Kirista Dior's Postwar Golden Age Ya zo ga ROM

Amma kuma ya zama abin ban mamaki ga mata, waɗanda ke ba da ayyukansu na lokacin yaƙi ga maza. Wannan yana nufin yin ciniki a cikin masana'antar su don jigilar corsetry na ƙarni na 19 da wasu riguna masu wahala don komawa gidan adanawa. Kayayyakin Sabon Kallo sun bukaci da yawa daga cikin mai sawa. Suna da nauyi, hana motsi da numfashi kuma suna buƙatar mataimaki ko biyu don ɗaure cikin. Da kyar aka sami 'yanci.

Ana bikin cika shekaru 70 na kafuwar majalisar, wani baje koli mai taken Christian Dior, ya buɗe a ROM a ranar Nuwamba. 25 kuma yana gudana har zuwa Maris 18. Ya kai shekarun zinari na zanen wurin hutawa, shekaru goma da ke gudana daga 1947 zuwa 1957. Holt Renfrew ne ya dauki nauyin baje kolin - kantin kayan alatu shi ne farkon wanda ya kawo aikin ma'aikacin Faransa zuwa Kanada.

Binciko yadda waɗannan abubuwan al'ajabi na hannu na kayan kwalliyar kayan kwalliyar Faransa suka shafi kasuwancin transatlantic da rayuwar mata a nan Toronto ya kasance mafi yawan mai kula da ROM Dr. Alexandra Palmer ta jiki na malanta.

Palmer, wanda shine babban mai kula, Nora E. Kayan kwalliyar kayan kwalliyar kayan kwalliyar Vaughan, ya zaɓi abubuwa sama da 100, gami da kayayyaki 38 daga kayan dindindin na ROM da tarin yadin da ke nuna kamannin rana, suturar yamma da rigunan ƙwallon ƙafa don manyan lokuta. Har ila yau, akwai na'urorin haɗi da aka aro da kuma misalan ƙayatattun kayan sawa da gidan Dior ke amfani da shi a wancan lokacin.

A cikin tsarin shirye-shiryen baje kolin, ƙungiyar gidan kayan gargajiyar sun sake yin gyare-gyaren gyare-gyare masu ban sha'awa, auna da aunawa kuma sun yi aikin bincike kan cikakkun bayanai na ainihin guda, wanda shine yadda suka haskaka hanyoyin haɗin gwiwar su zuwa salon tarihi. Yawancin waɗannan riguna sun ba da gudummawa daga Toronto da Montreal socialites, waɗanda suka sanya waɗannan guntu a nan Kanada.

Sun kuma gano yadda a zahiri ke da wahalar sanya waɗannan kayan. An yi amfani da waɗannan riguna, "yawan abu mai ban sha'awa," in ji Palmer. Don yin siket don 1948 "Isabelle" rigar ball na yau da kullun wanda ke haskaka nunin, Dior ya yi amfani da cikakkun da'irori biyu na kayan, wasu masana'anta na mita 13, ko kuma sanya shi cikin hangen nesa, isa ya rufe wasu sofas.

Wannan almubazzarancin farin ciki ya kasance a zuciyar Sabon Kallo, in ji ta. Bayanin nunin, wanda aka gabatar akan abokantaka na ipadsinuser da sabanin tsohuwar makaranta na abubuwan da suka bayyana, suna ambaton wata magana daga Dior da kansa tun daga 1956: "Yaƙin ya ƙare ... Menene nauyin kayana na daɗaɗɗen kayana, masu nauyi masu nauyi da brocades? Lokacin da zukata suka yi haske, yadudduka kawai ba za su iya auna jiki ba." Ƙashin ya auna kusan mita 14 a cikin kewaye: wato hannaye da yawa (ko ƙananan ƙananan a cikin lafazin couture atelier) da ɗinki mai yawa. Atelier ya yi aiki tare da ƙwararrun masana. (Aiki daga gidaje uku Dior da aka yi aiki a cikin shekaru goma na farko - biyu daga cikinsu ba su da tsayi - ana wakilta a cikin nunin.) Ƙarin takalma na al'ada (wasu aro daga Bata Shoe Museum), kayan haɗi, kayan ado da huluna. Baje kolin zai ba da haske na ban mamaki kuma kusan asara na masu sana'ar hannu waɗanda "sun samar da ribbons na ban mamaki, beads, sequins da embroides waɗanda Dior ya haɗa su a cikin rigunansa tare da taimakon masu yin ƙirar sa, tela da masu sana'a," in ji Palmer.

