I-Christian Dior's Post War Golden Age Iza ku-ROM

Kodwa futhi kwaphawula ubuso obuseduze kwabesifazane, ababeyeka imisebenzi yabo yesikhathi sempi babuyela kwabesilisa. Lokho kwakusho ukuhwebelana ngezingubo zabo zefekthri ukuze bathole i-rewback corsetry yekhulunyaka le-19 kanye nezingubo ezinzima kakhulu ukuze babuyele ekugcinweni kwendlu. Izimpahla ze-New Look bezifuna okuningi kumuntu ozigqokile. Ayesinda, ekhawulela umnyakazo futhi ephefumula futhi edinga umsizi noma ababili ukuze aboshwe. Engakhululeki neze.

Ukugubha iminyaka engu-70 kwasungulwa iNdlu, umbukiso, onesihloko esithi Christian Dior, uvulwa eROM ngoNov. 25 futhi isebenza kuze kube nguMashi 18. Ihlanganisa inkathi yegolide yomklami wezithonjana, iminyaka eyishumi esukela ku-1947 kuya ku-1957. Lo mbukiso uxhaswe nguHolt Renfrew - isitolo somnyango kanokusho sibe ngesokuqala ukuletha umsebenzi we-French couturier eCanada.

Ukulandelela ukuthi lezo zimangaliso ezenziwe ngezandla zabahwebi base-French couture zathinta kanjani uhwebo lwe-transatlantic kanye nezimpilo zabesifazane khona lapha e-Toronto kube yinto egxile kakhulu kumphathi we-ROM uDkt. Umzimba ka-Alexandra Palmer wokufunda.

UPalmer, ongumlondolozi omkhulu, uNora E. I-Vaughan fashion costume curatorship, ikhethe izinto ezingaphezu kwe-100, okuhlanganisa nezingubo ezingu-38 eqoqweni laphakade lemfashini nendwangu ye-ROM ebonisa ukubukeka kosuku, ukugqokwa kwakusihlwa kanye nezingubo zebhola zemicimbi emikhulu. Kukhona futhi izesekeli ezibolekiwe kanye nezibonelo zemifekethiso eyinkimbinkimbi esetshenziswa i-House of Dior ngaleso sikhathi.

Enqubweni yokulungiselela umbukiso, ithimba lemnyuziyamu labuyisela emuva amaphethini ayinkimbinkimbi ngendlela emangalisayo, likala futhi likala futhi lenza umsebenzi wabaseshi ngemininingwane yezingcezu zangempela, okuyindlela elikhanyisa ngayo izixhumanisi zabo zemfashini yomlando. Eziningi zalezi zingubo zanikelwa ngabakwaToronto naseMontreal socialites, ababegqoke lezi zicucu lapha eCanada.

Baphinde bathola ukuthi lezi zicucu zazinzima kangakanani. Lezi zingubo ezisetshenzisiwe, "inani elimangalisayo lezinto," kusho uPalmer. Ukuze enze isiketi sengubo yebhola ka-"Isabelle" esemthethweni yango-1948 egqamile embukisweni, u-Dior wasebenzisa iziyingi ezimbili eziphelele zezinto ezibonakalayo, indwangu engamamitha ayi-13, noma ukuyibeka ngendlela ebukekayo, eyanele ukumboza osofa abambalwa.

Lokhu kugabadela okujabulisayo bekusenhliziyweni ye-New Look, usho kanje. Amanothi ombukiso, ethulwe ku-ipadsinuser-friendly umehluko endleleni yesikole esidala yezinto abazichazayo, acaphuna amazwi acashunwe kuDior ngokwakhe athandana naye ngo-1956: "Impi yayiphelile... Isisindo sempahla yami ewubukhazikhazi, ama-velvet ami asindayo nama-brocade sasibaluleke ngani? Lapho izinhliziyo zilula, izindwangu nje zazingawusindi umzimba phansi.” Umphetho wawukala cishe amamitha angu-14 ukuzungeza: lokho kuyizandla eziningi (noma ama-petites mains ngokolimi lwe-couture atelier) kanye nokuthunga okuningi. I-atelier yayisebenza nabafekethisi abangochwepheshe. (Umsebenzi ovela ezindlini ezifekethisiweyo ezintathu uDior aqashwe ngazo kuleyo minyaka eyishumi yokuqala - ezimbili zazo ezisasebenza isikhathi eside - zimelelwe embukisweni.) Kanye nezicathulo ezenziwe ngokwezifiso (ezinye ezibolekwe e-Bata Shoe Museum), izesekeli, ubucwebe nezigqoko. Lo mbukiso uzogqamisa ubuciko obumangalisayo nobucishe balahleka bezingcweti “abakhiqize amaribhoni angavamile, ubuhlalu, ama-sequin kanye nemifekethiso uDior ayifake ezingutsheni zakhe ngosizo lwabakhi bakhe bephethini abacabangayo, abathungi nabathungi,” kusho uPalmer.

