Christian Dior's Postwar Golden Age na-abịa na ROM

Mana ọ bụkwa ihe gbasara ihu maka ụmụ nwanyị, bụ ndị na-enyefe ndị nwoke ọrụ ha n'oge agha. Nke ahụ pụtara ịzụ ahịa na mkpuchi ụlọ ọrụ ha maka corsetry narị afọ nke 19 na ụfọdụ uwe mara mma ịlaghachi n'ụlọ. Ekike New Look chọrọ ọtụtụ ndị na-eyi ya. Ha dị arọ, na-egbochi mmegharị na iku ume na-achọ onye inyeaka ma ọ bụ abụọ iji kedo n'ime. Ọ siri ike ịtọhapụ.

N'ịka akara ncheta afọ 70 nke ntọala Ụlọ ahụ, ihe ngosi, akpọrọ Christian Dior, ga-emepe na ROM na Nov. 25 ma na-agafe na Machị 18. Ọ gbasara afọ ọla edo nke onye nrụpụta ihe ngosi, afọ iri na-aga site na 1947 ruo 1957. Ọ bụ Holt Renfrew na-akwado ihe ngosi a - ụlọ ahịa ngalaba okomoko bụ onye mbụ butere ọrụ couturier France na Canada.

Ịchọgharị ka ihe ndị a na-eji aka rụọ nke ndị na-emepụta ihe na French couture si metụta azụmahịa transatlantic na ndụ ụmụ nwanyị ebe a na Toronto bụ ihe na-elekwasị anya na ọtụtụ onye nlekọta ROM Dr. Alexandra Palmer's body of scholarship.

Palmer, onye bụ onye isi nchịkwa, Nora E. Vaughan ejiji ejiji curatorship, ahọrọla ihe karịrị 100 ihe, gụnyere ekike 38 sitere na ejiji na-adịgide adịgide nke ROM na nchịkọta akwa na-egosi ọdịdị ụbọchị, uwe mgbede na uwe bọọlụ maka nnukwu mmemme. Enwekwara ngwa agbaziri agbaziri na ihe atụ nke akwa akwa dị mgbagwoju anya nke Ụlọ Dior ji mee ihe n'oge ahụ.

N'ime usoro nkwadebe ihe ngosi ahụ, ndị otu ngosi nka weghaara usoro dị mgbagwoju anya nke ukwuu, tụọ ma tụọ ma rụọ ọrụ nyocha na nkọwapụta nke iberibe ahụ n'ezie, nke bụ otu ha si kpughee njikọ ha na ejiji akụkọ ihe mere eme. Ọtụtụ n'ime uwe ndị a bụ ndị Toronto na Montreal socialites, bụ ndị yi uwe ndị a ebe a na Canada nyere onyinye.

Ha chọpụtakwara otú uwe ndị a siri dị egwu n'ezie. Uwe ndị a na-eji, "ihe na-akpali akpali," Palmer na-ekwu. Iji mee ka uwe mwụda maka 1948 "Izabelle" uwe mwụda mara mma nke bụ ihe ngosi nke ihe ngosi ahụ, Dior na-eji akụkụ abụọ zuru oke nke ihe onwunwe, ihe dị ka mita 13, ma ọ bụ tinye ya n'echiche, zuru ezu iji kpuchie sofas abụọ.

Ngabiga nke a na-atọ ụtọ bụ n'ime obi nke New Look, ọ na-ekwu. Ihe ngosi ngosi, nke ewepụtara na ipadsinuser-enyi na enyi dị iche na usoro ụlọ akwụkwọ ochie nke ihe ndị ha na-akọwa, kwupụta okwu sitere na Dior n'onwe ya nke malitere na 1956: "Agha ahụ agwụla ... Kedu ihe ịdị arọ nke nnukwu ihe m, velvets dị arọ m na brocades dị mkpa? Mgbe obi dị nfe, ákwà nkịtị apụghị ibuda ahụ́.” Oghere ahụ tụrụ ihe fọrọ nke nta ka ọ bụrụ mita 14 n'okirikiri: nke ahụ bụ ọtụtụ aka (ma ọ bụ petites mains na parlance of couture atelier) na ọtụtụ ịkwa akwa. Onye atelier na-arụkọ ọrụ na ndị ọkachamara embode. (Ọrụ si atọ embroidery ụlọ Dior n'ọrụ n'ime afọ iri mbụ ahụ - abụọ n'ime ha bụ ogologo defunct - na-anọchi anya na show.) Plus omenala akpụkpọ ụkwụ (ụfọdụ gbaziri si Bata akpụkpọ ụkwụ Museum), ngwa, ọla na okpu. Ngosipụta a ga-egosipụta nka nka pụrụiche na nke fọrọ nke nta ka ọ furu efu nke ndị ọrụ nka bụ ndị "mepụtara rịbọn, beads, sequins na embroides nke Dior tinyere n'ime uwe ya site n'enyemaka nke ndị na-emepụta ụkpụrụ ya, ndị na-akwa akwa na ndị na-akwa akwa," Palmer na-ekwu.

