Ua hiki mai ka makahiki gula o Christian Dior i ka ROM

Akā ua hōʻailona ʻia i kahi maka no nā wahine, ka mea e hāʻawi ana i kā lākou mau hana kaua i nā kāne. ʻO ia ke ʻano o ke kālepa ʻana i kā lākou mau lole lole hale hana no ka hoʻihoʻi ʻana i ka corsetry o ke kenekulia 19 a me kekahi mau lole paʻakikī e hoʻi i ka mālama hale. Ua koi nui ka New Look outfits i ka mea nona. Ua kaumaha lākou, kaohi i ka neʻe ʻana a me ka hanu a makemake i kahi kōkua a ʻelua paha e hoʻopaʻa ʻia ai.

Ke hōʻailona nei i ka 70th anniversary o ka hoʻokumu ʻana o ka Hale, kahi hōʻike, i kapa ʻia ʻo Christian Dior, wehe ʻia ma ROM ma Nov. 25 a hiki i Malaki 18. Hoʻopili ia i ka makahiki gula o ka mea hoʻolālā kiʻi, ke ʻumi makahiki e holo ana mai 1947 a hiki i 1957. Kākoʻo ʻia ka hōʻike e Holt Renfrew - ʻo ka hale kūʻai nani ka mea mua i lawe mai i ka hana a ka couturier Farani i Kanada.

ʻO ka ʻimi ʻana i ka hopena o kēlā mau mea kupanaha i hana ʻia e nā hale hoʻokipa French couture i ke kālepa transatlantic a me nā ola o nā wahine ma ʻaneʻi ma Toronto ʻo ia ka mea nui o ka mea hoʻoponopono ROM ʻo Dr. ʻO Alexandra Palmer ke kino o ka naʻauao.

ʻO Palmer, ʻo ia ka luna hoʻomalu, ʻo Nora E. Ua koho ʻo Vaughan fashion costume curatorship, i ʻoi aku ma mua o 100 mau mea, me 38 mau lole mai ka ROM mau a me ka hōʻiliʻili lole e hōʻike ana i nā hiʻohiʻona o ka lā, nā lole ahiahi a me nā ʻaʻahu pōleʻa no nā hanana nui. Aia pū kekahi mau mea ʻaiʻai a me nā hiʻohiʻona o nā mea hoʻonaninani i hoʻohana ʻia e ka Hale o Dior i kēlā manawa.

Ma ke kaʻina hana hoʻomākaukau hōʻikeʻike, ua hoʻohuli ka hui hale hōʻikeʻike i nā ʻano paʻakikī paʻakikī, kaupaona a ana ʻia a hana i nā hana kiʻi i nā kikoʻī o nā ʻāpana maoli, ʻo ia ke ʻano o ka hoʻomālamalama ʻana i ko lākou mau loulou i ke ʻano mōʻaukala. ʻO ka nui o kēia mau lole i hāʻawi ʻia e Toronto a me Montréal socialites, nāna i ʻaʻahu i kēia mau ʻāpana ma Kanada.

Ua ʻike pū lākou i ka paʻakikī o kēia mau ʻāpana e ʻaʻahu ai. Ua hoʻohana ʻia kēia mau ʻaʻahu, "he nui o nā mea waiwai," wahi a Palmer. No ka hana ʻana i ke kapa no ka 1948 "Isabelle" ʻaʻahu poʻokela i mea koʻikoʻi o ka hōʻike, ua hoʻohana ʻo Dior i ʻelua pōʻai piha o nā mea, he 13 mau mika o ka lole, a i ʻole ke kau ʻana iā ia ma ke ʻano, lawa e uhi i nā sofas ʻelua.

ʻO kēia hauʻoli hauʻoli i ka puʻuwai o ka New Look, wahi āna. ʻO nā moʻolelo o ka hōʻike, i hōʻike ʻia ma ka ipadsinuser-friendly ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana i ke kula kahiko o nā mea a lākou e wehewehe ai, e haʻi i kahi ʻōlelo mai Dior iā ia iho i ka makahiki 1956: "Ua pau ke kaua ... He aha ke kaumaha o kaʻu mau mea momona, koʻu mau velvets kaumaha a me nā brocades? I ka wā i māmā ai nā puʻuwai, ʻaʻole hiki i nā lole wale ke kaumaha i ke kino." Ua ana ʻia ka hem ma kahi o 14 mika i ke anapuni: ʻo ia ka nui o nā lima (a i ʻole petites mains ma ka ʻōlelo o ka couture atelier) a me ka nui o ka humuhumu. Ua hana ka hale ʻaina me nā mea humuhumu haku. (Ka hana mai ekolu hale humuhumu a Dior i hoohana ai i kela umi makahiki mua - elua o ia mau mea i hala loa - ua hoikeia ma ka hoikeike.) A me na kamaa maa (kekahi i aie mai ka Bata Shoe Museum), na mea komo, na mea nani a me na papale. E hōʻike ana ka hōʻikeʻike i ka hana kupaianaha a aneane nalowale o ka poʻe akamai i "hana i nā lipine kupaianaha, nā peʻa, nā sequins a me nā mea hoʻopili i hoʻokomo ʻia e Dior i loko o kona mau lole me ke kōkua ʻana o kāna mau mea hana manaʻo noʻonoʻo, tailors a me nā humuhumu," wahi a Palmer.

