Christian Dior's Post War Golden Age Imabwera ku ROM

Koma zidawonetsanso za nkhope ya azimayi, omwe amasiya ntchito zawo zankhondo kwa amuna. Izi zikutanthawuza kugulitsa zophimba za fakitale za corsetry ya zaka za m'ma 1900 ndi zovala zina zovuta kwambiri kuti zibwerere kunyumba. Zovala za New Look zinkafuna zambiri za wovala. Anali olemetsa, osasunthika komanso opumira ndipo amafunikira wothandizira kapena awiri kuti amangirire.

Pokumbukira zaka 70 za kukhazikitsidwa kwa Nyumbayi, chiwonetsero, chotchedwa Christian Dior, chidzatsegulidwa ku ROM pa Nov. 25 ndipo imatha mpaka Marichi 18. Zimatengera zaka zamtengo wapatali za wojambula zithunzi, zaka khumi kuyambira 1947 mpaka 1957. Chiwonetserochi chimathandizidwa ndi a Holt Renfrew - malo ogulitsira apamwamba anali oyamba kubweretsa ntchito ya French couturier ku Canada.

Kuwona momwe zodabwitsa zopangidwa ndi manja za ma couture ateliers aku France zidakhudzira malonda am'mphepete mwa nyanja ya Atlantic komanso miyoyo ya azimayi pomwe pano ku Toronto kwakhala gawo lalikulu la woyang'anira ROM Dr. Bungwe la Alexandra Palmer la maphunziro.

Palmer, yemwe ndi woyang'anira wamkulu, Nora E. Woyang'anira zovala za Vaughan wasankha zinthu zopitilira 100, kuphatikiza zovala 38 kuchokera pagulu lazovala zanthawi zonse za ROM zowonetsa mawonekedwe amasiku, zovala zamadzulo ndi mikanjo ya mpira pamisonkhano yayikulu. Palinso zida zobwerekedwa ndi zitsanzo za nsalu zovuta zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito ndi Nyumba ya Dior panthawiyo.

Pokonzekera ziwonetsero, gulu losungiramo zinthu zakale lidasinthanso machitidwe ovuta kwambiri, kuyeza ndi kuyeza ndikuchita ntchito yofufuza tsatanetsatane wa zidutswa zenizeni, momwe adaunikira maulalo awo ku mafashoni akale. Ambiri mwa madiresi awa adaperekedwa ndi a Toronto ndi Montreal socialites, omwe adavala zidutswa izi kuno ku Canada.

Anazindikiranso kuti zidutswazi zinali zovuta kuvala. Zovala izi zidagwiritsidwa ntchito, "zambiri zopatsa chidwi," akutero Palmer. Kuti apange siketi ya 1948 "Isabelle" yovomerezeka ya mpira, yomwe ili yowonekera kwambiri pachiwonetsero, Dior adagwiritsa ntchito mizere iwiri yathunthu, pafupifupi 13 mita ya nsalu, kapena kuyiyika bwino, yokwanira kuphimba sofa angapo.

Kupambana kosangalatsa kumeneku kunali pamtima pa New Look, akutero. Zolemba zawonetsero, zomwe zaperekedwa pa ipadsinuser-zochezeka kusiyana ndi machitidwe akale a sukulu zomwe amafotokoza, amatchula mawu ochokera kwa Dior mwiniwake wa 1956: "Nkhondo idatha ... Kodi kulemera kwa zinthu zanga zapamwamba, ma velveti anga olemera ndi ma brocades zinali zotani? Pamene mitima inali yopepuka, nsalu wamba sizikanalemetsa thupi.” Mpendero wake unayeza pafupifupi mamita 14 m’chizungulire: umenewo ndi manja ambiri (kapena mapiko aang’ono m’mawu a couture atelier) ndi kusoka kochuluka. Ateliyo ankagwira ntchito ndi akatswiri opeta nsalu. (Ntchito zochokera ku nyumba zitatu zokongoletsedwa ndi Dior zomwe zinagwiritsidwa ntchito m'zaka khumi zoyambirirazo - ziwiri zomwe sizinagwire ntchito kwa nthawi yayitali - zikuyimiridwa muwonetsero.) Kuwonjezera pa nsapato zachizolowezi (zina zobwereka ku Bata Shoe Museum), zowonjezera, zodzikongoletsera ndi zipewa. Chiwonetserochi chidzawonetsa luso lapadera komanso lotsala pang'ono kutayika la amisiri omwe "adapanga nthiti, mikanda, sequins ndi zokongoletsera zomwe Dior anaziphatikiza mu madiresi ake mothandizidwa ndi opanga mapangidwe ake, osoka ndi osoka," akutero Palmer.

