I-Christian Dior's Post War Golden Age iza kwiROM

Kodwa iphinde yaphawula ubuso obumalunga nabasetyhini, ababenikezela imisebenzi yabo yexesha lemfazwe emadodeni. Oko kwakuthetha ukurhweba ngeengubo zabo zomzi-mveliso ukuze bafumane i-corsetry yenkulungwane ye-19 kunye nempahla enzima kakhulu ukubuyela ekugcinweni kwendlu. Impahla yokuJonga eNtsha ibifuna kakhulu umntu ozinxibileyo. Zazinzima, zinqanda intshukumo kunye nokuphefumla kwaye zifuna umncedisi okanye ababini ukubotshwa.

Ukumakisha isikhumbuzo seminyaka engama-70 yokusekwa kweNdlu, umboniso, onesihloko esithi Christian Dior, uvulwa kwiROM ngoNov. 25 kwaye iqhuba ukuya kuthi ga nge-18 kaMatshi. Idibanisa iminyaka yegolide yomyili we-iconic, ishumi leminyaka ukusuka kwi-1947 ukuya kwi-1957. Lo mboniso uxhaswe nguHolt Renfrew - ivenkile yesebe yodidi yaba yeyokuqala ukuzisa umsebenzi we-French couturier eCanada.

Ukulandela indlela ezi zinto zimangalisayo zenziwe ngesandla ze-French couture ateliers zichaphazele urhwebo oluwela iAtlantiki kunye nobomi babasetyhini kanye apha eToronto ibiyeyona nto iphambili kugcino lweROM uGqr. Umzimba ka-Alexandra Palmer wokufunda.

UPalmer, ongumlondolozi omkhulu, uNora E. I-Vaughan fashion costume curatorship, ikhethe izinto ezingaphezu kwe-100, ezibandakanya iimpahla ezingama-38 ezivela kwifashoni esisigxina yeROM kunye nengqokelela yelaphu ebonisa inkangeleko yosuku, ukunxiba kwangokuhlwa kunye neegawuni zebhola kwimisitho emikhulu. Kukwakho nezincedisi ezibolekiweyo kunye nemizekelo yemihombiso entsonkothileyo esetyenziswa yiNdlu yeDior ngelo xesha.

Kwinkqubo yokulungiselela umboniso, iqela lemyuziyam liye labuyisela umva iipateni ezintsonkothileyo ngendlela engakholelekiyo, lalinganisela laza lenza umsebenzi wabacuphi kwiinkcukacha zawona maqhekeza, leyo yindlela abakhanyisa ngayo amakhonkco abo kwifashoni yembali. Uninzi lwezi lokhwe zanikezelwa yi-Toronto kunye ne-Montreal socialites, ababenxibe ezi ziqwenga apha eCanada.

Baye bafumanisa ukuba ezi ziqwenga zinzima kangakanani na. Ezi lokhwe zisetyenzisiweyo, "umthamo omangalisayo wezinto," utshilo uPalmer. Ukwenza i-skirt ye-1948 "Isabelle" i-ballgown esemthethweni ebalaseleyo yomboniso, i-Dior yasebenzisa izangqa ezimbini ezipheleleyo zezinto eziphathekayo, i-13 yemitha yelaphu yelaphu, okanye ukuyibeka ngendlela, eyaneleyo ukugubungela i-sofa ezimbalwa.

Obu bugxwayiba bubolile babusentliziyweni yeNkalo eNtsha, utshilo. Amanqaku omboniso, aboniswe kwi-ipadsinuser-friendly ngokuchasene nenkqubo yesikolo esidala yezinto abazichazayo, bacaphula isicatshulwa esivela kuDior ngokwakhe owaqala ngo-1956: "Imfazwe yayiphelile ... Buthini ubunzima bezinto zam zokuhombisa, iivelvethi zam ezinzima kunye neebrocades? Xa intliziyo yayilula, amalaphu nje ayengenakuwunciphisa umzimba.” Umqukumbelo wawumalunga neemitha ezili-14 ukusa kwisangqa: zizandla ezininzi ezo (okanye iintsinjana ezingundoqo kwintetho ye-couture atelier) kunye nokuthunga okuninzi. I-atelier yayisebenza nabathungi abanobuchule. (Umsebenzi ovela kwizindlu ezihonjisiweyo ezithathu eziqeshwe yiDior kule minyaka ilishumi yokuqala - ezimbini kuzo zide zaphelelwa lixesha - zimelwe kumboniso.) Izihlangu ezikhethekileyo (ezinye zibolekwe kwiMyuziyam yeBata Shoe), izincedisi, izacholo neminqwazi. Lo mboniso uza kuqaqambisa ubugcisa obumangalisayo nobuphantse baphulukana nobuchwephesha “abavelise iiribhoni ezingaqhelekanga, amaso, i-sequins kunye nemihombiso edityaniswe nguDior kwiilokhwe zakhe ngoncedo lwabenzi bakhe bokucinga, abathungi kunye nabathungi,” utshilo uPalmer.