I-Dior atelier yayinekhabethe layo noma izisebenzi ezihlala njalo zama-mannequins (amamodeli ama-a.k.a), futhi ingubo ngayinye yayingena futhi igqokwe yi-mannequin ethile. Phela, iningi lama-mannequins lalihamba ngegama elilodwa kuphela, ngakho empeleni laliyisibonelo sama-supermodel anamuhla. Ingubo ngayinye embukisweni ilandelelwe emuva ku-mannequin ababeyigqoke embukisweni wangempela.

"UDior ukhombise ukubukeka okuphelele, iphakethe lonke," kusho uPalmer. Kodwa indaba yokuthi izingubo zaba yini ngeyabanikazi. Ngaphambi kokuthi "i-vintage" yomklami ibe imakethe eshisa kakhulu, osocialite babevame ukunikela ngezinto zabo ezinhle kumamnyuziyamu ukuze kulondolozwe futhi kufundwe kahle. “Ifasitela elikulo liyavalwa,” usho kanje.

UChristian Dior wangemva kwempi uyisudi eqinile yezingobo zomlando ze-ROM, futhi izibonelo embukisweni zihlanganisa ingubo ebabazekayo yekwindla ka-1957 ebizwa ngokuthi "Venezuela," okwakuyisipho esivela ku-Toronto philanthropist uCarol Rapp. Futhi i-Estate of Molly Roebuck yanikela ngengubo ye-Dior ka-Elaine Roebuck owayeneminyaka engu-12 ngaleso sikhathi, inhlanganisela ye-silika kasilika efekethisiwe kakotini, eyayigqokwa ku-Bat Mitzvah wakhe e-Toronto entwasahlobo ka-1957. Ingubo yentombazane encane ibonisa isitayela se-Dior esihunyushwe ngemininingwane ehambisana neminyaka.

Umbuzo kaPalmer uthi: "Kungani uDior aphumelele?" Yebo, wayenabatshalizimali besikhwama abajulile ngesikhathi sokukhula komnotho. "Kodwa abantu bekusadingeka bathenge," usho njalo, futhi ukubuyela ezindleleni ezicindezelayo ngemuva kwenkululeko yokugqoka ngesikhathi sempi kubonakala sengathi kuphambene. Kodwa-ke, imfashini imayelana nokusabela. "Iminyaka yama-50 kwakufanele yenzeke ukuze i-'60 yenzeke," usho kanje.

U-Dior “wayenombono oqinile,” usho kanje, owawuhambisana nendlela abesifazane ababefuna ukubukeka ngayo. "Singaphezu kwesiketi eside, ukhalo olucijile namahlombe ayindilinga." U-Palmer ufake ingubo yekhulu le-19 embukisweni wokukhanyisa uhlobo lwamasu u-Dior ayewavuselela, okuhlanganisa ama-bodices aphindwe kabili kanye ne-corsetry. "Kodwa ngesikhathi esifanayo, i-couture atelier kwakuyilebhu yakhe yocwaningo nentuthuko," esho, futhi ubona imibono evela kumaqoqo angaphambili ikhula eminyakeni eyalandela.

Isiqephu sobucwebe esivelele esibolekwe embukisweni sivela kumqoqi wodumo waseToronto kanye nomdayisi wobucwebe bemvunulo uCarol Tannenbaum. "Lesi kwakuyinkathi yethemba, ingcebo nokukhula, futhi ubucwebe bezingubo zikaDior ngaleso sikhathi babunobuhle bangempela. Yenziwe ngenani elincane kakhulu ngokuqwashisa okukhulu ngemininingwane nokwakhiwa. Ucezu alubolekile luwumnduze womgexo wasesigodini owenziwe ngamaparele anamahlamvu ezingilazi athululiwe.

