Zodzikongoletsera Zabwino Monga Zojambula Zovala

NEW YORK Zaka masauzande ambiri zapitazo, amuna a m’mapanga a alpha ankalumikiza mikanda yamitundu yosiyanasiyana kuti asangalatse akazi a m’phanga. ndipo amaganiziridwa, komabe lingaliro lofunikira limawagwirizanitsa: M'mbiri yonse, zodzikongoletsera zakhala zikutanthauzidwa ngati kudzikongoletsa kwaumwini, komwe kuli njira yachilendo yonenera kuti kuvala. Madison Avenue sankadziwa kuti apanga chiyani pa njoka za miyala yamtengo wapatali ndi maluwa onjenjemera otetezedwa ndi magalasi opangidwa mozungulira chipindacho ngati ma silo. Zowonetserazo, zomwe zinali ndi kuwala kwa kuwala kwa LED, zimakumbutsa zamoyo zomwe zimasamalidwa mwachikondi ndi wasayansi wamisala wodzikongoletsera. Kodi ziyenera kuvala? anafunsa mayi wina, akuyang'anitsitsa chibangili cha njoka chozunguliridwa ndi mwala wasiliva. Chidutswacho chinali chimodzi mwa miyala yamtengo wapatali ya 20 pachiwonetsero cha Gagosians Precious Objects, kusonyeza ntchito yodziimira payekha ndi Victoire de Castellane wa Paris. Chiwonetserocho chinamaliza kuthamanga kwa masabata asanu ndi limodzi ku nyumbayi kumapeto kwa April.Aliyense wodziwa bwino Ms. de Castellanes kudzipereka kwambiri kwa mawonekedwe aakazi amadziwa kuti yankho la funsoli ndi inde. Ndikuganiza kuti zodzikongoletsera ndi chinthu chosangalatsa, adatero poyankhulana ndi Skype posachedwa. Ndimakonda lingaliro loti ndi gawo lanu, monga kupitiliza kwa khungu lanu.Pofika tsiku, Ms. de Castellane amapanga zodzikongoletsera zabwino za Dior, imodzi mwazinthu zapamwamba kwambiri ku Europe. M'maola ake opuma, amaphika zonyansa, zamtengo wapatali kwa akazi. Precious Objects, yomwe inali ndi zidutswa zamtengo wapatali kuchokera pa $150,000 mpaka $600,000, anali Ms. de Castellanes chiwonetsero chachiwiri ku Gagosian. Poyamba, 2011 Baudelairian extravaganza Fleurs dExcs, inali ndi miyala yamaluwa 10, iliyonse ikuyimira mkazi wokondwa kwambiri ndi mankhwala ena. Anawonetsa kokeni, mwachitsanzo, ngati duwa lopangidwa ndi diamondi lokhala ndi ma petals abuluu a lacquer, lokhazikika pamwamba pa mpira wa disco wa silvery rutilated quartz. de Castellanes 2014 mndandanda, animalvegetablemineral, poyang'ana koyamba, amaletsa kwambiri. (Precious Objects ili ndi zolemba zonse ziwiri, ndikugogomezera zaposachedwa kwambiri.) M'malo mogwiritsa ntchito miyala yamtengo wapatali yambirimbiri, iye waika phale lake pamiyala yamtengo wapatali: diamondi, ruby, safiro ndi emarodi, kupatula miyala yamtengo wapatali. 28-carat opal ndi kugwiritsa ntchito mwaufulu kwa lacquer mumitundu yosiyanasiyana. Chimodzi mwazinthu zochititsa chidwi kwambiri pa Animalvegetablemineral ndi chidwi chomwe Ms. de Castellane walipira miyala iliyonse yamtengo wapatali yasiliva. Maimidwewo amatenga imodzi mwa mitundu itatu: zidutswa za nyama zomwe njoka zonse zimapindika mozungulira mikwingwirima yokhotakhota yamchenga motsogozedwa ndi miyala yochita kupanga ya mpanda wa nyani ku zoo ya Bois de Vincennes ku Paris, komwe wojambulayo adakhala nthawi ali mwana; miyala yamtengo wapatali yamasamba imakwezedwa pamadontho asiliva opukutidwa; ndi midadada faceted, anapanga ntchito mofulumira prototyping luso, kusonyeza mchere zidutswa. Ms. de Castellane anatero. Kwa ine, ndizodabwitsa kwambiri kuwona mwala womwe sunavale. Chifukwa chake ndidawapangira nyumba yaying'ono. Njira yake yodzikongoletsera yodzikongoletsa ngati zodzikongoletsera komanso chosema chapagulu chinali chimodzi mwazokopa za a Gagosian, atero a Louise Neri, wotsogolera pagalasi. Ms. de Castellane ndiye woyamba komanso wodzikongoletsera yekhayo amene Gagosian wamuyimilira.Palibe kulakwitsa ntchito yake yomwe ndi chinthu chomwe timachiyang'ana nthawi zonse mwa ojambula, mosasamala kanthu kuti akugwira ntchito yotani, Ms. Neri anatero. Iye amagwira ntchito mu malo rarefied zodzikongoletsera zabwino, ndipo komabe iye akufuna kuswa miyambo ina ndi chinenero