Ua loaʻa i ka hale ʻaina Dior kona keʻena ponoʻī a i ʻole ka poʻe hana mau o nā mannequins (a.k.a models), a ua kūpono kēlā me kēia lole a hoʻohana ʻia e kahi mannequin kikoʻī. ʻO ka mea nui, hele ka hapa nui o nā mannequins ma ka inoa hoʻokahi wale nō, no laila ʻo lākou ka prototype no nā supermodels hou. ʻO kēlā me kēia lole i loko o ka hōʻikeʻike ua hoʻihoʻi ʻia i ka mannequin nāna i ʻaʻahu iā ia i ka hōʻike mua.

"Ua hōʻike ʻo Dior i kahi hiʻohiʻona piha, ka pūʻolo holoʻokoʻa," wahi a Palmer. Akā, ʻo ka moʻolelo o ke ʻano o nā ʻaʻahu i lilo i mea nona nā mea nona. Ma mua o ka lilo ʻana o ka mea hoʻolālā "vintage" i mākeke wela loa, hāʻawi ka poʻe socialites i kā lākou mea nani i nā hale moʻomeheu no ka mālama pono ʻana a me ke aʻo ʻana. "Ke pani nei ka pukaaniani ma luna," wahi āna.

ʻO ka postwar Christian Dior kahi lole ikaika o nā waihona ROM, a ʻo nā hiʻohiʻona i loko o ka hōʻike e pili ana i ka hāʻule ʻana o ka makahiki 1957 i kapa ʻia ʻo "Venezuela," he makana ia mai Toronto philanthropist Carol Rapp. A ua hāʻawi ka Estate o Molly Roebuck i ka lole Dior o Elaine Roebuck, he 12 mau makahiki, he mea hoʻoheheʻe kilika me ka lole pulupulu, i hoʻohana ʻia i kāna Bat Mitzvah ma Toronto i ka puna o 1957. Hōʻike ka ʻaʻahu o ke kaikamahine ʻōpio i ke ʻano Dior i unuhi ʻia i nā kikoʻī kūpono o ka makahiki.

ʻO ka nīnau no Palmer: "No ke aha i kūleʻa ai ʻo Dior?" ʻAe, loaʻa iā ia nā mea hoʻopukapuka ʻeke hohonu i ka wā o ka hoʻokele waiwai. "Akā, pono ka poʻe e kūʻai i loko," i ʻōlelo ai ʻo ia, a ʻo ka hoʻi ʻana i nā ʻano paʻakikī hou aʻe ma hope o ke kūʻokoʻa o ke kāʻei kaua i ka wā kaua. Akā, ʻo ke ʻano e pili ana i ka hopena. "Pono ka '50s no ka '60 e hiki mai," wahi āna.

He "manaʻo ikaika loa ʻo Dior," i ʻōlelo ai ʻo ia, e pili ana i ka makemake o nā wahine e nānā. "Ua ʻoi aku ia ma mua o ke kapa lōʻihi, ka pūhaka cinched a me nā poʻohiwi poʻe." Ua hoʻokomo ʻo Palmer i kahi ʻaʻahu o ke kenekulia 19 i loko o ka hōʻike e hoʻomālamalama i ke ʻano o nā ʻano hana a Dior i hoʻolaʻa hou ai, e komo pū ana i nā bodices ʻelua a me nā corsetry. "Akā i ka manawa like, ʻo ka couture atelier kāna keʻena noiʻi a me ka hoʻomohala ʻana," i ʻōlelo ai ʻo ia, a ʻike ʻoe i nā manaʻo mai nā hōʻiliʻili mua e hoʻonui ana i nā makahiki e hiki mai ana.

ʻO kahi ʻāpana mea kūʻai kūʻokoʻa i hōʻaiʻē ʻia no ka hōʻikeʻike mai ka ʻohi ʻohi kaulana ʻo Toronto a me ka mea kūʻai lole lole ʻo Carol Tannenbaum. "ʻO kēia ka manawa o ka manaʻo maikaʻi, ka waiwai a me ka ulu ʻana, a ʻo nā kāhiko lole o Dior i kēlā au he nani maoli. Ua hana ʻia ma ka liʻiliʻi loa me ka ʻike nui i nā kikoʻī a me ke kūkulu ʻana. ʻO ka ʻāpana āna i hōʻaiʻē ai he lilia o ke awāwa i hana ʻia me nā momi me nā lau aniani i ninini ʻia.

