangalisayo, watsho. Ndivakalelwa kukuba yeyona ndlela ikhethekileyo abafazi abanayo yokwenza ishishini, nto leyo, kwihlabathi lobuqu lobucwebe, ibanika inzuzo. Abathengi be-Neuwirths bahlala bethenga iqhekeza emva kokubona umyili enxibe. Ukusebenza njengebhodi yezaziso zezacholo zakho asiyonto ifikelelwa lula ngumyili oyindoda, kwaye uSuzanne Syz ukholelwa ukuba abayili ababhinqileyo nabo banenzuzo yokuqonda oko kulungileyo. Siyazi ukuba kufanelekile. Ndinxiba iidesigns zam ukuze ndibone ukuba zikhululekile na. Sonke sasinezacholo kwixesha elidlulileyo ezazinzima kakhulu, umyili waseSwitzerland wathi. I-Syzs enemibala, ubucwebe be-haute obunye buhlala buphenjelelwa bubugcisa kwaye butshata ubugcisa obuhle kunye ne-whimsy. I-atelier yakhe encinci e-Geneva ivelisa kuphela amaqhekeza angama-25 ngonyaka, kwaye eNew York kwinyanga ephelileyo, ubhengeze iwotshi yakhe yokuqala. Ebizwa ngokuba nguBen, olu hlelo lulinganiselweyo, iwotshi eyimfihlakalo ye-bejeweled yaphefumlelwa nguBig Ben eLondon, kwaye yathatha iminyaka emibini. ukugqiba. Iwotshi inobuso obubini, bobabini babonwa ngedayimani kunye nokhetho lwerose okanye igolide emhlophe okanye ititanium emnyama. Ixesha limi ngokoqobo kubuso obungaphandle, ngelixa elingaphakathi liyiwotshi yokwenyani. Umbhalo ochaseneyo ukhumbuza lowo unxibileyo: Ungalibazisa, kodwa ixesha aliyi. USyz uthi abathengi bakhe abakhethiweyo, ikakhulu eYurophu nase-United States, uninzi lwabo abangabaqokeleli bemizobo njengaye, bafumana ubucwebe bendabuko kwaye bayayixabisa imixube yakhe yobucwebe be-haute kunye nesitayile solwimi-esidleleni. UCindy Chao ukwajonga ubucwebe njengobugcisa. , kwaye izinto ezimangalisayo zendalo ziyimpembelelo yakhe eyintloko. Uqingqa imifanekiso eqingqiweyo emincinci kwiwax, emva koko ayenze ukuba iqondwe ngegolide, i-titanium kunye namatye anqabileyo kwiindibano zakhe zokusebenzela eGeneva, eParis naseLyon, eFransi. Uvelisa kuphela iziqwenga ezili-12 ukuya kwezingama-20 ngonyaka.Umsebenzi wakhe woBugcisa weBlack Label onguNombolo. II Fish brooch yathatha iminyaka emithathu ukugqiba. Yi-emeraldi enkulu ekhazimlayo emele isidlele sentlanzi, kwaye umphezulu wogqunywe ngaphezu kwe-5,000 yedayimani kunye nesafire. (Ezinye izinto eziqokelelweyo zithengiswa ngeedola ezili-10 lezigidi.) Umyili waseTaiwan uthi ishishini lakhe ngoku limalunga nama-65 ekhulwini eAsia, ama-20 ekhulwini kuMbindi Mpuma ne-15 ekhulwini eUnited States naseYurophu. Uvule igumbi lomboniso elitofotofo laseHong Kong kule ntwasahlobo idlulileyo, kwaye uthumela ikomkhulu lakhe apho lisuka eTaipei ngeenzame zokuzimisa kwiziko lezemali lamazwe ngamazwe elinesiseko sabathengi esithembisayo. Ngaphandle kokuhla okuqhubekayo koqoqosho lwaseTshayina, olukhokelele abaninzi Iimpawu zodidi lwamazwe ngamazwe zokuvala iivenkile esixekweni, ukholelwa ukuba abaqokeleli bezacholo ezinzulu abadlula eHong Kong bahlala bekhangela into eyodwa. Kusekho imfuno enkulu evela kubaqokeleli bokwenyani ukuba babona ixabiso lotyalo-mali, utshilo.KuNkskz. U-Chao, i-jeweler yokuqala yaseTaiwan ukuba umsebenzi wakhe ube yinxalenye yengqokelela esisigxina ye-Smithsonian Institutions National Museum yeMbali yeNdalo, ukukhulisa ishishini lakhe kubalulekile kodwa akufanele kufike ngeendleko zokudala i-jewel egqibeleleyo: Imveliso ingundoqo. Isikali asikhathali. Ndikhe ndizibuze: Ngaba eli lishishini? Ngaba obu bugcisa? Ngaba yeyam? Nksk. Watsho uChao. Kufuneka ndigxininise ekwenzeni ubucwebe obugqwesileyo endikwaziyo, ekumangaliseni abantu kwaye ndibenze babone indlela ubucwebe obunokuba ngayo ubugcisa.THE DESIGNERSSOLANGE AZAGURY-PARTRIDGELondonUSolange