Dior atelier inali ndi kabati yakeyake kapena gulu lokhazikika la mannequins (aka zitsanzo), ndipo chovala chilichonse chinali choyenera ndikuvala ndi mannequin inayake. Zodabwitsa ndizakuti, ambiri mwa mannequins anapita ndi dzina limodzi lokha, kotero iwo anali kwenikweni chitsanzo cha supermodels zamakono. Chovala chilichonse chomwe chili pachiwonetserocho chidachokera ku mannequin omwe adavala pachiwonetsero choyambirira.

"Dior adawonetsa kuyang'ana kwathunthu, phukusi lonse," akutero Palmer. Koma nkhani yoti madiresiwo adasanduka ndi ya eni ake. Opanga "mphesa" asanakhale msika wotenthedwa kwambiri, anthu ochita nawo masewerawa ankakonda kupereka zokongoletsa zawo kumalo osungiramo zinthu zakale kuti asungidwe bwino komanso aphunzire. "Zenera lomwe lili pamenepo likutseka," akutero.

Pambuyo pa nkhondo Christian Dior ndi suti amphamvu a ROM archives, ndi zitsanzo muwonetsero zikuphatikizapo zochititsa chidwi kugwa nyengo 1957 malo omwera kavalidwe dzina lake "Venezuela," amene anali mphatso yochokera ku Toronto philanthropist Carol Rapp. Ndipo a Estate of Molly Roebuck adapereka diresi la Dior la Elaine Roebuck wazaka 12, chovala cha silika chokhala ndi thonje, chomwe adavala kwa Bat Mitzvah wake ku Toronto kumapeto kwa 1957. Chovala chamsungwana chaching'ono chikuwonetsa kalembedwe ka Dior kumasuliridwa mwatsatanetsatane wazaka zambiri.

Funso la Palmer ndilakuti: "N'chifukwa chiyani Dior anapambana?" Inde, anali ndi ndalama zozama m'thumba panthawi yachuma. "Koma anthu amayenera kugulabe," akutero, ndipo kubwereranso ku masitayelo okakamiza pambuyo pa ufulu wakuvala nthawi yankhondo kumawoneka ngati kosagwirizana. Koma ndiye, mafashoni ali pafupi kuchitapo kanthu. "Zaka za m'ma 50 ziyenera kuchitika kuti ma 60 achitike," akutero.

Dior anali ndi "lingaliro lamphamvu kwambiri," akutero, lomwe limagwirizana ndi momwe akazi ankafunira kuoneka. "Ndi yoposa siketi yayitali, chiuno chopindika komanso mapewa ozungulira." Palmer adaphatikizanso chovala chazaka za zana la 19 pachiwonetsero chowunikira mtundu wa njira zomwe Dior anali kutsitsimutsa, kuphatikiza ma bodices awiri ndi corsetry. "Koma nthawi yomweyo, wopanga ma couture anali labu yake yofufuza ndi chitukuko," akutero, ndipo mukuwona malingaliro ochokera m'magulu akale akukula m'zaka zotsatila.

Zodzikongoletsera zodziwika bwino zomwe zidabwerekedwa kuti ziwonetsedwe zimachokera kwa wokhometsa wotchuka wa ku Toronto komanso wogulitsa zodzikongoletsera zobvala Carol Tannenbaum. "Iyi inali nthawi yachiyembekezo, chuma ndi kukula, ndipo zodzikongoletsera za Dior mu nthawi imeneyo zinali ndi kukongola kwenikweni. Zinapangidwa mochepa kwambiri ndi chidziwitso chachikulu chatsatanetsatane ndi zomangamanga. Chidutswa chomwe wabwereketsa ndi kakombo wa m'chigwa chopangidwa ndi ngale zokhala ndi masamba agalasi.

