Kyawawan Kayan Ado Kamar Yadda Za'a Sawa Art

NEW YORK Shekaru dubbai da suka wuce, ’yan kogo na alfa sun haɗa ƙullun ƙullun masu launi don burge ’yan matan kogon. da kuma fahimta, duk da haka wani muhimmin ra'ayi ya haɗu da su: A cikin tarihi, an bayyana kayan ado a matsayin kayan ado na sirri, wanda shine hanya mai ban sha'awa na faɗin wearable. Wannan na iya zama alama a bayyane, amma a cikin ruwan sama da rana a watan da ya gabata, baƙi zuwa Gagosian Gallery a kan. Madison Avenue ba su da cikakken tabbacin abin da za a yi na macizai da aka lulluɓe da furanni masu ban sha'awa waɗanda aka kiyaye su ta hanyar gilasai waɗanda ke kewaye da ɗakin kamar silo. Nunin, kowanne yana wanka da haske na LED, an tuna da vivariums cikin ƙauna wanda mahaɗan masanin kimiyyar kayan ado ke kula da shi. Shin ya kamata a sawa? Ta tambayi wata mata, tana duban wani munduwa macijin da aka naɗe a kan wani babban dutsen azurfa. Wannan yanki ɗaya ne daga cikin kayan ado guda 20 a baje kolin kayayyakin Gagosians Precious Precious, wanda ke nuna aikin mai zaman kansa daga mai yin kayan ado na Paris Victoire de Castellane. Baje kolin ya kammala gudun makwanni shida a gidan hoton a karshen watan Afrilu. Duk wanda ya saba da Ms. De Castellanes zurfin sadaukarwa ga sigar mace ya san cewa amsar wannan tambayar ita ce eh. Ina tsammanin kayan ado da gaske wani abu ne tare da son rai, in ji ta yayin wata hira ta Skype kwanan nan. Ina son ra'ayin cewa wani bangare ne na kanku, kamar ci gaban fatar ku. Da rana, Ms. de Castellane yana tsara kayan ado masu kyau don Dior, ɗayan manyan samfuran alatu na Turai. A cikin sa'o'in da aka kashe ta, tana dafa abinci masu ban mamaki, masu matuƙar mahimmanci ga mace. Abubuwa masu daraja, waɗanda ke nuna farashin guda daga $150,000 zuwa $600,000, Ms. de Castellanes na biyu nuni a Gagosian. Na farko, 2011 Baudelarian extravaganza Fleurs dExcs, ya ƙunshi kayan ado na fure 10, kowanne yana wakiltar mace a cikin rungumar wani magani na daban. Ta kwatanta hodar Iblis, alal misali, a matsayin furen lu'u-lu'u mai launin shuɗi mai launin shuɗi, wanda ke zaune a saman wani ƙwallon disco na ma'adini mai rutilated. Yayin da guntuwar a cikin Fleurs dExcs suna da ban sha'awa, masu girma, masu hankali, kayan ado a cikin Ms. de Castellanes 2014 jerin, dabba kayan lambu ma'adinai, a kallon farko, sun fi kamewa. (Abubuwa masu daraja sun ƙunshi aiki daga jerin abubuwan biyu, tare da mai da hankali kan na baya-bayan nan.) Maimakon yin amfani da dumbin duwatsu masu daraja da ma'adanai, ta keɓe palette dinta zuwa manyan duwatsu masu daraja: lu'u-lu'u, ruby, sapphire da emerald ban da ɗaya mai ban mamaki. 28-carat opal da aikace-aikacen sassaucin ra'ayi na lacquer a cikin launuka masu launuka iri-iri.Daya daga cikin abubuwan da suka fi daukar hankali na ma'adinai na dabba shine kulawar da Ms. de Castellane ya biya wa kowane kayan ado na musamman na azurfa. Wurin tsayawa yana ɗaukar ɗaya daga cikin nau'i uku: gudan dabbobin duka macizai suna murƙushe sifofin yashi mai ruɗi wanda aka yi wahayi zuwa gare su daga duwatsun wucin gadi na shingen biri a gidan zoo na Bois de Vincennes a birnin Paris, inda mai zane ya shafe lokaci yana yaro; an ɗora kayan ado na kayan lambu a kan ɗigon azurfa da aka goge a madubi; da faceted tubalan, sanya ta yin amfani da m prototyping fasahar, nuna ma'adinai guda. Tunanin shi ne ko da yaushe, Me ke faruwa da jewels a lokacin da ba ka sa su? Ms. de Castellane ya ce. A gare ni, abin ban mamaki ne don ganin jauhari da ba a sawa ba. Don haka sai na yi musu ɗan ƙaramin gida. Hanyar da ta dace da kayan ado da ke kula da shi a matsayin kayan ado na sirri da kuma sassakawar jama'a wani bangare ne na sha'awar Gagosian, in ji Louise Neri, darektan a gallery. Ms. de