chake n'zomveka.Ngati kokha zodzikongoletsera mafakitale lexicon anali momveka chotero. M'zaka zaposachedwa, mawu akuti luso lovala zovala apeza ndalama, nthawi zambiri pofotokoza miyala yamtengo wapatali yokhala ndi luso losema kapena zomangamanga. Koma pamene, kapena ngati, zodzikongoletsera zabwino amayeneretsedwa kukhala luso akadali mutu wa mkangano mokhudzika.Kumverera kwanga moona mtima zodzikongoletsera kwambiri si luso, anati Tim McClelland, zodzikongoletsera mu Great Barrington, Mass., Amene anaphunzitsidwa pa Boston Universitys Program mu Artisanry mu kumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma 1970. Aliyense amene amapanga china chake masiku ano akufuna kumva kuti ndi wojambula, adatero Mr. McClelland, yemwe tsopano akupanga theka la awiriwa kumbuyo kwa zodzikongoletsera zamtundu wa McTeigue & McClelland, koma sizinthu zambiri zomwe zimatsimikizira kuti moniker. Zaka za zana la 20 zinali zodzaza ndi amisiri, nthawi zambiri ojambula zithunzi, omwe ankasema niches osatha muzodzikongoletsera. Alexander Calders opangidwa ndi manja, zokongoletsera zamtundu umodzi zimayika maziko a kayendetsedwe kazodzikongoletsera zapadziko lonse pambuyo pa nkhondo yachiwiri ya padziko lonse; Art Smith, wojambula pa New Yorks West Village, adakondweretsedwa chifukwa cha kukongola kwake kwa Modernist. Ena ambiri Salvador Dal ndi Georges Braque, mwachitsanzo adatsika muzodzikongoletsera kuti akakhale kwakanthawi kochepa. Ngakhale Pablo Picasso adachita nawo sing'anga; mu March, pendants ziwiri za siliva ndi brooch ya siliva yomwe adapanga kumayambiriro kwa ntchito yake yogulitsidwa ku Skinner Auctioneers ku Boston kwa wokhometsa ndalama pafupifupi $400,000. Zovala zamtengo wapatali zamtengo wapatali zomwe zabwerera mmbuyo ku dziko la zojambulajambula, komabe, ndizochepa kwambiri. Ngakhale kuti palibe amene angakhumudwitse Ren Lalique kapena Peter Carl Faberg malo awo pamndandanda wa akatswiri a mbiri yakale, zimatengera miyala yamtengo wapatali kwambiri kuti ivomerezedwe ndi khamu la zojambulajambula. Izi zitha kuwonetsa malingaliro okhazikika a wojambulayo ngati wokhala ku garret, munthu yemwe wakhala akuvutika kuti apeze zinthu zotsika mtengo monga chinsalu kapena dongo. Mwatsoka, monga miyala yamtengo wapatali, mumayamba ndi mtengo wamtengo wapatali uwu, ndipo mbiri yakale, ndizo zomwe zinthuzi zili nazo. amaweruzidwa nthawi zonse, adatero katswiri wa miyala yamtengo wapatali waku Britain Stephen Webster. Ndizovuta kwambiri kuchokako.Kuyambira m'zaka za m'ma 1940, kuwuka kwa kayendetsedwe ka zodzikongoletsera ku studio ku United States kunathandizira kukonza kusiyana kumeneku. Mosasamala zamalonda, akatswiri a miyala yamtengo wapatali, monga Margaret de Patta, yemwe anali katswiri wa zomangamanga, anatengera zodzikongoletsera monga njira yofotokozera malingaliro ovuta okhudza mapangidwe ndi malo. zida zodula zayamba kuzimiririka, atero Ursula Ilse-Neuman, wosamalira zodzikongoletsera ku Museum of Arts and Design, MAD, ku New York. Ilse-Neuman anatero. Muzodzikongoletsera zaluso, zidutswa izi sizongokongoletsa zokha, komanso zimapereka uthenga kapena tanthauzo, ngakhale zitangovala chitsulo chadzimbiri. Kusagwirizana pakati pa mtengo wamtengo wapatali ndi kukhwima kwamalingaliro kumawonetsedwa bwino mu ntchito yopindika ya Daniel Brush, a Wojambula wa ku New York yemwe amadziwika ndi kupanga aluminiyamu yolunjika bwino, zitsulo ndi golidi, komanso chifukwa chosagwirizana ndi kukopa kwamalonda komanso kunyalanyaza kwake kuvala.Kodi ikhoza kuvala? mtolankhani yemwe adayendera Mr. Maburashi okwera pamwamba mwezi watha adamufunsa ali ndi chinthu cha aluminiyamu chowoneka ngati bango ndikuyika ndi diamondi ya Mughal powunikira. Ndilo lingaliro lothandizira, logwira ntchito, adatero. Mutha kuika mbale ya chakudya pamutu panu. Ma Brush sui generis amatengapo mbali pankhaniyi, ngakhale kuti chiwopsezo chikuwoneka kuti