I-Dior atelier yayinekhabhinethi yayo okanye abasebenzi abasisigxina be-mannequins (iimodeli ze-a.k.a), kwaye ilokhwe nganye yayifanelekile kwaye inxitywe yi-mannequin ethile. Ngokuzenzekelayo, uninzi lweemannequins zahamba ngegama elinye kuphela, ngoko ngokwenene zaziyiprototype yeesupermodels zanamhlanje. Isinxibo ngasinye kumboniso silandelelwe emva kwe-mannequin eyayinxibe kumboniso wokuqala.

"UDior ubonise ukujonga okupheleleyo, yonke ipakethe," utshilo uPalmer. Kodwa ibali lokuba iilokhwe zaba zezabanini. Ngaphambi kokuba umyili "ivintage" ibe yimarike eshushu kakhulu, abantu bezentlalo babedla ngokunikela ngezinto zabo ezintle kwiimyuziyam ukuze zigcinwe kwaye zifunde. “Ifestile ekulo iyavalwa,” utshilo.

I-postwar Christian Dior yisuti eyomeleleyo yee-archives zeROM, kwaye imizekelo kumboniso ibandakanya ixesha elimangalisayo lekwindla 1957 ilokhwe ye-cocktail ebizwa ngokuba yi-"Venezuela," eyayisisipho esivela kwi-Toronto philanthropist uCarol Rapp. Kwaye i-Estate ka-Molly Roebuck yanikela ngelokhwe ye-Dior ka-Elaine Roebuck owayeneminyaka eli-12 ngoko, i-silika ye-organy ehlanganiswe ne-embroidery yomqhaphu, eyayinxitywa ku-Bat Mitzvah wakhe e-Toronto ngentwasahlobo ka-1957. Ingubo yentombazana encinci ibonisa indlela yeDior eguqulelwe kwiinkcukacha ezifanelekileyo yobudala.

Umbuzo wePalmer uthi: "Kutheni iDior iphumelele?" Ewe, wayenabatyalo-mali bepokotho enzulu ngexesha lokukhula kwezoqoqosho. “Kodwa abantu bekusafuneka bathenge,” utshilo, kwaye ukubuyela kwizitayile ezinyanzelisayo emva kwenkululeko yokunxiba ngexesha lemfazwe kubonakala ngathi kuchasene. Kodwa ke, ifashoni imalunga nokusabela. "Iminyaka yama-50 kwafuneka yenzeke ukuze i-'60 yenzeke," utsho.

UDior "wayenombono onamandla kakhulu," utsho, owawuhambelana nendlela abafazi ababefuna ukubonakala ngayo. "Ingaphezulu kwesiketi eside, esinqeni esijijekileyo kunye namagxa angqukuva." I-Palmer ifake isambatho senkulungwane ye-19 kumboniso wokukhanyisa uhlobo lweendlela uDior awayezivuselela ngayo, kuquka i-bodices ephindwe kabini kunye ne-corsetry. “Kodwa kwangaxeshanye, i-couture atelier yayiyilebhu yakhe yophando kunye nophuhliso,” utshilo, kwaye ubona imibono evela kwingqokelela yangaphambili isanda kwiminyaka elandelayo.

Isiqwenga sezacholo esimiyo esibolekwe kulo mboniso sivela kumqokeleli owaziwayo waseToronto kunye nomthengisi wezacholo zesinxibo uCarol Tannenbaum. “Eli yayilixesha lokuba nethemba, ubutyebi kunye nokukhula, kwaye ubucwebe bempahla kaDior ngelo xesha babunobungangamsha bokwenyani. Yenziwe ngobungakanani obuncinci kakhulu ngokwazisa okukhulu kwiinkcukacha kunye nokwakhiwa. Iqhekeza alibolekileyo lily ye-necklace yentlambo eyenziwe ngeeperile kunye namagqabi eglasi agalelwe.

