Fine Jewelry As Wearable Art

NEW YORK Ntau txhiab xyoo dhau los, alpha txiv neej cavemen tau sib sau ua ke ntawm cov hlaws muaj xim zoo nkauj rau cov poj niam hauv qhov tsua.Hnub no, lawv cov xeeb leej xeeb ntxwv zoo tshaj plaws tuaj yeem sim ua kom yuam kev nrog ntau lab daus las pob zeb diamond rings.Ntau yam tau hloov pauv hauv cov jewels yog crafted. thiab pom tau, tseem yog ib lub tswv yim tseem ceeb txuas rau lawv: Thoob plaws hauv keeb kwm, cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub tau raug txhais ua tus kheej adornment, uas yog ib txoj hauv kev zoo nkauj hais tias nws hnav tau.Qhov ntawd yuav zoo li pom tseeb, tab sis nyob rau yav tav su nag hmo, cov neeg tuaj xyuas Gagosian Gallery ntawm Madison Avenue tsis paub meej tias yuav ua li cas ntawm lub pov haum-encrusted nab thiab quivering paj tiv thaiv los ntawm iav vitrines nyob ib ncig ntawm chav tsev zoo li silos. Cov lus qhia, txhua tus da dej hauv lub teeb ci ntawm LED, hu ua rau lub siab ntawm vivariums lovingly tended los ntawm tus kws tshawb fawb cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub npau taws.Nws puas yuav tsum hnav? nug ib tug poj niam, peering ntawm ib tug nab kauj-toog npab coiled nyob ib ncig ntawm ib tug craggy silver pedestal. Cov khoom no yog ib qho ntawm 20 jewels nyob rau hauv Gagosians Precious Objects exhibition, qhia txog kev ywj pheej ntawm Paris-based jeweler Victoire de Castellane. Lub rooj nthuav qhia xaus rau lub lim tiam khiav ntawm lub gallery thaum lub Plaub Hlis Ntuj lig.Leej twg paub txog Ms. de Castellanes sib sib zog nqus rau cov poj niam daim ntawv paub tias cov lus teb rau lo lus nug no yog ib tug resounding yog. Kuv xav tias cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub yog ib yam dab tsi nrog sensuality, nws hais thaum lub sij hawm sib tham Skype tsis ntev los no. Kuv nyiam lub tswv yim tias nws yog ib feem ntawm koj tus kheej, zoo li nws qhov txuas ntxiv ntawm koj cov tawv nqaij.Txawm hnub, Ms. de Castellane tsim cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub zoo rau Dior, ib qho ntawm cov khoom kim heev nyob sab Europe. Hauv nws lub sijhawm so, nws ua rau npau taws heev, muaj txiaj ntsig zoo rau femininity. Precious Objects, uas nthuav tawm cov nqi ntawm $ 150,000 txog $ 600,000, yog Ms. de Castellanes thib ob qhia ntawm Gagosian. Nws thawj zaug, xyoo 2011 Baudelairian extravaganza Fleurs dExcs, tau nthuav tawm 10 floral jewels, txhua tus sawv cev rau ib tug poj niam nyob rau hauv ecstatic puag ntawm ib yam tshuaj sib txawv. Nws piav qhia txog yeeb yam, piv txwv li, raws li lub pob zeb diamond-sequined paj nrog xiav lacquer petals, perched atop ib lub pob disco ntawm silvery rutilated quartz.Thaum cov khoom hauv Fleurs dExcs yog exuberant, voluminous, psychedelic, cov jewels hauv Ms. de Castellanes 2014 series, animalvegetablemineral, yog, thaum xub thawj siab ib muag, ntau txwv. (Precious Objects muaj kev ua hauj lwm los ntawm ob qho tib si series, nrog rau qhov tseem ceeb ntawm qhov tsis ntev los no.) Es tsis txhob siv myriad gems thiab minerals, nws tau confined nws palette rau cov classic precious pob zeb: pob zeb diamond, ruby, sapphire thiab emerald nrog rau qhov tshwj xeeb ntawm ib tug spectacular. 