"He mea nani kēia, a he kakaikahi loa ia. Ua hana ʻia ia e ka mea hoʻolālā nani o Dior i kēlā manawa, ʻo Roger Scemama. Ua uku au no ia mea. Na'u no ia. He lei loloa nani kona, a e waiho ana me he lole la. ʻAʻohe mea makaʻu e pili ana i ia mea." Ke kapa nei ʻo ia "kekahi o nā ʻāpana nui aʻu i ʻike ai i kaʻu ʻoihana, i loko o 35 mau makahiki," ʻōlelo ʻo ia ʻaʻole ʻo ia i ʻaʻahu iā ia mai ka pūnāwai i hala i kahi Bar Mitzvah ma New York. "He lā kula nā hale kūʻai me kēia manawa," a ʻo nā kumukūʻai i kēia manawa "papa ʻia," wahi āna.

He kiʻi animate ka fashion, i manaʻo ʻia e hoʻopili ʻia me ka pōʻaiapili kaiaulu, ka neʻe ʻana a me ke ʻano o ka mea hoʻohana, no laila he mea paʻakikī nā hōʻike staticmuseum i nā curators e ola ai. He mea koʻikoʻi kēia ma muli o kona pōʻaiapili kūloko: ʻO nā lole noʻonoʻo e like me ke ʻano kokoke loa no ka mea he ʻāpana lākou o ko mākou wā i hala. , he curator e kālele ana ma ka Hikina Hemisphere Textiles and Fashion.

ʻO nā lole a me nā lole lole i lilo i wahi wela o ke aʻo ʻana, wahi a Fee. "I nā makahiki 60, 70 a me 80, ua mālama ʻole ʻia nā textiles ma muli o ke ʻano kāne. Akā i nā makahiki 90, ua hoʻomaka nā anthropologists wahine e hoʻohui i ka lole ke kikowaena o ka ʻike, ka nohona pili kanaka a me ke ola hoʻomana. Ua hoʻi hou ʻo Fashion i ka radar, a ua hoʻihoʻi mai ia i kahi ʻano hiki ʻole iā mākou ke hoʻomau. ʻOi aku ka pili o nā waihona mōʻaukala, i kēia lā, wahi a Fee, no ka mea, ʻaʻole ʻo ke ʻano "ʻaʻole hikina i ke komohana, komohana i ka hikina, ʻaʻole ia he mea i luna-lalo wale nō. Ke ulu nei ka moʻomeheu alanui ma waena o ka manawa a me ka lewa." Ke ulu nei ka makemake nui i ke ʻano, ua lilo nā mea hōʻikeʻike kiʻi i mea hoʻohuli hilinaʻi hilinaʻi no nā hale moʻomeheu a puni ka honua. Ua lilo ʻo Anna Wintour's Met Ball i kono kūʻokoʻa loa ma ka ʻāina kaulana; ʻO ke kiʻi nui nui e heleuma i ka alemanaka hana a hoʻonui i ke kālā no ka Costume Institute ma ka Metropolitan Museum of Art ma New York City a hoʻolaha i kahi hōʻike hōʻikeʻike makahiki. Ke mālama nei ʻo Paris i kahi hoʻolauleʻa makahiki 70th o Dior ma ka Musee des Arts Decoratifs. ʻO Palmer ʻo ia ka mea kākau o kahi puke no Victoria & ʻO ka hale hōʻikeʻike Albert ma Lākana i kapa ʻia ʻo Dior: A New Look, A New Enterprise 1947 -57; ka V & Ua mālama ʻo A i nā hanana kūʻai kūʻai nui, me Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier a me Missoni.

A ma mua o kahi papa inoa o kēia hōʻikeʻike hou, e hana ana ʻo Palmer i kahi puke ʻē aʻe, e kālele ana i nā ʻāpana Dior o ROM i hoʻonohonoho ʻia e hoʻomaka i ka makahiki aʻe. Hōʻike ʻia me nā kiʻi i paʻi ʻia e ka mea paʻi kiʻi ʻo Dior Laziz Hamani, e kapa ʻia ʻo ia ʻo Christian Dior: History & Modernity,1947-1957, (ROM Press 2018) No ka ʻike e pili ana i ka moʻolelo aʻo a me nā polokalamu ʻē aʻe e pili ana i ka hōʻike, e hele i ka:

rom.on.ca/en/dior