Na Lai nani e like me ke kii hiki ke komo

NEW YORK He mau kaukani makahiki i hala aku nei, ua hui pū nā kāne cavemen alpha i nā kaula o nā peʻa waihoʻoluʻu e hoʻohauʻoli i nā wahine ana. a ʻike ʻia, akā naʻe he manaʻo koʻikoʻi e pili ana iā lākou: I loko o ka mōʻaukala, ua wehewehe ʻia nā mea nani e like me ke kāhiko pilikino, ʻo ia ke ʻano nani o ka ʻōlelo ʻana i kāna mea hiki ke hoʻohana. ʻAʻole maopopo loa ʻo Madison Avenue i ka mea e hana ai i nā nahesa i hoʻopaʻa ʻia i ka pōhaku a me nā pua haʻalulu i pale ʻia e nā vitrine aniani i hoʻonohonoho ʻia a puni ka lumi e like me nā silo. ʻO nā hōʻike, ua ʻauʻau kēlā me kēia i loko o kahi halo o ke kukui LED, i hoʻomanaʻo ʻia i nā vivariums i mālama ʻia me ke aloha e kahi mea ʻepekema pupule. i nīnau ai kekahi wahine, e nānā ana i ke kūpeʻe nahesa e ʻōwili ʻia ana ma kahi paepae kālā ʻeleʻele. ʻO ka ʻāpana kekahi o nā mea nani he 20 i ka hōʻikeʻike Gagosians Precious Objects, kahi hōʻike o ka hana kūʻokoʻa e ka mea kūʻai aku ma Paris ʻo Victoire de Castellane. Ua hoʻopau ka hōʻikeʻike i kahi holo ʻeono pule ma ka hale kiʻi i ka hopena o ʻApelila. ʻO ka mea kamaʻāina me Ms. ʻO de Castellanes ka hilinaʻi hohonu i ke ʻano wahine ʻike ʻo ka pane i kēlā nīnau he ʻae ʻae. Manaʻo wau he mea maoli ka mea nani me ka naʻau, i ʻōlelo ʻo ia i ka wā o kahi ninaninau Skype hou. Aloha au i ka manaʻo he ʻāpana ia iā ʻoe iho, e like me ka hoʻomau ʻana o kou ʻili. Ma ka lā, Ms. Hoʻolālā ʻo de Castellane i nā mea nani no Dior, kekahi o nā hōʻailona waiwai nui o ʻEulopa. I loko o kāna mau hola hoʻomaha, hoʻomoʻa ʻo ia i nā mea hoʻokalakupua, waiwai nui i ka wahine. ʻO Precious Objects, i hōʻike ʻia i nā ʻāpana i kūʻai ʻia mai $150,000 a i $600,000, ʻo Ms. de Castellanes hōʻike lua ma Gagosian. ʻO kāna mea mua, ʻo ka 2011 Baudelairian extravaganza Fleurs dExcs, i hōʻike ʻia he 10 mau mea pua nani, ʻo kēlā me kēia mea e hōʻike ana i kahi wahine i ke apo ʻoluʻolu o kahi lāʻau lapaʻau ʻē aʻe. Ua hōʻike ʻo ia i ka cocaine, no ka laʻana, e like me ka pua daimana-sequined me nā petals lacquer uliuli, e kau ana ma luna o kahi pōpō disco o ka quartz rutilated silvery. de Castellanes 2014 moʻo, animalvegetablemineral, i ka maka mua, oi kaohi. (Loaʻa nā mea waiwai i nā hana mai nā pūʻulu ʻelua, me ka manaʻo nui i nā mea hou loa.) Ma kahi o ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā pōhaku he nui a me nā minela, ua hoʻopaʻa ʻo ia i kāna palette i nā pōhaku makamae maʻamau: daimana, ruby, sapphire a me emerald me ka ʻokoʻa o kahi mea kupanaha. ʻO 28-carat opal a me nā noi liberal o ka lacquer i nā hue ʻokoʻa. Ua