Castellane ita ce ta farko kuma ita ce kawai mai kayan ado mai kyau wanda Gagosian ya wakilta. Babu kuskuren aikinta wanda shine abin da muke nema koyaushe a cikin masu fasaha, komai matsakaicin matsakaicin da suke aiki a ciki, Ms. Neri yace. Tana aiki a cikin wannan yanayin da ba a cika samun kayan adon kyau ba, amma duk da haka tana neman karya wasu al'adu kuma yarenta a sarari yake. A cikin 'yan shekarun nan, kalmar fasahar sawa ta sami kuɗi, yawanci a cikin kwatanta jauhari mai halaye na sassaka ko ingantaccen gini. Amma a lokacin, ko kuma, kayan ado masu kyau sun cancanta kamar yadda fasaha ya kasance batun muhawara mai zurfi. Ji na gaskiya yawancin kayan ado ba fasaha ba ne, in ji Tim McClelland, wani mai kayan ado a Great Barrington, Mass., wanda ya horar da Shirin Jami'ar Boston a Artisanry a cikin Artisanry. karshen shekarun 1970. Duk wanda ke yin wani abu a zamanin yau yana so ya ji cewa su ƴan zane ne, in ji Mr. McClelland, wanda yanzu ya zama rabin duo a bayan alamar kayan ado McTeigue & McClelland, amma ba abubuwa da yawa ba da garantin moniker. Ƙarni na 20 ya cika da masu zane-zane, sau da yawa masu zane-zane, waɗanda suka sassaƙa ƙyalli masu ɗorewa a cikin sararin kayan ado. Alexander Calders da aka yi da hannu, kayan ado na kayan ado guda ɗaya sun kafa mataki don motsi kayan ado na bayan yakin duniya na biyu; An yi bikin Art Smith, wani shiri a wurin New Yorks West Village, don kyawun sa na zamani. Yawancin wasu Salvador Dal da Georges Braque, alal misali sun sauka cikin kayan ado don ɗan gajeren zama. Ko da Pablo Picasso ya shiga tsakani; a watan Maris, pendants guda biyu na azurfa da ɗan ƙaramin azurfa da ya ƙirƙira a farkon aikinsa ya sayar da su a Skinner Auctioneers a Boston ga mai karɓar kuɗi kusan $ 400,000. Masu jewelers waɗanda suka yi aiki da hanyarsu ta baya a cikin fasahar fasaha, duk da haka, sun yi ƙasa kaɗan. Duk da yake babu wanda zai kyamaci Ren Lalique ko Peter Carl Faberg wurarensu a cikin jerin masu fasaha na tarihi, yana ɗaukar kayan ado na musamman don samun amincewa da taron jama'a. Wannan yana iya nuna ra'ayi mai zurfi na mai zane a matsayin garret-mazauni, wanda ya yi ƙoƙari ya saya ko da kayan da ba su da tsada kamar zane ko yumbu. Koyaushe ana yin hukunci da shi, in ji mai yin kayan ado na Burtaniya Stephen Webster. Da gaske yana da wahala a nisa daga gare ta. Tun daga shekarun 1940, haɓakar motsin kayan ado na studio a Amurka ya taimaka wajen gyara waɗannan bambance-bambance a wurin. Ban sha'awa ga kasuwancin kasuwanci, masu kayan ado na fasaha, irin su ƙwararren masanin gine-ginen Margaret de Patta, sun yi amfani da kayan ado a matsayin hanyar da za ta bayyana ra'ayoyi masu rikitarwa game da tsari da sararin samaniya. Abubuwan da aka bari na wannan zamanin ya ci gaba da tasiri ga masu zane-zane na zamani kamar yadda aka haramta amfani da su. kayayyaki masu tsada sun fara dusashewa, in ji Ursula Ilse-Neuman, mai kula da kayan ado a gidan kayan tarihi na fasaha da zane, MAD, a New York.Idan ka sayi yanki na Tiffany ko Harry Winston, har yanzu yana kan saka hannun jari, Ms. Ilse-Neuman ya ce. A cikin kayan ado na fasaha, waɗannan nau'ikan ba kawai kayan ado ba ne amma suna isar da saƙo ko ma'ana, koda kuwa kawai game da sanye da tsatsattsauran ƙarfe ne. Tashin hankali tsakanin ƙimar kayan abu da tsattsauran ra'ayi ya fi bayyana a cikin nau'ikan lankwasawa na Daniel Brush, a Mawaƙin New York wanda ya shahara wajen kera kayan aluminium, ƙarfe da zinariya, da kuma rashin jin daɗin sa na kasuwanci da rashin kula da sawa. Za a iya sawa? dan jarida da ya ziyarci Mr. Brushs loft a watan da ya gabata ya tambaye shi yayin da yake riƙe da wani abu na aluminium mai kama da bangle kuma ya saita tare da lu'u-lu'u Mughal zuwa