“Izi ndi zodzikongoletsera zongopeka, ndipo ndizosowa kwambiri. Zinapangidwa ndi wojambula zodzikongoletsera wa Dior panthawiyo, Roger Scemama." Tannenbaum adazipeza pawonetsero wazithunzi za Armory ku New York zaka zambiri zapitazo, "Zinangondidabwitsa. Ndinalipira ndalama zambiri chifukwa cha izo. Icho chinayenera kukhala changa. Ili ndi khosi lalitali lokongola, ndipo imagona ngati chovala. Palibe mantha.” Pochitcha kuti “chimodzi mwa zidutswa zabwino kwambiri zomwe ndaziwona m’ntchito yanga, m’zaka 35,” iye anati anali asanavale kuyambira masika apitawa kupita ku Bar Mitzvah ku New York. "Nyumba zogulitsira zili ndi tsiku lantchito ndi nthawi ino," ndipo mitengo "ndi yoletsa," akutero.

Mafashoni ndi luso lamoyo, loyenera kuphatikizidwa ndi chikhalidwe cha anthu, mayendedwe ndi umunthu wa wovala, kotero mawonetsero osasunthika nthawi zonse amakhala ovuta kuti osamalira awonetsetse. Izi ndi zokakamiza chifukwa cha komweko: Zovala zongopeka zimawoneka ngati zapafupi chifukwa ndi gawo lathu lakale. Ndipo ngakhale kuti zimakopa chidwi chogonana, maphunziro a mafashoni adatsalira pambuyo pa maphunziro ena kwa nthawi yayitali chifukwa cha tsankho, akutero mnzake Sarah Fee. , wosamalira yemwe amayang'ana kwambiri Zovala ndi Mafashoni za Kum'mawa kwa Hemisphere.

Mafashoni ndi nsalu zangoyamba kumene kuphunzira, Fee akuti. "M'zaka za m'ma 60s, 70s ndi 80s, nsalu zinkanyalanyazidwa chifukwa cha kukondera kwa amuna. Koma m'zaka za m'ma 90s, akatswiri a chikhalidwe cha akazi anayamba kugwirizana kuti nsalu ndi yofunika kwambiri pakudziwika, moyo wa anthu komanso moyo wachipembedzo. Mafashoni abwereranso pa radar, ndipo abweretsanso kumlingo woti sitingathe kupitilirabe." ROM ili ndi zinthu pafupifupi 55,000 m'magulu ake ansalu okhazikika, kuyambira BCE mpaka pano, padziko lonse lapansi komanso zikhalidwe zosiyanasiyana. Zosungira zakale zimakhala ndi zofunikira kwambiri, lero, akutero Fee, chifukwa mafashoni "sikungochokera kummawa kupita kumadzulo, kumadzulo mpaka kummawa, sizochitika zapamwamba zokha. Chikhalidwe cha m'misewu chikuchitika nthawi ndi nthawi." Pamene chidwi chodziwika pa mafashoni chikukula, ziwonetsero za mafashoni zakhalanso njira zodalirika zosinthira malo osungiramo zinthu zakale padziko lonse lapansi. Mpira wa Anna Wintour wa Met Ball wakhala mayitanidwe apadera kwambiri padziko lapansi otchuka; chimphona cha chithunzi op chimakhazikitsa kalendala ya mafashoni ndikukweza ndalama ku Costume Institute ku Metropolitan Museum of Art ku New York City ndikuyambitsa chiwonetsero chazaka zapachaka. Paris ikuchititsanso chikondwerero chazaka 70 cha Dior ku Musee des Arts Decoratifs. Palmer mwiniwake ndiye wolemba buku la Victoria & Albert Museum ku London yotchedwa Dior: A New Look, A New Enterprise 1947 -57; ndi V & A adachita zochitika zambiri zamafashoni, kuphatikiza Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier ndi Missoni.

Ndipo m'malo molemba kabuku kachiwonetsero chatsopanochi, Palmer apanga buku lina, kuyang'ana kwambiri zidutswa za Dior za ROM zomwe zidzayambike kumayambiriro kwa chaka chamawa. Zojambulidwa ndi zithunzi zojambulidwa ndi wojambula wa Dior Laziz Hamani, zidzatchedwa Christian Dior: Mbiri & Modernity, 1947-1957, (ROM Press 2018) Kuti mudziwe zambiri pamitu yankhani ndi mapulogalamu ena okhudzana ndiwonetsero, pitani ku:

rom.on.ca/en/dior