uku aku ʻo de Castellane i kēlā me kēia mea kūʻai i ke kumu kālā kūʻokoʻa. Hoʻokahi o nā ʻano ʻekolu o nā kū: ʻo nā ʻāpana holoholona nā nahesa a pau e wili a puni i nā kiʻi hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i ke one i hoʻoulu ʻia e nā pōhaku i hana ʻia o ka pā monkey ma ka zoo Bois de Vincennes ma Paris, kahi i hoʻohana ai ka mea pena i kona wā kamaliʻi; ua hoʻopaʻa ʻia nā mea kanu ma luna o nā kulu kālā i hoʻomaʻamaʻa ʻia; a me nā ʻāpana ʻaoʻao, i hana ʻia me ka ʻenehana prototyping wikiwiki, e hōʻike i nā ʻāpana mineral. Ua haʻi aku ʻo Ms. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo de Castellane. Noʻu, he mea kupanaha loa ka ʻike ʻana i kahi moi i ʻaʻahu ʻole ʻia. No laila ua hana au i hale liʻiliʻi no lākou. ʻO kāna ʻano hiʻohiʻona i nā mea nani e mālama ana iā ia ma ke ʻano he mea hoʻonani pilikino a me ke kiʻi kiʻi lehulehu kekahi ʻāpana o ka hoʻowalewale no Gagosian, wahi a Louise Neri, he alakaʻi ma ka hale kiʻi. Ua haʻi aku ʻo Ms. ʻO de Castellane ka mua a me ka mea nani wale nō i hōʻike ʻia e Gagosian. wahi a Neri. Ke hana nei ʻo ia i loko o kēia kaiapuni laʻa ʻole o nā mea nani, akā ke ʻimi nei ʻo ia e uhaki i kekahi mau kuʻuna a maopopo kāna ʻōlelo. I nā makahiki i hala iho nei, ua loaʻa ke kālā i ka huaʻōlelo wearable art, maʻamau i ka wehewehe ʻana i kahi moi me nā ʻano kiʻi kiʻi a i ʻole ke kūkulu ʻana. Akā, i ka wā, a i ʻole, ʻo nā mea nani maikaʻi ke kūpono i ke ʻano he kumu no ka hoʻopaʻapaʻa ʻana. hope o ka makahiki 1970. ʻO ka poʻe a pau e hana nei i kēia mau lā makemake e manaʻo he mea pena lākou, wahi a Mr. ʻO McClelland, ka mea nāna i hoʻokumu i ka hapalua o ka duo ma hope o ka brand jewelry McTeigue & ʻO McClelland, akā ʻaʻole nui nā mea e hōʻoia i ka moniker. Ua piha ka 20th century i nā mea pena kiʻi, pinepine i nā mea kālai kiʻi, nāna i kālai i nā niches mau i loko o ke keʻena nani. ʻO Alexander Calders i hana lima ʻia, hoʻokahi-o-a-ʻano kāhiko i hoʻonohonoho i ke kahua no ka neʻe ʻana o ke Kaua Honua II; Ua hoʻolauleʻa ʻia ʻo Art Smith, kahi mea hoʻokūkū ma New Yorks West Village, no kāna aesthetic Modernist. Nui nā poʻe ʻē aʻe ʻo Salvador Dal lāua ʻo Georges Braque, no ka laʻana i kau i nā mea nani no kahi noho pōkole. ʻOiai ʻo Pablo Picasso i hoʻopaʻa ʻia i ka waena; i Malaki, ʻelua mau pendants kālā a me kahi brooch kālā āna i hana ai i ka hoʻomaka ʻana o kāna ʻoihana i kūʻai ʻia ma Skinner Auctioneers ma Bosetona i kahi ʻohi no kahi kokoke i $ 400,000. ʻO nā Jewelers i hana i ko lākou ala i hope i loko o ka honua noʻeau, akā naʻe, ʻoi aku ka liʻiliʻi. ʻOiai ʻaʻohe mea e hoʻopiʻi