“Lobu ubucwebe obuyinganekwane, futhi buyivelakancane. Yenziwe umklami wobucwebe ka-Dior ngaleso sikhathi, u-Roger Scemama." U-Tannenbaum wayithola embukisweni wezobuciko we-Armory eNew York eminyakeni eminingi edlule, "Kwavele kwangimangaza. Ngakhokha imali eshisiwe ngakho. Kwakufanele kube ngowami. Inomugqa omuhle wentamo, futhi ibeka njengengubo. Akukho lutho olwesabekayo ngakho." Eyibiza ngokuthi "enye yezingcezu ezinhle kakhulu engizibone emsebenzini wami, eminyakeni engu-35," uthi ubengakaze ayigqoke kusukela ngentwasahlobo edlule e-Bar Mitzvah eNew York. "Izindlu zendali zinosuku lwenkundla ngalesi sikhathi," futhi amanani manje "ayenqabela," usho kanje.

Imfashini iwubuciko obuphilayo, okuhloswe ukuthi kufakwe phakathi komongo wezenhlalo, ukunyakaza kanye nobuntu bomuntu oyigqokile, ngakho imibukiso yemnyuziyamu emile ihlale iyinselele kubaqaphi ukuba bayiphilise. Lesi siyaphoqa ngenxa yesimo saso sendawo: Izingubo zokuphupha zibonakala ziseduze ngandlela thize ngoba ziyingxenye yesikhathi esidlule, futhi. Futhi naphezu kwesikhalo saso esingokwemvelo sobulili, umfundaze wemfashini wona usale ngemuva kwezinye izifundo isikhathi eside ngenxa yokuchema kwendabuko, kusho uzakwabo u-Sarah Fee. , umlondolozi ogxile ku-Eastern Hemisphere Textiles and Fashion.

Imfashini nezindwangu sekusanda kuba yizindawo ezishisayo zokufunda, kusho uFee. “Ngama-60s, 70s kanye nama-80s, izindwangu bezinganakwa ngenxa yokuchema kwabesilisa. Kodwa ngeminyaka yawo-'90s, izazi ze-anthropologists zabesifazane zaqala ukwenza ukuxhumana ukuthi indwangu iyisisekelo sobunikazi, impilo yomphakathi kanye nempilo yenkolo. Imfashini ibuyele ku-radar, futhi isiyibuyisele ezingeni kangangokuthi asisakwazi ukuqhubeka.” I-ROM inezinto ezingaba ngu-55,000 eqoqweni layo lendwangu ehlala njalo, kusukela ku-BCE kuze kube manje, emhlabeni wonke nakuwo wonke amasiko. Izingobo zomlando zinokubaluleka okwengeziwe, namuhla, kusho u-Fee, ngoba imfashini "ayiyona nje impumalanga kuye entshonalanga, entshonalanga kuya empumalanga, akuyona into ephuma phezulu kuphela. Isiko lomgwaqo senzeka phakathi nesikhathi nendawo." Njengoba isithakazelo esidumile kwezemfashini sikhula, imibukiso yemfashini nayo isiphenduke izingxoxo ezithembekile zamamnyuziyamu emhlabeni jikelele. I-Met Ball ka-Anna Wintour isiphenduke isimemo esikhethekile kunazo zonke ezweni likasaziwayo; ubhazabhaza wesithombe op uqinisa ikhalenda lemfashini futhi uqongelela imali ye-Costume Institute e-Metropolitan Museum of Art e-New York City futhi yethula umbukiso wemfashini waminyaka yonke. IParis njengamanje isingathe umgubho weminyaka engama-70 kaDior eMusee des Arts Decoratifs. UPalmer ngokwakhe ungumbhali wencwadi yeVictoria & I-Albert Museum eLondon ebizwa ngokuthi i-Dior: A New Look, A New Enterprise 1947 -57; i-V & U-A ubambe imicimbi eminingi yemfashini ethengiswayo, okuhlanganisa u-Alexander McQueen, uJean Paul Gaultier kanye noMissoni.

Futhi esikhundleni sekhathalogi yalo mbukiso omusha, u-Palmer uzobe ekhiqiza enye incwadi, egxile ezingxenyeni ze-ROM's Dior ezizokwethulwa ekuqaleni konyaka ozayo. Idwetshwe nezithombe ezishuthwe umthwebuli wezithombe osemthethweni u-Dior u-Laziz Hamani, izobizwa ngokuthi i-Christian Dior: Umlando & Isimanjemanje, 1947-1957, (ROM Cindezela 2018) Ukuze uthole ulwazi ngochungechunge lwezinkulumo nolunye uhlelo oluhlobene nombukiso, vakashela ku-:

rom.on.ca/en/dior