“Obu bubucwebe bentelekelelo, kwaye bunqabile kakhulu. Yenziwe ngumyili wezacholo zikaDior ngelo xesha, uRoger Scemama." UTannenbaum wayifumana kumboniso wobugcisa weArmory eNew York kwiminyaka emininzi eyadlulayo, “Yandothusa nje. Ndayihlawula intywenka yemali ngayo. Kwakufuneka ibe yeyam. Inentamo entle ende, kwaye ilala okwempahla. Akukho nto yoyikisa ngayo." Eyibiza ngokuba "yenye yezona zinto zinkulu endizibonileyo kumsebenzi wam, kwiminyaka engama-35," uthi akazange ayinxibe ukusukela ngentwasahlobo edlulileyo ukuya kwiBar Mitzvah eNew York. "Izindlu zefandesi zinemini yentsimi ngeli xesha," kwaye amaxabiso ngoku "ayanqatshelwe," utshilo.

Ifashoni bubugcisa obuphilayo, obucetywe ukuba bufakwe kwimeko yentlalo, intshukumo kunye nobuntu bomntu onxibileyo, ngoko ke imiboniso yemyuziyam engatshintshiyo isoloko ingumngeni kubagcini ukuba baphile. Le iyanyanzelisa ngenxa yomxholo wayo wendawo: Iilokhwe zefantasy zibonakala zisondele ngandlel 'ithile kuba ziyinxalenye yexesha lethu elidlulileyo, nazo.Kwaye ngaphandle kwesibheno sayo sendalo sezesondo, ubufundi befashoni bushiyeke ngasemva kwezinye izifundo ixesha elide ngenxa yokucalula ngokwesiko, utsho umlingane uSarah Fee. , umlondolozi ogxile kwi-Eastern Hemisphere Textiles and Fashion.

Ifashoni kunye namalaphu asandula ukuba ziindawo ezishushu zokufunda, utshilo uFee. “Kwiminyaka yoo-’60s,’ 70s kunye nee’80s, amalaphu ayengahoywa ngenxa yokuthand’ icala kwamadoda. Kodwa ngeminyaka yee-'90s, ii-anthropologists zabasetyhini zaqala ukwenza unxibelelwano lokuba ilaphu libe sembindini wesazisi, ubomi bentlalo kunye nobomi benkolo. Ifashoni ibuyele kwiradar, kwaye iyibuyisele kumlinganiselo wokuba singakwazi ukuqhubeka.” I-ROM inezinto ezingama-55,000 kwingqokelela yayo yelaphu esisigxina, ukusukela kwi-BCE ukuza kuthi ga ngoku, kwihlabathi liphela nakwiinkcubeko. Ugcino lwembali lunokubaluleka ngakumbi, namhlanje, utsho uFee, kuba ifashoni "ayisiyiyo impuma ukuya entshona, entshona ukuya empuma, ayisiyonto iphezulu ezantsi kuphela. Inkcubeko yesitalato yenzeka ngexesha kunye nendawo." Njengoko umdla odumileyo kwifashoni ukhula, imiboniso yefashoni iye yajika yaba ziimyuziyamu ezithembekileyo kwihlabathi jikelele. I-Met Ball ka-Anna Wintour ibe sesona simemo sikhethekileyo kumhlaba wosaziwayo; Isigebenga sefoto op sixhasa ikhalenda yefashoni kwaye sinyusa imali yeCostume Institute kwiMetropolitan Museum of Art kwisiXeko saseNew York kwaye isungula umboniso wefashoni wonyaka. IParis ngoku ibambe umbhiyozo weminyaka engama-70 weDior kwiMusee des Arts Decoratifs. UPalmer ngokwakhe ungumbhali wencwadi yeVictoria & Imyuziyam yaseAlbert eLondon ebizwa ngokuba yiDior: A New Look, A New Enterprise 1947 -57; iV & U-A ubambe iminyhadala emininzi yefashoni, kuquka uAlexander McQueen, uJean Paul Gaultier kunye noMissoni.

Kwaye kunokuba ikhathalogu yalo mboniso mtsha, i-Palmer iya kuvelisa enye incwadi, igxile kwi-ROM's Dior piece ebekwe ukuqaliswa ekuqaleni konyaka ozayo. Izotywe ngeefoto ezithathwe ngumfoti osemthethweni weDior uLaziz Hamani, iya kubizwa ngokuba yiChristian Dior: Imbali. & Modernity, 1947-1957, (ROM Cinezela 2018) Ngolwazi ngothotho lweentetho kunye nezinye iinkqubo ezinxulumene nomboniso, yiya ku.:

rom.on.ca/en/dior