28-carat opal thiab liberal daim ntaub ntawv ntawm lacquer nyob rau hauv multicolored hues.Ib qho ntawm feem striking yam ntawm animalvegetablemineral yog cov xim uas Ms. de Castellane tau them rau txhua lub jewels tshwj xeeb nyiaj pedestal. Cov chaw sawv cev yog ib qho ntawm peb hom: cov tsiaj daim tag nrho cov nab nyob ib ncig ntawm rugged xuab zeb-cam khwb cia cov duab tshwm sim los ntawm cov pob zeb dag ntawm tus liab enclosure ntawm Bois de Vincennes zoo hauv Paris, qhov twg tus kws kos duab tau siv sij hawm los ua menyuam yaus; cov zaub jewels yog propped rau ntawm daim iav-polished silver droplets; thiab faceted blocks, ua siv ceev prototyping technology, tso saib cov pob zeb hauv av pieces.Lub tswv yim yog ib txwm, Yuav ua li cas tshwm sim rau lub jewels thaum koj tsis hnav lawv? Ms. de Castellane hais. Rau kuv, nws coj txawv txawv heev pom ib lub jewels uas tsis hnav. Yog li kuv tau ua ib lub tsev me me rau lawv.Nws txoj hauv kev idiosyncratic rau cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub kho nws raws li ob qho tib si ntawm tus kheej thiab cov duab puab rau pej xeem yog ib feem ntawm kev ntxias rau Gagosian, Louise Neri, tus thawj coj ntawm lub tsev cia puav pheej hais. Ms. de Castellane yog thawj zaug thiab tsuas yog cov jeweler zoo uas Gagosian tau sawv cev.Tsis muaj qhov yuam kev nws txoj haujlwm uas yog ib yam uas peb ib txwm saib rau hauv cov neeg ua yeeb yam, txawm tias lawv ua haujlwm li cas hauv nruab nrab, Ms. Neri hais tias. Nws ua hauj lwm nyob rau hauv no rarefied ib puag ncig ntawm cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub zoo, thiab tseem nws tab tom nrhiav kom tawg nrog tej kab lig kev cai thiab nws cov lus yog tseeb.Yog hais tias tsuas yog cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub kev lag luam lexicon muaj xws li clarity. Nyob rau hauv xyoo tas los no, lo lus hnav khaub ncaws kos duab tau txais txiaj ntsig, feem ntau piav qhia txog lub pob zeb diamond nrog cov duab puab zoo lossis kev tsim kho kom zoo. Tab sis thaum twg, los yog seb, cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub zoo tsim nyog raws li kev kos duab tseem yog lub ntsiab lus ntawm kev sib cav sib ceg.Kuv qhov kev xav ncaj ncees feem ntau cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub tsis yog kos duab, hais tias Tim McClelland, jeweler hauv Great Barrington, Mass., uas tau kawm ntawm Boston Universitys Program hauv Artisanry hauv lub lig 1970s. Txhua tus neeg uas ua ib yam dab tsi niaj hnub no xav xav tias lawv yog ib tus kws kos duab, hais tias Mr. McClelland, uas tam sim no tsim ib nrab ntawm cov duo tom qab cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub hom McTeigue & McClelland, tab sis tsis muaj ntau yam lav rau moniker.Lub xyoo pua 20th yog rive nrog cov kws ua yeeb yam, feem ntau cov sculptors, uas carved niches ntev nyob rau hauv cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub qhov chaw. Alexander Calders handcrafted, ib-ntawm-ib-zoo ornaments teem rau theem tom qab Tsov Rog Ntiaj Teb Zaum II kos duab kos duab txav; Art Smith, qhov kev sib tw ntawm New Yorks West Village scene, tau ua kev zoo siab rau nws qhov zoo nkauj Modernist. Ntau ntawm lwm tus Salvador Dal thiab Georges Braque, piv txwv li alighted nyob rau hauv cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub rau ib tug luv luv nyob. Txawm Pablo Picasso dabbled hauv nruab nrab; Thaum Lub Peb Hlis, ob lub nyiaj pendants thiab ib lub hnab nyiaj uas nws tau tsim thaum ntxov hauv nws txoj haujlwm muag ntawm Skinner Auctioneers hauv Boston rau tus neeg sau rau ze li $ 400,000.Jewelers uas tau ua haujlwm rov qab mus rau hauv lub ntiaj teb kos duab, txawm li cas los xij, muaj tsawg dua. Txawm hais tias tsis muaj leej twg yuav tsis quav ntsej Ren Lalique lossis Peter Carl Faberg lawv qhov