Dior atelier yana da nasa ɗakin kwana ko ma'aikatan mannequin na dindindin (a.k.a model), kuma kowace rigar ta dace da wani takamaiman mannequin. Ba zato ba tsammani, yawancin mannequins sun tafi da suna ɗaya kawai, don haka a zahiri sun kasance samfuri na supermodel na zamani. Kowace rigar da ke cikin nunin an gano ta zuwa mannequin wanda ya sa ta a cikin wasan kwaikwayo na asali.

"Dior ya nuna cikakken kamanni, duka kunshin," in ji Palmer. Amma labarin abin da riguna suka zama na masu shi ne. Kafin zanen "vintage" ya zama irin wannan kasuwa mai zafi, masu zaman kansu sun kasance suna ba da kyauta ga gidajen tarihi don adanawa da kuma nazarin yadda ya kamata. Tace " taga hakan yana rufe.

Postwar Christian Dior yana da kwat da kwat da kwat da wando na ROM archives, kuma misalai a cikin show sun hada da m fall kakar 1957 hadaddiyar giyar dress mai suna "Venezuela," wanda shi ne kyauta daga Toronto philanthropist Carol Rapp. Kuma Estate na Molly Roebuck ya ba da gudummawar rigar Dior na Elaine Roebuck mai shekaru 12 a lokacin, kayan siliki na siliki tare da kayan auduga, wanda aka sa wa Bat Mitzvah a Toronto a cikin bazara na 1957. Tufafin yarinyar ya nuna salon Dior wanda aka fassara a cikin cikakkun bayanai masu dacewa da shekaru.

Tambayar Palmer ita ce: "Me yasa Dior ya yi nasara?" Haka ne, yana da masu zuba jari mai zurfi a cikin lokacin bunkasar tattalin arziki. "Amma har yanzu mutane sun saye a ciki," in ji ta, da kuma komawa zuwa wasu salo masu takurawa bayan 'yancin yin suturar lokacin yaƙi da alama da farko ba ta dace ba. Amma sai, fashion ne game da dauki. "'Yan shekarun 50 dole ne su faru don 60 ya faru," in ji ta.

Dior yana da "kyakkyawar ra'ayi," in ji ta, wanda ya dace da yadda mata suke so su kasance. "Ya fi doguwar siket, cinkoson kugu da zagaye kafadu." Palmer ya haɗa da riga na ƙarni na 19 a cikin baje kolin don haskaka irin fasahohin da Dior ke farfaɗo da su, ciki har da bodices biyu da corsetry. "Amma a lokaci guda, couture atelier shine binciken bincikensa da haɓakawa," in ji ta, kuma kuna ganin ra'ayoyi daga tarin da suka gabata suna haɓaka ta cikin shekaru masu zuwa.

Wani fitaccen kayan adon da aka aro don baje kolin ya fito ne daga mashahurin mai tara kayan adon Toronto da dillalin kayan adon Carol Tannenbaum. "Wannan lokaci ne na kyakkyawan fata, arziki da girma, kuma kayan ado na Dior a wancan lokacin yana da girman gaske. An yi shi a cikin ƙananan ƙima tare da wayar da kan jama'a ga daki-daki da gini. Guntun da ta aron ita ce lily na kwalliyar kwarin da aka yi da lu'u-lu'u mai ruwan gilashi.