Dior atelier nwere ụlọ nke ya ma ọ bụ ndị ọrụ na-adịgide adịgide nke mannequins (aka ụdị), na uwe nke ọ bụla dabara na mannequin dị iche iche na-eyi. Na mberede, ọtụtụ n'ime mannequins nwere naanị otu aha, yabụ na ha bụ n'ezie ihe atụ maka ụdị supermodel ọgbara ọhụrụ. Uwe ọ bụla dị na ihe ngosi ahụ ka eweghachitere azụ na mannequin nke yi ya na ihe ngosi mbụ.

"Dior gosipụtara anya zuru oke, ngwugwu dum," Palmer na-ekwu. Ma akụkọ banyere ihe uwe ahụ ghọrọ nke ndị nwe ya. Tupu onye nrụpụta "vintage" aghọọ ahịa na-ekpo oke ọkụ, ndị na-elekọta mmadụ na-enye ihe ndị mara mma ha n'ụlọ ngosi ihe mgbe ochie maka nchekwa na ọmụmụ ihe kwesịrị ekwesị. Ọ sịrị: “Mmiri nke dị na ya na-emechi.

Postwar Christian Dior bụ uwe siri ike nke ebe nchekwa ROM, na ihe atụ na ihe ngosi ahụ gụnyere uwe mgbụsị akwụkwọ dị egwu nke 1957 akpọrọ "Venezuela," nke bụ onyinye sitere na Toronto philanthropist Carol Rapp. Estate nke Molly Roebuck nyere uwe Dior nke Elaine Roebuck dị afọ 12 mgbe ahụ, confection silk organdy na akwa akwa, eyiri na Bat Mitzvah ya na Toronto n'oge opupu ihe ubi nke 1957. Uwe nke nwa agbọghọ ahụ na-egosi ụdị Dior nke a sụgharịrị n'ụzọ zuru ezu karịa afọ.

Ajụjụ maka Palmer bụ: "Gịnị kpatara Dior ji nwee ihe ịga nke ọma?" Ee, o nwere ndị na-etinye ego n'akpa uwe miri emi n'oge ọganihu akụ na ụba. "Ma ndị mmadụ ka ga-azụta," ka ọ na-ekwu, na nlọghachi n'ụdị ndị na-akpachi anya mgbe nnwere onwe nke ejiji oge agha dị ka nke mbụ. Ma mgbe ahụ, ejiji bụ maka mmeghachi omume. "Ndị '50s kwesịrị ime ka '60 mee," ka ọ na-ekwu.

Dior nwere "echiche siri ike," ka ọ na-ekwu, nke dabara n'ụdị ụmụ nwanyị chọrọ ile anya. "Ọ bụ karịa ogologo sket, cinched n'úkwù na gburugburu ubu." Palmer etinyela uwe mwụda nke narị afọ nke 19 n'ihe ngosi ahụ iji mee ka ụdị usoro Dior na-atụgharị, gụnyere akpụkpọ ahụ abụọ na corsetry. "Ma n'otu oge ahụ, couture atelier bụ nyocha ya na ụlọ nyocha mmepe ya," ka ọ na-ekwu, ị na-ahụkwa echiche sitere na nchịkọta mbụ na-agbasawanye site na afọ ndị sochirinụ.

Mpempe ọla pụtara ìhè agbaziri maka ihe ngosi ahụ sitere n'aka onye na-anakọta ihe ama ama na Toronto na onye na-ere ọla ejiji bụ Carol Tannenbaum. "Nke a bụ oge nchekwube, akụ na ụba na uto, na ejiji ejiji nke Dior n'oge ahụ nwere ezigbo ọmarịcha. Emere ya n'oke ntakiri site na mmata zuru oke na ihe owuwu. Iberibe nke ọ gbazinyere bụ urodi nke ihe olu ndagwurugwu nke e ji pearl mee nke nwere akwụkwọ iko awụsara awụsa.