chikukulirakulira kumbuyo kwa zodzikongoletsera zamtengo wapatali zomwe zimatha kuvala ndikuyamikiridwa chifukwa cha luso lake laluso. Chotchinga chimenecho anthu akuchiphwanya pamene tikulankhula, anatero wolemba mbiri ya zodzikongoletsera Marion Fasel, potchulapo. , mwa zitsanzo zina, Ms. Chaka chatha, Museum of Young Museum ku San Francisco adapanga Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita. & Kupitilira, 19501990; Grand Palais ku Paris adalandira Cartier: Style and History; ndi Metropolitan Museum of Art inali ndi miyala yamtengo wapatali yolembedwa ndi JAR wobadwa ku America, Joel Arthur Rosenthal. 20 mpaka Marichi 9, inali chiwonetsero choyamba cha Mets choperekedwa kwa akatswiri a miyala yamtengo wapatali. Idalandira ndemanga zotsutsa koma idakopa anthu opitilira 257,000, ndikuwonetsetsa kuti mimbulu yokwera mtengo kwambiri ndiyomwe anthu amakonda kwambiri.Pakali pano kuyesa malingaliro amenewo ndi India: Zovala Zamtengo Wapatali Zomwe Zinasangalatsa Padziko Lonse, zomwe zidatsegulidwa ku Kremlin ku Moscow pa Epulo 12. ndipo ikupitilira mpaka Julayi 27. Zokhala ndi miyala yamtengo wapatali yoposa 300 ndi zinthu zamtengo wapatali zomwe zakhala zaka mazana asanu za cholowa cha India, chiwonetserochi chimayang'ana kwambiri zomwe zimayenderana ndi East ndi West, adatero wokonza zake, Alex Popov. Chiwonetsero cha Kremlin chagawidwa m'maholo awiri. Holo imodzi imakhala ndi masitayelo oyambira aku India aku India ndi a Mughal, zomwe zidafika pachimake ndi ntchito ya malemu Munnu Kasliwal, yemwe luso lake laluso lachi India lidathandizira kupangitsa mabanja ake kukhala malo ogulitsira, Gem Palace ku Jaipur, malo abwino oyendera alendo. Holo yachiwiri imapereka ulemu kwa zodzikongoletsera za Mughal ndi Nizam, komanso miyambo yolemera ya mapangidwe a Indo-Western opangidwa ndi Cartier, Chaumet ndi nyumba zina zaku France. Popov anayerekezera: Muli mu hotelo yaikulu ku Las Vegas ndipo m’khonde lililonse muli ndi zojambulajambula, zojambula. Ukasuntha, sumawawona. Kenako mukuona chojambula chokongola ndipo mwaima. Mulekeranji? Chifukwa chimasuntha chinachake mwa inu. Ndi zodzikongoletsera, ndizofanana ndendende. Ndiye, kodi miyala yamtengo wapatali ndi ya dziko la zaluso kapena zaluso? Glenn Adamson, wotsogolera watsopano wa MAD, akuti siziyenera kukhala kanthu. Zaka za zana la 21 pokhala momwe zilili, magulu ndi malo ofotokozera, koma osathandiza kwambiri ngati zotengera za anthu, adatero. Zothandiza kapena ayi, kusalankhula kwa wojambula osanenapo mwayi wopeza anthu olemera omwe amamukonda akadali ndi chidwi champhamvu. za nyumba zodzikongoletsera, zomwe zingafotokoze chifukwa chake ambiri tsopano akulembera akatswiri ojambula kuti agwire ntchito limodzi. Mwachitsanzo, m'mwezi wa Marichi, Hemmerle, m'badwo wachinayi, wopanga miyala yamtengo wapatali wa banja ku Munich, adafalitsa buku la ndakatulo, Natures Jewels, lolembedwa ndi wolemba Greta Bellamacina ndipo linayikidwa ndi nthawi yovumbulutsa zodzikongoletsera zodzikongoletsera zokongoletsedwa ndi chilengedwe. Kumapeto kwa mwezi umenewo, Chopard wa ku Swiss miyala yamtengo wapatali adagwirizana ndi wojambula Harumi Klossowsky de Rola, yemwe adapanga mphete zapamwamba, zibangili ndi ndolo zomwe zinapanga kuwonekera kwake ku Baselworld luxury fair. Webster, wothandizana nawo pafupipafupi ndi mayina odziwika bwino padziko lonse lapansi, adawulula posachedwa kuti akupanga zodzikongoletsera koyambirira kwa 2015 komwe kudzakhala kutanthauzira kwake kwa ntchito ya wojambula waku Britain Tracey Emin, mnzake wapamtima. zomwe zalekanitsa kwanthawi yayitali zodzikongoletsera monga Mr. Webster kuchokera kwa anthu otchuka monga Ms. Emin, Mr. Adamson anakana lingaliro lakuti pali alonda a pazipata mu zaluso akukana miyala yamtengo wapatali. Sikuti ndizovuta kuti zodzikongoletsera zizitengedwa mozama ngati zaluso monga momwe zimakhalira zovuta kupanga zaluso zabwino, adamaliza.