iā Ren Lalique a i ʻole Peter Carl Faberg i ko lākou mau wahi ma ka papa inoa o nā mea pena moʻolelo, pono ia i kahi mea kūʻai kūikawā nui e kākoʻo ʻia e ka lehulehu. Hiki i kēia ke hōʻike i ka manaʻo i hoʻopaʻa ʻia o ka mea pena ma ke ʻano he hale noho hale, ʻo ka mea i hakakā e loaʻa i nā mea inexpensive e like me ka canvas a i ʻole ka pālolo. e hoʻokolokolo mau ʻia e, wahi a ka mea kūʻai waiwai Pelekane ʻo Stephen Webster. He mea paʻakikī loa ka haʻalele ʻana mai ia mea. E hoʻomaka ana i ka makahiki 1940, ua kōkua ka piʻi ʻana o ka hale hana hale kiʻi ma ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa e hoʻoponopono i kēlā mau ʻokoʻa ma kahi. ʻAʻole makemake i ka ʻoihana pāʻoihana, nā mea hana kiʻi, e like me ka constructivist i mahalo nui ʻia ʻo Margaret de Patta, ua makemake i nā mea nani i mea e hōʻike ai i nā manaʻo paʻakikī e pili ana i ka hale a me ka lewa. Ua hoʻomaka ka mae ʻana o nā mea waiwai, wahi a Ursula Ilse-Neuman, ka mea nāna i mālama i nā mea nani ma ka Hale Hōʻikeʻike ʻo Arts and Design, MAD, ma New York. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Ilse-Neuman. I loko o nā mea nani, ʻaʻole hoʻonani wale kēia mau ʻāpana akā hāʻawi lākou i kahi leka a i ʻole ke ʻano, ʻoiai ʻo ia wale nō e pili ana i ke komo ʻana i ka hao. ʻO ka mea pena kiʻi o New York i ʻike ʻia no ka hana ʻana i ka alumini, ke kila a me nā mea gula, a me kona ambivalence i ka hoʻopiʻi pāʻoihana a me kona hoʻowahāwahā ʻana i ka hiki ke hoʻohana. he mea hoike i kipa aku ia Mr. Ua nīnau aku ʻo Brushs loft iā ia i ka mahina i hala aku nei iā ia e paʻa ana i kahi mea alumini i hoʻohālikelike ʻia me he bangle a hoʻonohonoho ʻia me nā daimana Mughal i ka mālamalama. He manaʻo utilitarian, hana, wahi āna. Hiki iā ʻoe ke kau i ka pā ʻaina ma kou poʻo. Lawe ʻia nā Brushs sui generis i ke kumuhana akā naʻe, ke kūkulu ʻia nei ka manawa ma hope o nā mea nani e hiki ke ʻaʻahu ʻia a mahalo ʻia no kāna pono hana. , ma waena o nā hiʻohiʻona ʻē aʻe, ʻo Ms. de Castellanes Gagosian show.I ka makahiki i hala iho nei, ua hoʻokumu ka de Young Museum ma Kapalakiko i ka The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Ma waho aʻe, 19501990; ua hoʻokipa ka Grand Palais ma Paris iā Cartier: Style and History; a me ka Metropolitan Museum of Art i hoʻokipa i nā Jewels e JAR ka mea hānau ʻAmelika, ʻo Joel Arthur Rosenthal i hoʻokumu ʻia ma Paris. ʻO ka hōʻikeʻike JAR, i holo mai Nov. ʻO 20 a Malaki 9, ʻo ia ka Mets hōʻike mua i hoʻolaʻa ʻia i kahi mea kūʻai aku i kēia manawa. Ua loaʻa iā ia nā manaʻo koʻikoʻi koʻikoʻi akā ua huki ʻia ma mua o 257,000 poʻe, e