"Nke a bụ ọla efu, ọ dịkwa ụkọ. Ọ bụ onye mmebe ọla Dior mere n'oge ahụ, Roger Scemama." Tannenbaum chọtara ya na ihe ngosi nka nka na New York ọtụtụ afọ gara aga, “Ọ dị m mma. Akwụụrụ m ya nnukwu ego. Ọ ga-abụrịrị nke m. O nwere eriri olu ogologo mara mma, ọ dịkwa ka uwe. Ọ dịghị ihe ihere banyere ya." N'ịkpọ ya "otu n'ime nnukwu iberibe m hụworo na ọrụ m, n'ime afọ 35," ọ na-ekwu na ọ naghị eyi ya kemgbe oge opupu ihe ubi gara aga na Bar Mitzvah na New York. Ọ na-ekwu, "Ụlọ ndị na-ere ahịa na-enwe ụbọchị ubi na oge a," ọnụ ahịa ugbu a "machibidoro iwu."

Ejiji bụ ihe nka na-eme ndụ, nke a chọrọ ka etinye ya na ọnọdụ mmekọrịta mmadụ na ibe ya, mmegharị ahụ na ụdị onye nwe ya, yabụ ihe ngosi staticmuseum na-abụkarị ihe ịma aka nye ndị na-ahụ maka ọrụ iweta ndụ. Nke a bụ ihe na-akpali akpali n'ihi ọnọdụ mpaghara ya: The fantasydresses yiri n'ụzọ ụfọdụ nso n'ihi na ha bụ akụkụ nke anyị gara aga, kwa. Na n'agbanyeghị na ya eke mmekọahụ-mkpegharị, ejiji scholarship onwe ya lagged n'azụ isiokwu ndị ọzọ ruo ogologo oge n'ihi na omenala ele anya, na-ekwu na onye ọrụ ibe Sarah Fee. , onye nlekọta na-elekwasị anya na akwa akwa na ejiji Eastern Hemisphere.

Ejiji na akwa ka aghọọla ebe ọmụmụ ihe na-ekpo ọkụ n'oge na-adịbeghị anya, Fee kwuru. "N'ime '60s,' 70s and 80s, textiles na-eleghara anya n'ihi mkparị nwoke. Mana n'ime '90s, ndị ọkà mmụta gbasara ụmụ nwanyị malitere ime njikọ na akwa bụ isi na njirimara, ndụ mmekọrịta na ndụ okpukpe. Ejiji laghachiri na radar, wee weghachi ya ruo n'ókè nke na anyị enweghị ike idobe ya." ROM nwere ihe dị ka 55,000 n'ime nchịkọta akwa ya na-adịgide adịgide, malite na TOA ruo ugbu a, gburugburu ụwa na omenala. The akụkọ ihe mere eme Archive nwere ihe mkpa, taa, na-ekwu Fee, n'ihi na ejiji "bụghị nanị n'ebe ọwụwa anyanwụ ruo n'ebe ọdịda anyanwụ, n'ebe ọdịda anyanwụ ruo n'ebe ọwụwa anyanwụ, ọ bụghị a n'elu-ala naanị onu. Omenala okporo ámá na-eme n'ofe oge na ohere." Ka mmasị ndị ewu ewu na ejiji na-eto, ihe ngosi ejiji aghọwokwa ndị na-atụgharị anya maka ụlọ ngosi ihe mgbe ochie gburugburu ụwa. Anna Wintour's Met Ball aghọọla akwụkwọ ịkpọ òkù pụrụ iche na ala ndị ama ama; nnukwu foto op na-emechi kalenda ejiji ma na-ebuli ego maka ụlọ ọrụ ejiji na Metropolitan Museum of Art na New York City wee malite ihe ngosi ejiji kwa afọ. Paris na-anabatakwa mmemme ncheta afọ 70 nke Dior na Musee des Arts Decoratifs. Palmer n'onwe ya bụ onye dere akwụkwọ maka Victoria & Ụlọ ihe ngosi nka Albert dị na London nke a na-akpọ Dior: A New Look, A New Enterprise 1947 -57; nke V & A emeela ọtụtụ ihe omume ejiji, gụnyere Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier na Missoni.

Ma kama katalọgụ nke ihe ngosi ọhụrụ a, Palmer ga-emepụta akwụkwọ ọzọ, na-elekwasị anya na ROM's Dior iberibe setịpụrụ ịmalite mmalite n'afọ ọzọ. Ejiri foto onye ọrụ Dior onye na-ese foto Laziz Hamani gosipụtara, a ga-akpọ ya Christian Dior: History & Modernity,1947-1957, (ROM Press 2018) Maka ozi gbasara usoro nkuzi na mmemme ndị ọzọ metụtara ihe ngosi, gaa na:

rom.on.ca/en/dior