Christian Dior's Postwar Golden Age los txog ROM

Tab sis nws kuj tau cim txog lub ntsej muag rau cov poj niam, uas tau tso lawv txoj haujlwm ua tsov rog rov qab rau txiv neej. Qhov ntawd txhais tau tias kev lag luam hauv lawv lub Hoobkas coveralls rau kev thim rov qab 19th caug xyoo corsetry thiab qee cov khaub ncaws cumbersome heev rov qab mus rau tsev. New Look outfits xav tau ntau ntawm cov neeg hnav. Lawv hnyav, txwv tsis pub txav mus los thiab ua tsis taus pa thiab yuav tsum muaj tus pab lossis ob leeg kom tau txais txoj hlua khi.

Kos lub 70th hnub tseem ceeb ntawm kev tsim lub Tsev, ib qho khoom pov thawj, hu ua Christian Dior, qhib ntawm ROM thaum Lub Kaum Ib Hlis. 25 thiab khiav mus txog Lub Peb Hlis 18. Nws nthuav tawm lub hnub nyoog kub ntawm tus tsim qauv iconic, lub xyoo caum khiav los ntawm 1947 txog 1957. Cov khoom pov thawj yog txhawb nqa los ntawm Holt Renfrew - lub khw muag khoom kim heev yog thawj tus coj Fabkis couturier txoj haujlwm rau Canada.

Tracing yuav ua li cas cov handcrafted xav tsis thoob ntawm Fabkis couture ateliers cuam tshuam kev lag luam transatlantic thiab poj niam lub neej nyob rau hauv Toronto tau ua kom pom tseeb ntawm ntau ROM curator Dr. Alexandra Palmer lub cev ntawm scholarship.

Palmer, uas yog tus saib xyuas laus, Nora E. Vaughan zam khaub ncaws curatorship, tau xaiv ntau dua 100 yam khoom, suav nrog 38 khaub ncaws los ntawm ROM lub zam zam thiab textile collection showcasing hnub zoo, yav tsaus ntuj hnav thiab pob gowns rau lub sijhawm loj. Kuj tseem muaj cov khoom siv qiv nyiaj thiab cov piv txwv ntawm cov paj ntaub intricate siv los ntawm Lub Tsev ntawm Dior nyob rau lub sijhawm ntawd.

Nyob rau hauv cov txheej txheem kev npaj ua pov thawj, pawg tsev cia puav pheej rov qab-engineered cov qauv tsis txaus ntseeg, ntsuas thiab ntsuas thiab ua haujlwm tshawb nrhiav txog cov ntsiab lus ntawm cov khoom tiag tiag, uas yog qhov lawv pom lawv cov kev txuas mus rau keeb kwm zam. Ntau cov khaub ncaws no tau pub dawb los ntawm Toronto thiab Montreal socialites, uas hnav cov khoom no hauv Canada.

Lawv kuj tau pom tias cov khoom no yuav tsum hnav li cas. Cov khaub ncaws no siv, "ib qho khoom siv ua pa," Palmer hais. Txhawm rau ua daim tiab rau xyoo 1948 "Isabelle" cov khaub ncaws zoo nkauj uas yog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm cov khoom pov thawj, Dior siv ob lub voj voog ua tiav, qee qhov 13 metres ntawm ntaub, los yog muab tso rau hauv kev xav, txaus los npog ob peb lub rooj zaum.

Qhov kev lom zem zoo nkauj no yog nyob hauv plawv ntawm Kev Saib Xyuas Tshiab, nws hais. Cov yeeb yam sau ntawv, nthuav tawm ntawm ipadsinuser-tus phooj ywg zoo sib piv rau lub tsev kawm ntawv qub ntawm cov khoom uas lawv piav qhia, hais txog ib qho lus hais los ntawm Dior nws tus kheej yos mus rau xyoo 1956: "Kev tsov rog dhau ... Dab tsi yog qhov hnyav ntawm kuv cov ntaub ntawv sumptuous, kuv hnyav velvets thiab brocades tseem ceeb? Thaum lub siab lub teeb, tsuas yog cov ntaub tsis tuaj yeem hnyav lub cev." Lub hem ntsuas ze li 14 meters nyob rau hauv ib ncig: uas yog ntau txhais tes (los yog petites mains nyob rau hauv lub parlance ntawm lub couture atelier) thiab xaws ntau. Lub atelier ua haujlwm nrog tus tswv embroiderers. (Kev ua hauj lwm los ntawm peb lub tsev paj ntaub Dior ua hauj lwm nyob rau hauv thawj xyoo caum - ob ntawm uas yog ntev defunct - yog sawv cev nyob rau hauv cov yeeb yam.) Ntxiv rau cov khau kev cai (qee qhov qiv los ntawm Bata Khau Tsev khaws puav pheej), accessories, hniav nyiaj hniav kub thiab kaus mom. Cov khoom pov thawj yuav qhia txog qhov txawv tshaj plaw thiab yuav luag ploj ntawm cov kws ua txuj ci uas "tsim ribbons, hlaws, sequins thiab embroideries uas Dior koom nrog rau hauv nws cov khaub ncaws nrog kev pab los ntawm nws cov tswv yim qauv tsim, tailors thiab seamstresses," Palmer hais.

