Christian Dior's Mushure mehondo Golden Age Inouya kuROM

Asi zvakaratidzawo nezve-chiso chevakadzi, avo vaisiya mabasa avo ehondo kuvarume. Izvi zvaireva kutengeserana mumafekitori avo ekuvhara machira ekukanda kumashure 19th century corsetry uye dzimwe mbatya dzakaomesesa kuti vadzokere kuzochengeta imba. Zvipfeko zveNew Look zvaida zvakawanda zvemupfeki. Zvairema, zvisingakwanisi kufamba uye kufema uye zvaida mubatsiri kana vaviri kuti vasungirwe.

Kucherekedza makore makumi manomwe ekuvambwa kweImba, chiratidziro, chakanzi Christian Dior, chinovhurwa paROM munaNov. 25 uye inoenderera kusvika Kurume 18. Inotenderera zera regoridhe reiyo iconic mugadziri, makore gumi ari kubva 1947 kusvika 1957. Chiratidziro ichi chinotsigirwa naHolt Renfrew - dhipatimendi repamusoro rakave rekutanga kuunza basa reFrench couturier kuCanada.

Kutsvaga kuti zvishamiso zvakaitwa nemaoko zvevaFrench couture ateliers zvakakanganisa sei kutengeserana kweatlantic uye hupenyu hwevakadzi imo muToronto kwave kuri kutarisa kwevakawanda veROM curator Dr. Alexandra Palmer muviri wekufunda.

Palmer, anove mukuru curator, Nora E. Vaughan fashion costume curatorship, yakasarudza zvinhu zvinopfuura zana, zvinosanganisira zvipfeko makumi matatu nezvisere kubva kuROM yekusingaperi fashoni uye muunganidzwa wemicheka unoratidza kutaridzika kwezuva, kupfeka kwemanheru uye majahwe ebhora ezviitiko zvikuru. Kune zvakare zvakakweretwa zvishongedzo uye mienzaniso yeakaomeswa ebroideries anoshandiswa neImba yeDior panguva iyoyo.

Mugadziriro yegadziriro yezviratidziro, timu yemuseum yakadzosera kumashure-injiniya maitiro akaomarara, akayera uye akayera uye akaita basa rekuferefeta pane izvo zvezvimedu chaizvo, ndiko kuvhenekera kwavaiita hukama hwavo nefashoni yekare. Mazhinji emarokwe aya akapihwa neveToronto neMontreal socialites, vaipfeka zvidimbu izvi muno muCanada.

Vakaonawo kuti zvidimbu izvi zvairema sei kupfeka. Aya mapfekero anoshandiswa, "huwandu hunofema hwezvinhu," Palmer anodaro. Kugadzira siketi ye1948 "Isabelle" yejasi rebhora iro rinonyanya kuratidzwa pachiratidziro, Dior akashandisa madenderedzwa maviri akazara emidziyo, mamwe 13 metres emucheka wejira, kana kuti kuisa muchimiro, akakwana kuvhara masofa akati wandei.

Uku kuwedzeredza kwemufaro kwaive pamoyo weNew Look, anodaro. Zvinyorwa zvechiratidziro, zvakaratidzwa paipadsinuser-hushamwari mutsauko kune chekare-chikoro chimiro chezvinhu zvavanotsanangura, taura quote kubva kuna Dior pachake achifambidzana na1956: "Hondo yakapera ... Huremu hwezvinhu zvangu zvemhando yepamusoro, mavheiri angu anorema uye mabhuroka zvakakosherei? Apo mwoyo yakanga yakareruka, machirawo zvawo aisagona kuyera muviri pasi.” Mupendero wacho waiyera zvinoda kusvika mamita 14 mudenderedzwa: ndiwo mawoko akawanda (kana kuti petites mains in the parlance of the couture atelier) uye kusona kwakawanda. The atelier aishanda nevanomenda nyanzvi. (Basa kubva kudzimba nhatu dzakashongedzwa naDior dzakashandiswa mumakore gumi ekutanga - maviri acho asingachashandi - anomiririrwa mushoo.) Uyezve shangu dzetsika (dzimwe dzakakweretwa kubva kuBata Shoe Museum), zvishandiso, zvishongo neheti. Chiratidziro chicharatidza hunyanzvi hunoshamisa uye hwakapotsa hwarasika hwemhizha "vakagadzira ribhoni, mabhero, sequins uye micheka yakasanganiswa naDior mumadhirezi ake nerubatsiro rwevanofungidzira vagadziri vepatani, vagadziri uye vanosona," Palmer anodaro.