chaw nyob rau hauv cov npe ntawm cov neeg ua yeeb yam keeb kwm, nws yuav siv lub jeweler tshwj xeeb kom tau txais kev pom zoo los ntawm pawg neeg kos duab. Qhov no tuaj yeem cuam tshuam qhov kev xav ntawm tus kws kos duab zoo li garret-dweller, ib tus neeg uas tau tawm tsam kom tau txais cov ntaub ntawv pheej yig xws li canvas lossis av nplaum. Hmoov tsis zoo, raws li ib tug jeweler, koj pib nrog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm tus nqi, thiab keeb kwm, uas yog dab tsi cov khoom no muaj. ib txwm raug txiav txim los ntawm, hais tias British jeweler Stephen Webster. Nws nyuaj heev kom tau deb ntawm nws. Pib xyoo 1940, qhov nce ntawm studio hniav nyiaj hniav kub txav hauv Tebchaws Meskas tau pab kho cov kev sib txawv ntawm qhov chaw. Indifferent rau kev lag luam kev lag luam, kos duab jewelers, xws li cov neeg thuam constructivist Margaret de Patta, gravitated rau cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub raws li ib tug txhais tau tias los qhia cov tswv yim nyuaj txog cov qauv thiab qhov chaw.Qhov qub txeeg qub teg ntawm lub sij hawm ntawd tseem cuam tshuam rau niaj hnub kos duab jewelers txawm tias taboos nyob ib ncig ntawm kev siv. Cov ntaub ntawv kim heev tau pib ploj mus, hais tias Ursula Ilse-Neuman, tus saib xyuas cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub ntawm Tsev khaws puav pheej ntawm Kev Ua Yeeb Yam thiab Tsim, MAD, hauv New York.Yog tias koj yuav Tiffany lossis Harry Winston daim, nws tseem yog kev nqis peev, Ms. Ilse-Neuman hais. Hauv kev kos duab cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub, cov khoom no tsis yog tsuas yog kho kom zoo nkauj xwb tab sis lawv kuj qhia cov lus lossis lub ntsiab lus, txawm tias nws tsuas yog hnav cov hlau xeb xwb.Qhov nro ntawm cov khoom muaj nqis thiab cov tswv yim nruj yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws hauv kev ua haujlwm ntawm Daniel Brush, New York tus kws kos duab paub txog kev ua kom zoo nkauj zoo nkauj txhuas, hlau thiab cov khoom kub, nrog rau nws qhov kev tsis txaus ntseeg rau kev lag luam rov hais dua thiab nws tsis quav ntsej txog kev hnav khaub ncaws.Nws puas tuaj yeem hnav? tus neeg sau xov xwm uas tuaj xyuas Mr. Txhuam loft lub hli tas los nug nws thaum nws tuav ib qho khoom txhuas zoo li lub bangle thiab teeb nrog Mughal pob zeb diamond rau lub teeb. Nws hais tias nws yog utilitarian, functional tswvyim. Koj tuaj yeem muab lub tais noj hmo rau ntawm koj lub taub hau.Mr. Txhuam sui generis coj ntawm cov ntsiab lus txawm li cas los xij, lub zog zoo li tau tsim tom qab cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub zoo nkauj uas tuaj yeem hnav thiab txaus siab rau nws txoj kev ua yeeb yam zoo.Qhov kev cuam tshuam cov neeg tau rhuav tshem nws thaum peb hais lus, hais tias cov keeb kwm nyiaj txiag thiab tus sau Marion Fasel, hais. , ntawm lwm cov piv txwv, Ms. de Castellanes Gagosian show.Nyob rau xyoo tas los no, de Young Tsev khaws puav pheej hauv San Francisco tau teeb tsa The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Tshaj, 19501990; Grand Palais hauv Paris txais tos Cartier: Style thiab keeb kwm; thiab Metropolitan Tsev khaws puav pheej ntawm Art tuav Jewels los ntawm JAR cov neeg Asmeskas yug, Paris-based Joel Arthur Rosenthal.The JAR exhibition, uas tau khiav txij lub Kaum Ib Hlis. 20 txog Lub Peb Hlis 9, yog Mets thawj zaug ua yeeb yam tau mob siab rau cov khoom lag luam tam sim no. Nws tau txais kev tshuaj xyuas hnyav tab sis nyiam ntau dua 257,000 tus neeg, ua kom pom tseeb