hōʻike ana i nā baubles maikaʻi loa he mea punahele nui loa. a hiki i Iulai 27. Featuring oi ma mua o 300 jewels a me jeweled mea spanning elima keneturia o Indian hoʻoilina, ka exhibition kālele ana ma luna o ka like mana o East a me West, wahi a kona mea hoʻonohonoho, Alex Popov.The Kremlin hōʻike ua maheleia i elua keena. Hoʻokahi hale keʻena e uhi ana i nā ʻano ʻĀpana Hema a me Mughal mua, e hoʻopau ana me ka hana a Munnu Kasliwal i hala, nona ka mākaukau o ka hana kuʻuna India i kōkua i ka hana ʻana i kāna hale kūʻai kūʻai ʻohana, ka Hale Aliʻi ʻo Gem ma Jaipur, kahi wahi mākaʻikaʻi pono. Hāʻawi ka hale lua i ka mahalo i nā mea nani o Mughal a me Nizam, a me ka moʻomeheu waiwai o nā hoʻolālā Indo-Western i hoʻopiha ʻia e Cartier, Chaumet a me nā hale Farani ʻē aʻe. Ua hoʻohālikelike ʻo Popov: Aia ʻoe ma kahi hōkele nui ma Las Vegas a ma kēlā me kēia alahele, loaʻa iā ʻoe nā hana noʻeau, nā kiʻi pena. Ke neʻe nei ʻoe, ʻaʻole ʻoe e ʻike iā lākou. A laila ʻike ʻoe i kahi pena nani a kū ʻoe. No ke aha ʻoe e kū ai? No ka mea, hoʻoneʻe ia i kekahi mea i loko ou. Me nā mea nani, ʻo ia ka mea like. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Glenn Adamson, ka luna hoʻomalu hou o MAD, ʻaʻole pono ia. ʻO ka 21st century ka mea ia, ʻo nā ʻāpana he mau kikoʻī, akā ʻaʻole pono loa e like me nā ipu o nā kānaka, i ʻōlelo ai ʻo ia. no nā hale kāhiko, ʻo ia ka mea e wehewehe ai i ke kumu e ʻimi nei ka poʻe he nui i nā mea hana kiʻi e hana i nā papahana hui. I Malaki, no ka laʻana, ua paʻi ʻo Hemmerle, he hanauna ʻehā, mea kūʻai aku ʻohana ma Munich, i kahi puke o nā mele, Natures Jewels, i hoʻopaʻa ʻia e ka mea kākau ʻo Greta Bellamacina a ua hoʻopaʻa ʻia me ka wehe ʻana o kahi hōʻiliʻili mea hoʻonaninani hyperrealistic. Ma hope o kēlā mahina, ua hui pū ka Swiss jeweler Chopard me ka mea pena kiʻi ʻo Harumi Klossowsky de Rola, nāna i hoʻolālā i kahi mea nani o nā apo, nā kūpeʻe lima a me nā apo pepeiao i hoʻomaka mua ma ka Baselworld luxury fair. ʻO Webster, ka mea hana pinepine me kekahi o nā inoa wiwo ʻole o ka honua, ua hōʻike koke ʻo ia e hana ana ʻo ia i kahi hōʻiliʻili nani i ka hoʻomaka ʻana o 2015 ʻo ia kāna wehewehe ʻana i ka hana a ka mea pena Pelekane ʻo Tracey Emin, he hoa pili pili. ka mea i hoʻokaʻawale lōʻihi i nā jewelers e like me Mr. Webster mai nā mea kaulana kaulana e like me Ms. Emin, Mr. Ua hōʻole ʻo Adamson i ka manaʻo aia kekahi poʻe kiaʻi puka ma ka honua kiʻi e hōʻole ana i nā mea kūʻai aku. ʻAʻole ia he paʻakikī no ka hana ʻana i nā mea nani e like me ka paʻakikī o ka hana ʻana i nā kiʻi maikaʻi, ua hoʻopau ʻo ia.