Lub Dior atelier muaj nws lub cabine lossis cov neeg ua haujlwm ruaj khov ntawm mannequins (aka qauv), thiab txhua qhov hnav ris tsho tau haum rau thiab hnav los ntawm ib qho mannequin. Incidentally, feem ntau ntawm cov mannequins mus los ntawm ib lub npe nkaus xwb, yog li lawv tau ua tus qauv rau niaj hnub supermodels. Txhua qhov hnav ris tsho hauv qhov khoom pov thawj tau taug qab mus rau tus mannequin uas hnav nws hauv qhov yeeb yam qub.

Palmer hais tias "Dior tau pom qhov ua tiav, tag nrho cov pob," Palmer hais. Tab sis zaj dab neeg ntawm dab tsi dresses tau los ua belongs rau cov tswv. Ua ntej tus tsim qauv "vintage" tau dhau los ua kev lag luam overheated, socialites siv los pub lawv cov khoom zoo rau cov tsev khaws puav pheej kom khaws cia thiab kawm kom zoo. "Lub qhov rais ntawm qhov ntawd kaw," nws hais.

Postwar Christian Dior yog ib qho khoom plig muaj zog ntawm ROM archives, thiab cov piv txwv hauv cov yeeb yam suav nrog lub caij nplooj zeeg zoo nkauj xyoo 1957 cocktail hnav hu ua "Venezuela," uas yog khoom plig los ntawm Toronto philanthropist Carol Rapp. Thiab lub vaj tsev ntawm Molly Roebuck pub Dior hnav khaub ncaws ntawm 12-xyoo-laus Elaine Roebuck, silk organdy confection nrog paj ntaub paj ntaub, hnav rau nws Bat Mitzvah hauv Toronto thaum lub caij nplooj ntoos hlav xyoo 1957. Tus ntxhais hluas hnav khaub ncaws qhia txog Dior style txhais nyob rau hauv ntau lub hnub nyoog tsim nyog nthuav dav.

Lo lus nug rau Palmer yog: "Vim li cas Dior tau ua tiav?" Yog, nws muaj cov tub ua lag luam sib sib zog nqus hauv lub sijhawm ntawm kev lag luam boom. "Tab sis tib neeg tseem yuav tsum tau yuav hauv," nws hais tias, thiab rov qab mus rau cov qauv nruj dua tom qab kev ywj pheej ntawm kev hnav khaub ncaws ua tsov rog zoo li thaum xub thawj counterintuitive. Tab sis tom qab ntawd, zam yog hais txog cov tshuaj tiv thaiv. "Lub '50s yuav tsum tshwm sim rau '60 tshwm sim," nws hais.

Dior muaj "lub tswv yim muaj zog heev," nws hais tias, uas cuam tshuam nrog cov poj niam xav saib. "Nws yog ntau tshaj li tiab ntev, cinched duav thiab lub xub pwg nyom." Palmer tau suav nrog lub tsho tshaj sab hauv xyoo pua 19th hauv qhov kev nthuav qhia los teeb pom kev zoo li Dior tau rov kho dua, suav nrog ob lub cev thiab corsetry. "Tab sis tib lub sijhawm, couture atelier yog nws qhov kev tshawb fawb thiab kev loj hlob lab," nws hais tias, thiab koj pom cov tswv yim los ntawm kev sau ua ntej nthuav dav mus rau xyoo tom ntej.

Ib qho khoom plig zoo tshaj plaws qiv rau qhov khoom pov thawj yog los ntawm tus neeg sau npe nrov Toronto thiab tus muag khoom muag khoom kim heev Carol Tannenbaum. "Lub sijhawm no yog lub sijhawm ntawm kev cia siab, kev muaj nyiaj txiag thiab kev loj hlob, thiab cov khaub ncaws hnav khaub ncaws ntawm Dior nyob rau lub sijhawm ntawd muaj qhov muaj txiaj ntsig tiag tiag. Nws tau ua los ntawm cov khoom me me nrog kev paub zoo rau kev nthuav dav thiab kev tsim kho. Cov khoom uas nws tau qiv yog ib lub paj ntawm lub hav saw caj dab ua los ntawm pearls nrog nchuav iav nplooj.