haske. Wannan dabara ce mai amfani, mai aiki, in ji shi. Kuna iya sanya farantin abincin dare a kan ku. Brushs sui generis suna ɗaukar batun, duk da haka, ana ganin ana yin yunƙurin ginawa a bayan kayan ado masu daraja waɗanda za a iya sawa da kuma godiya saboda cancantar fasaha. Wannan shingen mutane suna rushe shi yayin da muke magana, in ji masanin tarihin kayan ado kuma marubucin Marion Fasel, yana ambato. , a tsakanin wasu misalan, Ms. de Castellanes Gagosian show.A cikin shekarar da ta gabata, de Young Museum a San Francisco ya shirya The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Bayan, 19501990; Grand Palais a Paris maraba da cartier: Salo da Tarihi; da Gidan Tarihi na Gidan Tarihi na Art ya karbi bakuncin Jewels ta JAR haifaffen Amurka, Joel Arthur Rosenthal na Paris. Nunin JAR, wanda ya gudana daga Nuwamba. 20 zuwa 9 ga Maris, shine nunin farko na Mets wanda aka keɓe ga mai kayan ado na zamani. Ya samu tsattsauran ra'ayi amma ya jawo hankalin mutane sama da 257,000, wanda hakan ya nuna a sarari cewa baulolin tsadar gaske ne, babban taron jama'a ne. kuma yana aiki har zuwa Yuli 27. Baje kolin wanda ya kunshi fiye da 300 jauhari da kayan ado da suka wuce karni biyar na al'adun Indiya, baje kolin ya mayar da hankali ne kan tasirin gabas da yamma, in ji mai shirya shi, Alex Popov. An raba nunin Kremlin zuwa dakuna biyu. Zaure ɗaya ya ƙunshi salon Indiya ta Kudu da farkon Mughal, wanda ya ƙare da aikin marigayi Munnu Kasliwal, wanda ƙwarewar fasahar gargajiya ta Indiya ta taimaka wa danginsa kantin sayar da kayayyaki, Fadar Gem a Jaipur, wurin shakatawa na gaskiya. Zaure na biyu yana ba da girmamawa ga marigayi Mughal da kayan adon Nizam, da kuma al'adun gargajiyar Indo-Western kayayyaki da Cartier, Chaumet da sauran gidajen Faransa suka daidaita. Popov ya zana kwatance: Kana a cikin wani katon otel a Las Vegas kuma a kowane corridor, kana da ayyukan fasaha, zane-zane. Kuna tafiya tare, ba ku taɓa ganin su ba. Sai ka ga zane mai kyau sai ka tsaya. Me yasa kuke tsayawa? Domin yana motsa wani abu a cikin ku. Tare da kayan ado, ainihin abu ɗaya ne. Don haka, masu kayan ado suna cikin duniyar fasaha ko fasaha? Glenn Adamson, sabon darektan MAD da aka nada, ya ce bai kamata ba. Ƙarni na 21 da yake abin da yake, nau'o'i sune wuraren tunani, amma ba su da amfani sosai a matsayin kwantena na mutane, in ji shi. Amfani ko a'a, imprimatur na mai fasaha ba tare da ambaton samun dama ga masu sha'awar masu arziki ba har yanzu yana ɗaukar tasiri mai ƙarfi. don gidajen kayan ado, wanda zai iya bayyana dalilin da yasa mutane da yawa yanzu suna daukar masu fasaha don yin aiki akan ayyukan haɗin gwiwa. A cikin Maris, alal misali, Hemmerle, wani ƙarni na huɗu, mai yin kayan ado na iyali a Munich, ya buga littafin waƙa, Natures Jewels, wanda marubuciya Greta Bellamacina ta tsara kuma ya ba da lokacin bayyanar da tarin kayan ado na zahiri. Daga baya a wannan watan, dan kasar Switzerland Chopard ya hada karfi da karfe tare da mai zane Harumi Klossowsky de Rola, wanda ya kera kayan ado na zobe, mundaye da 'yan kunne wadanda suka fara halarta a karon farko a bajekolin alatu na Baselworld.Mr. Webster, mai yawan haɗin gwiwa tare da wasu daga cikin duniyar fasaha masu ƙarfin zuciya, kwanan nan ya bayyana cewa yana ƙirƙirar tarin kayan ado a farkon 2015 wanda zai zama fassararsa na aikin ɗan wasan Birtaniya Tracey Emin, aboki na kusa. wanda ya dade da raba kayan ado irin su Mr. Webster daga shahararrun mashahuran fasaha irin su Ms. Emin, Mr. Adamson ya yi watsi da ra'ayin cewa akwai masu tsaron ƙofa a duniyar fasaha da ke hana masu kayan ado haƙƙinsu. Ba wai yana da wahala a ɗauki kayan ado da muhimmanci ba kamar fasaha kamar yadda yake da wahalar yin fasaha mai kyau, in ji shi.