Abesifazane Abazimele Bezinto Zobucwebe

Lo nyaka ugubha iminyaka engu-25 uSolange Azagury-Partridges engumklami. Waziwa ngamagugu akhe anemibala egqamile nokudlala, indlela enengqondo, ubucwebe base-London bugubhe lo mcimbi ngeqoqo le-Yonke into, alichaza njengokungaphezulu kancane kwakho konke engake ngikwenza. amatshe ayigugu noqweqwe lwawo olunemibala, uNkz. Ubucwebe be-Azagury-Partridges akuwona nje umhlobiso kodwa ubuciko obugqokekayo obuvusa umcabango, futhi kuvame ukumamatheka.Owayengumqondisi wokudala we-Boucheron umakadebona phakathi kweqembu elikhulayo labaklami besifazane abazimele abaguqule uthando lwabo lobucwebe baba amabhizinisi aphumelelayo, bakha ifa. yakusasa.Ngokungafani nozakwabo besilisa abaphethe imakethe ezimele kuze kube muva nje, laba basiki bebucwebe besifazane banenzuzo yokuqonda ngokuhlangenwe nakho komuntu siqu ukuthi yini abesifazane abafuna ukuyigqoka.ULisa Hubbard, usihlalo weNorth and South America for Sothebys international jewelry Division, uthi inqubekelaphambili iqondana nabathengi bobucwebe besifazane abaningi kunangaphambili. Uma kubhekwa ukuthi bayanda abesifazane namuhla abanezindlela ezizimele futhi bazifunela ubucwebe, kunengqondo ukuthi abesifazane bangaphumelela ukuklama ubucwebe abanye besifazane abafuna ukugqokwa, kusho uNksz. U-Azagury-Partridge, ngemva kokushiswa ubudlelwano bokutshalwa kwezimali esikhathini esidlule, uzimisele ukuthuthukisa ibhizinisi lakhe ngokuvumelana nentando yakhe. Ngifuna ukuba mncane ngangokunokwenzeka, futhi ngifuna ukusebenza ngendlela yami. Njengoba inkululeko iza nenkululeko, esho. Ngaphandle kwesitolo sakhe esihlotshiswe ngenjabulo eMayfair, umklami nomngane uTom Dixon asichaza njengombuso wemilingo, unezinye izitolo ezimbili nje kuphela, esisodwa siseNew York neseParis. Uvale ezinye izitolo ezimbalwa futhi ufuna ezinye izindlela zokwandisa, ngaphandle kwezindleko zezitolo ezintsha.Ngo-Okthoba, ukhiphe ukusebenzisana kwakhe kwesibili newebhusayithi ye-Amazons British. Umdondoshiya we-e-commerce unikeza inguqulo yesiliva enhle kakhulu kanye ne-lacquered yomklamo waso wendandatho yesiginesha ye-Hotlips wamaphawundi angu-69, noma cishe u-$104. Inguqulo yokuqala yegolide noqweqwe lwawo, eyaklanywa okokuqala ngo-2005, futhi ethengiswa ngemali engaphezu kuka-$2,300, ingenye yezinto ezithengiswa kakhulu zobucwebe. Umklami uthe inguqulo ye-Amazon, etholakala ngemibala eyisithupha, ithengiswa kahle futhi ingase ivele maduze e-Amazons American. indawo. Izinguquko zesizini ezifunwa ukuthengiswa kobucwebe ku-inthanethi azihambisani nesikhathi eside sokuhola esidingekayo eqoqweni lakhe lobucwebe eliyigugu, ngakho ukuthengisa izindandatho kuyindlela yami yokwenza ubucwebe futhi ngenze ubucwebe bami butholakale kubabukeli ababanzi kakhulu, esho. UCarolina Bucci ngomunye umklami wobucwebe ozama izindlela zokwandisa ibhizinisi lakhe. Eminyakeni eyishumi nanhlanu ngemuva kokuqala iqoqo lakhe legolide legolide le-18-karat, umkhandi wamagugu, owakhulela e-Italy futhi ozinze eLondon, uhlela ukwethula i-Caro, uhlobo lobucwebe besiliva, engxenyeni yokugcina ka-2016. , ikhasimende eligxile emfashinini, lizoba namaqoqo esizini futhi kulindeleke ukuthi lidayiswe