tias cov baubles kim heev yog, qhov tseeb, cov neeg coob coob nyiam.Tam sim no sim qhov kev xav yog Is Nrias teb: Jewels uas Enchanted Lub Ntiaj Teb, uas tau qhib ntawm Kremlin hauv Moscow rau lub Plaub Hlis 12. thiab khiav mus txog Lub Xya Hli 27. Featuring ntau tshaj 300 jewels thiab jeweled khoom spanning tsib centuries ntawm Indian cuab yeej cuab tam, lub exhibition tsom mus rau kev sib nrig sib influences ntawm East thiab West, hais tias nws organizer, Alex Popov.The Kremlin qhia tau muab faib ua ob chav. Ib lub tsev npog sab qab teb Indian thiab thaum ntxov Mughal style, ua tiav nrog kev ua haujlwm ntawm Munnu Kasliwal lig, uas nws cov txuj ci ntawm cov khoom siv tes ua Indian tau pab ua rau nws tsev neeg lub khw muag khoom, lub pov haum Palace hauv Jaipur, qhov chaw zoo rau cov neeg tuaj ncig tebchaws uasi. Lub tsev thib ob ua kev zoo siab rau Mughal thiab Nizam cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub lig, nrog rau cov kev cai nplua nuj ntawm Indo-Western designs ua tiav los ntawm Cartier, Chaumet thiab lwm lub tsev Fabkis txoj. Popov kos ib qho kev sib piv: Koj nyob hauv lub tsev so loj hauv Las Vegas thiab hauv txhua txoj kev hauv tsev, koj muaj cov duab kos duab, duab kos duab. Koj tsiv mus, koj yeej tsis pom lawv. Tom qab ntawd koj pom ib daim duab zoo nkauj thiab koj nres. Vim li cas koj nres? Vim nws txav ib yam hauv koj. Nrog cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub, nws zoo ib yam nkaus.Yog li, cov jewelers puas koom nrog lub ntiaj teb ntawm kev kos duab lossis khoom siv tes ua? Glenn Adamson, tus thawj coj tshiab ntawm MAD, hais tias nws yuav tsum tsis muaj teeb meem. Nws hais tias lub xyoo pua 21st yog dab tsi, pawg yog cov ntsiab lus ntawm kev siv, tab sis tsis muaj txiaj ntsig zoo li cov thawv ntawm tib neeg, nws hais tias, siv los yog tsis yog, qhov tsis zoo ntawm tus kws kos duab tsis hais txog kev nkag mus rau nws cov neeg nplua nuj qhuas tseem ua rau muaj txiaj ntsig zoo. rau cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub lub tsev, uas tej zaum yuav piav qhia vim li cas muaj coob tus tam sim no nrhiav neeg ua yeeb yam los ua haujlwm ntawm kev sib koom tes. Nyob rau hauv lub Peb Hlis, piv txwv li, Hemmerle, ib tiam plaub, tsev neeg-khiav jeweler nyob rau hauv Munich, luam tawm ib phau ntawv paj huam, Natural Jewels, curated los ntawm tus kws sau ntawv Greta Bellamacina thiab sij hawm nrog lub unveiling ntawm ib tug hyperrealistic xwm-inspired hniav nyiaj hniav kub sau. Tom qab lub hlis ntawd, Swiss jeweler Chopard tau koom nrog cov kws kos duab Harumi Klossowsky de Rola, uas tau tsim ib qho khoom plig zoo tshaj plaws ntawm cov nplhaib, bracelets thiab qhwv ntsej uas ua nws thawj zaug ntawm Baselworld khoom kim heev fair.Mr. Webster, ib tug nquag koom tes nrog ib co ntawm lub ntiaj teb no kos duab boldfaced lub npe, tsis ntev los no tau tshaj tawm hais tias nws tab tom tsim ib tug hniav nyiaj hniav kub sau nyob rau hauv thaum ntxov 2015, uas yuav yog nws txhais lus ntawm kev ua hauj lwm ntawm British artist Tracey Emin, ib tug nyob ze tus phooj ywg. uas tau sib cais ntev jewelers xws li Mr. Webster los ntawm kev ua yeeb yam nto moo xws li Ms. Emin, Uas. Adamson tsis lees paub lub tswv yim tias muaj cov neeg saib xyuas hauv lub ntiaj teb kos duab tsis kam lees cov jewelers lawv lub sijhawm. Nws tsis yog li ntawd nws nyuaj rau cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub yuav tsum tau ua tiag tiag li kos duab ntau npaum li nws nyuaj ua kom zoo nkauj, nws xaus lus.