"Wannan kayan ado ne na fantasy, kuma yana da wuyar gaske. Mai tsara kayan ado na Dior ne ya yi shi a lokacin, Roger Scemama." Tannenbaum ya same shi a wurin wasan kwaikwayo na Armory art a New York shekaru da yawa da suka wuce, "Yana ba ni mamaki kawai. Na biya ta arziki. Dole ne ya zama nawa. Tana da kyakykyawar doguwar wuya, kuma tana kwance kamar riga. Babu wani abu mai ban tsoro game da shi." Ta kira shi "ɗaya daga cikin manyan abubuwan da na gani a cikin aiki na, a cikin shekaru 35," ta ce ba ta sanya shi ba tun lokacin bazara na bara zuwa Bar Mitzvah a New York. "Gidan gwanjon suna yin ranar fage tare da wannan lokacin," kuma farashin yanzu ya "haramta," in ji ta.

Fashion fasaha ce ta rayayye, ana nufin a cusa ta da mahallin zamantakewa, motsi da halayen mai sawa, don haka nunin kayan tarihi koyaushe kalubale ne ga masu kula da su don kawo rayuwa. Wannan yana da tursasawa saboda mahallin gida: The fantasydresses ze ko ta yaya kusa domin suna daga cikin abubuwan da suka gabata, kuma. Kuma duk da dabi'ar jima'i- roko, fashion scholarship kanta ya ragu a baya sauran batutuwa na dogon lokaci saboda na gargajiya son zuciya, in ji abokin aiki Sarah Fee. , Ma'aikaci mai ba da hankali kan Yaduwar Gabas da Kayayyakin Kayayyaki.

Kayayyakin zamani da masaku sun zama wurare masu zafi na nazari, in ji Fee. "A cikin shekarun 60, 70s da 80s, an yi watsi da kayan sakawa saboda son zuciya na maza. Amma a cikin shekarun 90s, masana ilimin ɗan adam na mata sun fara haɗa alaƙar cewa tufa ce ta tsakiya ga ainihi, rayuwar zamantakewa da rayuwar addini. Fashion ya dawo kan radar, kuma ya dawo da shi har da kyar ba za mu iya ci gaba ba." ROM ɗin yana da abubuwa kusan 55,000 a cikin tarin masaku na dindindin, kama daga KZ zuwa yau, a duk faɗin duniya da al'adu. Rukunan tarihin sun fi dacewa, a yau, in ji Fee, saboda salon "ba kawai gabas zuwa yamma ba, yamma zuwa gabas, ba abu ne mai girma ba kawai. Al'adar titi tana faruwa a cikin lokaci da sararin samaniya." Yayin da sha'awar salon ke girma, abubuwan baje kolin kayan kwalliya kuma sun zama amintattun masu bibiyar kayan tarihi na duniya. Anna Wintour's Met Ball ya zama mafi keɓantaccen gayyata a cikin shahararrun mutane; Katafaren hoto na kalandar kalandar kuma yana tara kuɗi don Cibiyar Kayayyakin Kayayyaki a Gidan Tarihi na Fasaha na Metropolitan a birnin New York kuma ya ƙaddamar da baje kolin kayan ado na shekara-shekara. Har ila yau, Paris tana karbar bakuncin bikin cika shekaru 70 na Dior a Musee des Arts Decoratifs. Palmer kanta ita ce marubucin littafi na Victoria & Gidan kayan tarihi na Albert a Landan mai suna Dior: Sabon Duba, Sabuwar Kasuwanci 1947 -57; da V & A ya gudanar da al'amuran salon siyarwa da yawa, gami da Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier da Missoni.

Kuma maimakon wani kasida na wannan sabon nuni, Palmer za a samar da wani littafi, mayar da hankali a kan ROM ta Dior guda saita kaddamar a farkon shekara mai zuwa. An kwatanta shi da hotuna da mai daukar hoto Dior Laziz Hamani ya yi, za a kira shi Christian Dior: Tarihi & Zamani, 1947-1957, (ROM Press 2018) Don ƙarin bayani kan jerin laccoci da sauran shirye-shirye masu alaƙa da shirin, jeka.:

rom.on.ca/en/dior