ngamanani aphakathi kuka-$150 no-$2,500. (Ubucwebe bakhe obuhle busukela ku-$950 kuya ku-$100,000).I-Caro, esebenzisa uNksz. Isiteketiso sikaBuccis, sizoba nomoya ofanayo nowegama lakhe lokuqala kodwa sizokwakhiwa phezu kohlobo oluhlukile lwebhizinisi. Angifuni izitolo ezingaphezu kwezine noma ezinhlanu ze-Carolina Bucci, njengoba ngifuna ukugcina lowo muzwa wokuzikhethela, kodwa i-Caro iwuphawu engicabanga ukuthi lunezitolo eziningi ezahlukene kanye nabathengisi, wathi. Uzalelwe emndenini wabacwebecwebe be-Florentine, uNksz. UBucci uthi akakaze avunyelwe ukuthi agqoke ubucwebe bemvunulo ekhula, futhi wathola ukuthi ubucwebe obuhle ayengabugqoka babungokwesintu kakhulu ukuthi angabuthanda. Bengifuna ukwenza ubucwebe obuhle obuyiqiniso kumagugu omndeni wami, kodwa obujabulisayo futhi obuhambisana nempilo yami, esho.Kuye, ukudizayina ubucwebe kuwumzamo womuntu siqu. Ngokungafani nobucwebe obuyinkimbinkimbi akhumbula umama wakhe egqoke lapho esemncane, umqondo wakhe uwukudala izingcezu ezilula kodwa eziwubukhazikhazi ezingagqokwa usuku lonke, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi zisebenza emsebenzini, izingane noma kusihlwa. Ukuphila kwethu kwehluke kakhulu kulezi zinsuku, esho.Ushintsho olukhulu kumklami lweza lapho evula esakhe isitolo endaweni yaseBelgravia eLondon ngo-2007. Kuze kube yileso sikhathi, angikaze ngihlangane namakhasimende ami ngempela, esho. Ibhizinisi lakhula ngempela ngemva kokuvula isitolo.Isitolo samvumela ukuba abonise uhla lwakhe lonke, futhi wagqugquzelwa abesifazane abangena baba amakhasimende athembekile manje athuthukayo nami, esho.U-Irene Neuwirth uyavuma ukuthi uvule esakhe Isitolo esiseMelrose Place eLos Angeles ngonyaka odlule sibe semqoka ekuthuthukisweni kwenkampani yakhe. Ibhizinisi lethu lenyuke yonke indawo ngenxa yesitolo. Ithuluzi layo lokukhiqiza elimangalisayo, uthe.Njengoba engomunye wabaklami bobucwebe abadayisa kakhulu bakwa-Barney New York kusukela ethule iqoqo lakhe elimibalabala, labesifazane ngo-2003, uNksz. UNeuwirth uthi ubudlelwano bakhe nabanikazi bezitolo abadayisa ubucwebe bakhe, kanye namakhasimende wesifazane abawaqoqayo, okwenze waphumelela.Ngakhe ibhizinisi lami ngokwakha ubungane obumangalisayo, esho. Nginomuzwa wokuthi leyo yindlela eqondile abesifazane abanayo yokwenza ibhizinisi, lokho, emhlabeni womuntu siqu wobucwebe, okubanikeza inzuzo.Ms. Amaklayenti e-Neuwirths avamise ukuthenga ucezu ngemva kokubona umklami elugqokile. Ukwenza njengebhodi lokukhangisa lobucwebe bakho akuyona into efinyelelwa kalula ngumklami wesilisa, futhi u-Suzanne Syz ukholelwa ukuthi abaklami besifazane nabo banenzuzo yokuqonda ukuthi yini ezizwa kahle.Siyazi ukuthi yini ehambisanayo. Ngigqoka amadizayini ami ukuze ngibone ukuthi akhululekile yini. Sonke sasinobucwebe esikhathini esidlule obusinda kakhulu, kusho umklami waseSwitzerland.UNksz. Ubucwebe be-Syzs obumibalabala, obubodwa be-haute buvame ukugqugquzelwa ubuciko futhi bushada ubuciko obuhle obunobuhlakani. Umthengisi wakhe omncane e-Geneva ukhiqiza izingcezu ezingaba ngu-25 kuphela ngonyaka, futhi eNew York ngenyanga edlule, umemezele iwashi lakhe lokuqala. Ibizwa ngokuthi u-Her Ben, lolu hlobo lwewashi