"Qhov no yog fantasy hniav nyiaj hniav kub, thiab nws yog heev tsawg. Nws tau tsim los ntawm Dior tus tsim cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub thaum lub sijhawm, Roger Scemama." Tannenbaum pom nws ntawm Armory art show in New York ntau xyoo dhau los, "Nws tsuas yog wowed kuv. Kuv them ib tug hmoov zoo rau nws. Nws yuav tsum yog kuv li. Nws muaj lub caj dab ntev zoo nkauj, thiab nws nteg zoo li lub ris tsho. Tsis muaj dab tsi ntshai txog nws." Hu nws "ib qho ntawm cov khoom zoo uas kuv tau pom hauv kuv txoj haujlwm, hauv 35 xyoo," nws hais tias nws tsis tau hnav nws txij thaum lub caij nplooj ntoo hlav dhau los mus rau Bar Mitzvah hauv New York. Nws hais tias "Lub tsev muag khoom tau muaj hnub ua haujlwm nrog lub sijhawm no," thiab cov nqi tam sim no yog "txhim kho," nws hais.

Zam yog ib qho kev kos duab animate, txhais tau tias yuav tsum tau nkag mus rau hauv kev sib raug zoo, kev txav mus los thiab tus cwj pwm ntawm tus neeg hnav, yog li staticmuseum qhia yog ib qho kev sib tw rau curators coj mus rau lub neej. Qhov no yog qhov yuam kev vim nws cov ntsiab lus hauv zos: Cov fantasydresses zoo li ze dua vim tias lawv yog ib feem ntawm peb yav dhau los, thiab.Thiab txawm tias nws qhov kev sib deev zoo nkauj, kev zam nyiaj pub dawb rau nws tus kheej tom qab lwm yam kev kawm rau lub sijhawm ntev vim yog kev tsis ncaj ncees, hais tias cov npoj yaig Sarah Fee , tus curator tsom rau Eastern Hemisphere Textiles thiab Zam.

Zam thiab textiles tsuas yog nyuam qhuav dhau los ua qhov kub ntawm kev kawm, Tus Nqi hais. "Nyob rau hauv lub 60s, '70s thiab 80s, textiles tau tsis saib xyuas vim hais tias ntawm txiv neej tsis ncaj ncees lawm. Tab sis nyob rau hauv lub 90s, feminist anthropologists pib ua kev sib txuas uas cov ntaub yog lub hauv paus rau tus kheej, kev sib raug zoo lub neej thiab kev cai dab qhuas lub neej. Zam tau rov qab los rau ntawm radar, thiab tau coj nws rov qab mus rau qhov uas peb tuaj yeem ua tsis tau. " ROM muaj qee yam 55,000 yam khoom hauv nws cov ntaub ntawv khaws cia ruaj khov, txij li BCE mus rau tam sim no, thoob plaws ntiaj teb thiab thoob plaws kab lis kev cai. Cov ntaub ntawv keeb kwm yav dhau los muaj qhov cuam tshuam ntau dua, niaj hnub no, hais tias Fee, vim tias zam "tsis yog sab hnub tuaj mus rau sab hnub poob, sab hnub poob mus rau sab hnub tuaj, nws tsis yog qhov tshwm sim saum toj kawg nkaus nkaus xwb. Txoj kev kab lis kev cai tau tshwm sim thoob plaws lub sijhawm thiab qhov chaw. " Raws li kev txaus siab ntawm kev zam loj hlob tuaj, cov khoom pov thawj kev ua yeeb yam kuj tau dhau los ua kev ntseeg siab rau cov tsev khaws puav pheej thoob ntiaj teb. Anna Wintour's Met Ball tau dhau los ua tus tshaj tawm tshwj xeeb tshaj plaws hauv kev ua koob tsheej-hauv av; daim duab loj loj op anchors lub caij nyoog zam thiab nce nyiaj rau Costume Institute ntawm Metropolitan Tsev khaws puav pheej ntawm Art hauv New York City thiab nthuav tawm ib qho kev nthuav qhia txhua xyoo. Paris tseem tab tom tuav lub koob tsheej 70 xyoo ntawm Dior ntawm Musee des Arts Decoratifs. Palmer nws tus kheej yog tus sau phau ntawv rau Victoria & Albert lub tsev khaws puav pheej hauv London hu ua Dior: Ib Tug Saib Tshiab, Ib Lub Lag Luam Tshiab 1947 -57; tus V & A tau tuav ntau yam khoom lag luam zam, suav nrog Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier thiab Missoni.

Thiab ntau dua li cov ntawv teev npe ntawm qhov kev nthuav qhia tshiab no, Palmer yuav tsim lwm phau ntawv, tsom mus rau ROM's Dior cov teeb tsa yuav pib thaum ntxov xyoo tom ntej. Cov duab nrog cov duab tua los ntawm tus kws yees duab Dior Laziz Hamani, nws yuav raug hu ua Christian Dior: Keeb Kwm & Modernity, 1947-1957, (ROM Xovxwm 2018) Yog xav paub ntxiv txog kev qhuab qhia series thiab lwm yam kev pab cuam cuam tshuam txog kev ua yeeb yam, mus rau:

rom.on.ca/en/dior