Azagury-Partridge wayesebenza kumthengisi we-antique wekhulu lama-20 eLondon xa, ephoxekile ngumsesane wokuzibandakanya. ukhetho olukhoyo, uyile okwakhe. Umsesane owenziweyo wathandwa kakhulu ngabahlobo kunye nabantu obaqhelileyo kangangokuba wazisa igama lakhe ngo-1990. Ngo-2002 wakhethwa nguTom Ford ukuba abe ngumlawuli woyilo e-Boucheron eParis, amava awachaza njengokuya kwi-Oxbridge yoyilo lwezacholo. Eyaziwa ngokuba nobucwebe bakhe bokudibanisa umbala, inkanuko kunye nobulumko, ukwiingxoxo kunye nemyuziyam yaseLondon ukunyanga umboniso we-2017 oya kuphakamisa iprofayili yobucwebe njengendlela yobugcisa obunzulu.UCAROLINA BUCCILondonNgo-1885, uyisemkhulu kaCarolina Buccis wavula ivenkile yokulungisa ipokotho. iibukele eFlorence. Ishishini losapho lavela laba ngumenzi wezacholo zegolide ezicikizekileyo, kwaye ngoku iindibano zocweyo zalo zivelisa zonke zikaNksk. Buccis ingqokelela. Ukudibanisa ubuchule bemveli kunye noyilo lwangoku olunje ngotyikityo lwakhe olulukiweyo lwegolide kunye nezacholo zobuhlobo zesilika, umyili uchitha ixesha lakhe eLondon, eItali naseNew York, apho umama wakhe wazalelwa khona nalapho waqala khona ishishini lakhe. Ekunye nabathengi abadumileyo abafana noVictoria Beckham kunye noGwyneth Paltrow, uye waphuhlisa abalandeli bamazwe ngamazwe amatye anqabileyo ahlukileyo kodwa kulula ukuweleka kunye namanye amaqhekeza. yomakhi odumileyo. Waphehlelela uCindy Chao IJeweli yobuGcisa ngo-2004 kwaye ebesoloko esondela kwizacholo zakhe njengemifanekiso eqingqiweyo ye-3-D eneenkcukacha ezincinci kunye nemvakalelo yokukhanya kunye nokulingana. Ngefilosofi enganeno-ngaphezulu yemveliso, wenza kuphela enye yeebhabhathane zakhe zokutyikitya minyaka le kwaye ziye zakhawuleza zaba zizinto zabaqokeleli. I-Ballerina Butterfly brooch, eyilwe kunye noSarah Jessica Parker, yathengiswa eSothebys ngo-Okthobha ka-2014 nge-$ 1.2 yezigidi, kunye ne-$ 300,000 yemali efunyenweyo ezuzisa i-New York City Ballet.IRENE NEUWIRTHLos AngelesIrene Neuwirths enesibindi, iziqwenga zenkcazo enqabileyo kwi- rainbow of gems , i-turquoise kunye ne-tourmaline yintandokazi ebomvu ebomvu, egqitywe ngabantu abafana noReese Witherspoon, uNaomi Watts kunye noLena Dunham. Uyaziwa ngoyilo lwangaphakathi lwekhaya lakhe kwicandelo laseVenice kunye nevenkile yakhe eMelrose Indawo eLos Angeles, uye wacelwa ukuba abe yibrendi yokuphila kodwa uzimisele ukugxila kubucwebe. Ndifuna ukuba ligama lekhaya, kwaye ubucwebe bam budluliselwe kwizizukulwana ngezizukulwana, utshilo uNkskz. Neuwirth, ophumelele iMbasa ye-2014 ye-CFDA Swarovski yoYilo lwe-Accessory. Njengomfana wakhe othandana naye, umlawuli weLego Movie uPhil Lord, wehla waya eLondon ngo-2016 kwiprojekthi yakhe elandelayo, uNksz. U-Neuwirth uthe ujonge phambili kwithuba lokukhulisa inkangeleko yakhe yamazwe ngamazwe.USUZANNE SYZGenevaSuzanne Syz uqale ukwenza ezakhe iziqwenga emva kokufumana izacholo zesiNtu eziphelelwe lixesha kwizinto azithandayo. Umqokeleli wezobugcisa wanamhlanje, umsebenzi wakhe waphenjelelwa ngabahlobo bakhe uAndy Warhol kunye noJean Michel Basquiat, awadibana naye ngelixa ehlala eNew York ngeminyaka yoo-1980. Ngoku use-Geneva, indlela yakhe yokujonga imfezeko kwindalo yakhe yathetha ukuba kuthathe iminyaka emihlanu ukugqiba ingqokelela yakhe yokuqala kwaye uyaqhubeka nokuvelisa inani elilinganiselweyo lamaqhekeza. Indalo yakhe yamva nje kunye newotshi yakhe yokuqala, u-Her Ben, uthathe iminyaka emibini ukuyigqiba, kwaye, ngokungaqhelekanga kwiwotshi yobucwebecwebe (idla ngokuba ne-quartz-powered), inentshukumo yoomatshini evela nguVaucher, omnye wabenzi behorlogeries abagqwesileyo.