eliyimfihlakalo elilinganiselwe, elihlotshiswe nge-bejeweled lagqugquzelwa nguBig Ben eLondon, futhi lathatha iminyaka emibili. ukuqedela. Iwashi linobuso obubili, kokubili okubonakala ngamadayimane kanye nokukhetha kwe-rose noma igolide elimhlophe noma i-titanium emnyama. Isikhathi sima ngokoqobo ebusweni bekhava yangaphandle, kanti esingaphakathi siyiwashi langempela. Umbhalo ophambene ukhumbuza ogqokile: Ungalibazisa, kodwa isikhathi ngeke.Ms. USyz uthi amakhasimende akhe akhethiwe, ikakhulukazi e-Europe nase-United States, iningi lawo elingabaqoqi bezobuciko njengaye, bathola ubucwebe bendabuko buqinile futhi bayakwazisa ukuxutshwa kwakhe kobucwebe be-haute kanye nesitayela solimi esihlathini. UCindy Chao uphinde abheke ubucwebe njengobuciko. , futhi izimangaliso zemvelo ziwugqozi lwakhe oluyinhloko. Uqopha izithombe zakhe ezincane nge-wax, abese ezenza ngegolide, i-titanium namatshe ayigugu ezindaweni zakhe zokusebenzela e-Geneva, eParis naseLyon, eFrance. Ukhiqiza izingcezu ezingu-12 kuya kwezingu-20 kuphela ngonyaka.I-Black Label Yakhe Yobuciko Yobuciko No. II I-fish brooch yathatha iminyaka emithathu ukuqeda. Kuyi-emerald enkulu, ekhazimulayo emelela isihlathi senhlanzi e-puffer, futhi ingaphezulu limbozwe ngamadayimane namasafire angaphezu kuka-5,000. (Ezinye izingcezu zeqoqo zithengiswa ngamaRandi ayizigidi ezingu-10.) Umklami waseTaiwan uthi ibhizinisi lakhe manje selicishe libe ngamaphesenti angu-65 e-Asia, amaphesenti angu-20 eMpumalanga Ephakathi namaphesenti angu-15 e-United States naseYurophu. Uvule indawo yombukiso kanokusho yaseHong Kong kule ntwasahlobo edlule, futhi udlulisela ikomkhulu lakhe lisuka eTaipei ngomzamo wokuzakhela esikhungweni sezezimali samazwe ngamazwe esinamakhasimende athembisayo. Naphezu kokuwohloka okuqhubekayo komnotho waseShayina, osekuholele abaningi. Imikhiqizo kanokusho yamazwe ngamazwe yokuvala izitolo edolobheni, ukholelwa ukuthi abaqoqi bobucwebe abakhulu abadlula eHong Kong bahlale befuna okuthile okuyingqayizivele. Kusenesidingo esikhulu kubaqoqi bangempela uma bebona inani lokutshalwa kwezimali, esho.KuNkz. U-Chao, umcwebi wobucwebe wokuqala waseTaiwan ukuba umsebenzi wakhe ube yingxenye yeqoqo elihlala njalo le-Smithsonian Institutions National Museum of Natural History, ukukhulisa ibhizinisi lakhe kubalulekile kodwa akumele kube nezindleko zokudala ubucwebe obuphelele: Umkhiqizo ubalulekile. Isikali asinandaba. Kwesinye isikhathi ngiyazibuza: Ingabe leli yibhizinisi? Ingabe lobu buciko? Ngabe ngizenzela mina? UNksz. Kusho uChao. Ngidinga ukugxila ekwenzeni ubucwebe obungcono kakhulu engingakwazi, ekumangaliseni abantu futhi ngibenze babone ukuthi ubucwebe bungaba kanjani ubuciko.THE DESIGNERSSOLANGE AZAGURY-PARTRIDGELondonUSolange Azagury-Partridge ubesebenza kumdayisi wasendulo wekhulu lama-20 eLondon lapho, edunyazwe iringi yokuthembisana. izinqumo ezikhona, waklama eyakhe. Indandatho eyavela yathakaselwa kakhulu abangani nabantu ayebajwayele kangangokuthi wethula uhlobo lwakhe ngo-1990. Ngo-2002 wakhethwa u-Tom Ford ukuba abe umqondisi wokusungula e-Boucheron eParis, isipiliyoni asichaza njengokuhambela i-Oxbridge yedizayini yobucwebe. Waziwa ngobucwebe bakhe benhlanganisela