Iyo Dior atelier yaive neyayo kabhini kana yekusingaperi vashandi vemannequins (aka mamodheru), uye dhirezi rega rega raive rakakwana uye raipfekwa neimwe mannequin. Sezvineiwo, mazhinji emannequins aienda nezita rimwe chete, saka aive chaiwo iwo prototype yemazuva ano supermodels. Chipfeko chega chega muchiratidziro chakadzoserwa kumashure kune mannequin akaripfeka mukuratidzira kwekutanga.

"Dior yakaratidza kutaridzika kwakazara, iyo pasuru yese," Palmer anodaro. Asi nyaya yekuti madhirezi akazoita sei ndeyevaridzi. Pamberi pemugadziri "mazambiringa" akave musika wakanyanya kupisa kudaro, vezvemagariro vaiwanzopa yavo yakanaka kumamyuziyamu kuti ichengetedzwe uye kudzidza. “Hwindi riri pairi riri kuvhara,” anodaro.

Postwar Christian Dior sutu yakasimba yeROM archives, uye mienzaniso mushow inosanganisira inoshamisa yekudonha mwaka 1957 cocktail dress inonzi "Venezuela," chaive chipo kubva kuToronto philanthropist Carol Rapp. Uye iyo Estate yaMolly Roebuck yakapa dhirezi reDior raElaine Roebuck aive nemakore gumi nemaviri, musanganiswa wesilika nedonje, waipfekwa Bat Mitzvah wake muToronto muchirimo cha1957. Chipfeko chemusikana wechidiki chinoratidza Dior chimiro chakashandurwa mune mamwe mazera anoenderana nezera.

Mubvunzo wePalmer ndewekuti: "Sei Dior yakabudirira?" Ehe, aive neakadzika homwe vatengesi munguva yehupfumi. "Asi vanhu vachiri kufanira kutenga mukati," anodaro, uye kudzokera kune mamwe maitiro ekumanikidza mushure mekusununguka kwekupfeka munguva yehondo kunoratidzika kunge kunopesana. Asi zvino, fashoni ndeyekuita. "Ma50s aifanira kuitika kuti ma'60 aitike," anodaro.

Dior aive ne "pfungwa yakasimba kwazvo," anodaro, yaienderana nematarisiro evakadzi. "Inopfuura siketi refu, chiuno chakasungirirwa uye mapendekete akatenderedzwa." Palmer yakasanganisira jasi rezana ramakore rechi 19 muchiratidziro kuvhenekera rudzi rwemaitiro Dior aimutsiridza, anosanganisira maviri bodices uye corsetry. "Asi panguva imwe cheteyo, couture atelier yaive yake yekutsvagisa nekuvandudza lab," anodaro, uye iwe unoona mazano kubva kuunganidzwa kwekutanga achiwedzera kuburikidza nemakore anotevera.

Chishongo chakasarudzika chakakweretwa chekuratidzira chinobva kune ane mukurumbira muunganidzi weToronto uye mutengesi wezvishongo zvehembe Carol Tannenbaum. "Iyi yaive nguva yekutarisira, hupfumi uye kukura, uye zvishongo zveDior panguva iyoyo zvaive nehukuru chaihwo. Yakagadzirwa muhuwandu hudiki kwazvo nekuziva kukuru kune zvakadzama uye kuvaka. Chidimbu chaakweretesa ihapa remupata wenecklace rakagadzirwa nemaparera akadirwa mashizha egirazi.