yombala, inkanuko kanye nobuhlakani, usezingxoxweni nomnyuziyamu waseLondon ukuze alungise umbukiso ka-2017 ozophakamisa iphrofayili yobucwebe njengendlela yobuciko ebucayi.U-CAROLINA BUCCILondonNgo-1885, ukhokho ka-Carolina Buccis wavula isikhwama sokulungisa isitolo. amawashi e-Florence. Ibhizinisi lomndeni liguquke laba ngumkhiqizi wobucwebe begolide elihle, futhi manje ama-workshops alo akhiqiza bonke uNksz. Amaqoqo eBuccis. Ukuxuba amasu endabuko nemiklamo yesimanje efana nesiginesha yakhe yobungane elukiwe-igolide nentambo kasilika, umklami uchitha isikhathi sakhe eLondon, e-Italy naseNew York, lapho kwazalelwa khona unina nalapho aqala khona ibhizinisi lakhe. Ngamakhasimende osaziwayo anjengoVictoria Beckham noGwyneth Paltrow, usesungule abalandeli bamazwe ngamazwe ngobucwebe obukhazikhazi obuhlukile kodwa obulula ukububeka ngezinye izingcezu.U-CINDY CHAOHong KongUCindy Chao ukhulele eTaiwan ezungezwe ubuciko, indodakazi yomqophi nomzukulu. womdwebi wezakhiwo odumile. Wethula i-Cindy Chao The Art Jewel ngo-2004 futhi ubelokhu esondela kubucwebe bakhe njengezithombe eziqoshiwe ze-3-D ezinemininingwane emincane nomuzwa wokukhanya nokulinganisela. Ngefilosofi encane yokukhiqiza, udala kuphela izimvemvane zakhe ezisiginesha njalo ngonyaka futhi seziphenduke izinto zabaqoqi ngokushesha. I-Ballerina Butterfly brooch, eklanywe noSarah Jessica Parker, yathengiswa eSothebys ngo-Okthoba 2014 ngamadola ayizigidi ezingu-1.2, kanye ne-$ 300,000 yenzuzo ezuzisa i-New York City Ballet.IRENE NEUWIRTHLos AngelesIrene Neuwirths, izingcezu zesitatimende esinesibindi, esiwubukhazikhazi bothingo lwamatshe ayigugu. , i-turquoise ne-tourmaline iyintandokazi kakhaphethi obomvu, egqokwa abafana noReese Witherspoon, uNaomi Watts noLena Dunham. Uyaziwa ngomklamo wangaphakathi womuzi wakhe osesigabeni saseVenice kanye nesitolo sakhe eMelrose Place eLos Angeles, useke wacelwa ukuba abe wuhlobo lwempilo kodwa uzimisele ngokugxila ebucwebeni. Ngifuna ukuba igama lasekhaya, nokuba ubucwebe bami budluliselwe ezizukulwaneni ngezizukulwane, kusho uNksz. Neuwirth, owine Umklomelo we-CFDA Swarovski ka-2014 we-Accessory Design. Njengesoka lakhe, umqondisi weLego Movie uPhil Lord, ehlela eLondon ngo-2016 ukuze enze iphrojekthi yakhe elandelayo, uNksz. U-Neuwirth uthe ubheke ngabomvu ithuba lokukhulisa iphrofayili yakhe yamazwe ngamazwe.U-SUZANNE SYZGenevaU-Suzanne Syz waqala ukuzakhela izingcezu zakhe ngemva kokuthola ubucwebe bendabuko be-haute buphelelwe yisikhathi kakhulu ngenxa yezinto azithandayo. Umqoqi wezobuciko wesimanje oshisekayo, umsebenzi wakhe wathonywa abangani bakhe u-Andy Warhol noJean Michel Basquiat, ahlangana nabo ngesikhathi behlala eNew York ngawo-1980. Manje ezinze e-Geneva, indlela yakhe yokufuna ukuphelela endalweni yakhe isho ukuthi kuthathe iminyaka emihlanu ukuqeda iqoqo lakhe lokuqala futhi uyaqhubeka nokukhiqiza inani elilinganiselwe kakhulu lezicucu. Ukudala kwakhe kwakamuva newashi lokuqala, u-Her Ben, kuthathe iminyaka emibili ukuqedwa futhi, ngokungajwayelekile iwashi lobucwebe (ngokuvamile lisebenza nge-quartz), linomnyakazo wemishini ovela kuVaucher, omunye wabakhiqizi abahamba phambili be-haute horlogeries.