“Izvi zvishongo zvekufungidzira, uye hazviwanzo kuwanikwa. Yakagadzirwa naDior's jewelry designer panguva iyoyo, Roger Scemama." Tannenbaum akaiwana paArmory art show muNew York makore akawanda apfuura, "Zvakangondishamisa. Ndakabhadhara mari yakawanda. Yaifanira kuva yangu. Iine mutsipa wakaisvonaka wakareba, uye inorara senguo. Hapana chinotya pazviri." Achizvidaidza kuti "chimwe chezvimedu zvikuru zvandakaona mubasa rangu, mumakore makumi matatu nemashanu," anoti anga asati aipfeka kubva muchirimo chapfuura kuenda kuBar Mitzvah muNew York. "Dzimba dzekutengesa dziri kuita zuva remunda nenguva iyi," uye mitengo ikozvino "yave kurambidza," anodaro.

Fashoni inyanzvi yehupenyu, inofanirwa kuisirwa nemagariro, kufamba uye hunhu hwemunhu akaipfeka, saka staticmuseum inoratidza zvinonetsa kuti vachengeti vape hupenyu. Iri rinomanikidza nekuda kwenzvimbo yaro: Madhirezi ekufungidzira anoratidzika kunge ari pedyo nekuti ari chikamu chekare, zvakare. Uye zvisinei nekukwezva kwayo kwepabonde, ruzivo rwemafashoni pacharwo rwakasarira shure kwezvimwe zvidzidzo kwenguva refu nekuda kwekurerekera kwechinyakare, anodaro mushandi wake Sarah Fee. , muchengeti anotarisa kuEastern Hemisphere Textiles neFashoni.

Mafashoni nemachira zvakangobva zvangova nzvimbo dzinopisa dzekufunda, Fee anodaro. "Mumakore ekuma'60, '70s uye'80s, micheka yakange isingatariswe nekuda kwerusaruro rwevarume. Asi mu'90s, feminist anthropologists yakatanga kuita hukama kuti jira ndiro pakati pekuzivikanwa, hupenyu hwemagariro uye hupenyu hwechitendero. Fashoni yadzoka paradar, uye yaidzosa zvekuti hatichakwanisi kuenderera mberi." ROM ine zvinhu zvinosvika 55,000 muunganidzwa wayo wemicheka usingaperi, kubvira BCE kusvika parizvino, pasi rose uye netsika dzakasiyana. Zvinyorwa zvezvakaitika kare zvine zvakawanda zvakakosha, nhasi, anodaro Fee, nokuti fashoni "haisi chete kumabvazuva kusvika kumadokero, kumadokero kusvika kumabvazuva, haisi yepamusoro-pasi chete chiitiko. Tsika dzemumigwagwa dziri kuitika mukufamba kwenguva nenzvimbo." Sezvo kufarira fashoni kuri kukura, zviratidziro zvefashoni zvavewo nzira dzakavimbika dzekuchinjisa mamiziyamu pasi rese. Anna Wintour's Met Bhora rave iro rakanyanya kukoka mune mukurumbira-nyika; iyo hofori photo op inosimbisa karenda yefashoni uye inokwidza mari yeCostume Institute paMetropolitan Museum of Art muNew York City uye inotanga kuratidzwa kwefashoni kwegore negore. Paris zvakare iri kuita mhemberero yekusvitsa makore makumi manomwe yeDior kuMusee des Arts Decoratifs. Palmer pachake ndiye munyori webhuku reVictoria & Albert museum muLondon inonzi Dior: A New Look, A New Enterprise 1947 -57; iye V & A akabata zviitiko zvakawanda zvefashoni zvekutengesa, kusanganisira Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier naMissoni.

Uye pane kabhuku kechiratidziro chitsva ichi, Palmer achange achigadzira rimwe bhuku, achitarisa pane ROM's Dior zvidimbu zvakagadzirirwa kutanga kutanga kwegore rinouya. Inoratidzwa nemifananidzo yakapfurwa nemukuru Dior mutori wemifananidzo Laziz Hamani, ichadaidzwa kuti Christian Dior: Nhoroondo. & Mazuva ano, 1947-1957, (ROM Press 2018) Kuti uwane ruzivo rwehurukuro dzakatevedzana uye zvimwe zvirongwa zvine chekuita neshow, enda ku.:

rom.on.ca/en/dior